What basic things to knife companies frequently get wrong?

Pocket clips not tall enough and or with a poorly designed lead in. Several times recently, latest was the ZT920 I've been in the store looking at a new model and it either won't clip over the pocket hem on my jeans because the lead in is perfectly flat or if I can get it started over the hemmed edge the height of the clip is too short for the thickness of my jeans.

I can see a smaller folder with a clip designed for the pocket on a pair of dress slacks or suit pants not on a larger folder.
 
The classic example I think of first are all the times that a fixed blade sheath is made of a glass filled nylon, and designed such that the edge of the blade is dulled by the sheath every time it is put in/removed from the sheath. Kabar has done it, Cold Steel has done it, and I'm sure more examples that I'm not thinking of (I think Spyderco but the specific example doesn't come to mind immediately). It just seems like a basic thing and I wonder how it wasn't caught and corrected before they went to production.
I think they knew about it all along, just that they don't give a rat's ass. They must've decided to put the value into the knife and the crappy sheath was just a throw-in. So the reasoning goes something like: if the customer likes the knife, he'll buy it, no matter how crappy the sheath, and if he wants to, he can make or order a custom sheath himself.
 
Those screws that strip way too easily are definitely repeat offenders. They make it so it's harder to fix any other problem, since you can't get the knife together after.
Ah, but those big brains in the executive offices of the big knife companies probably thought that if you stripped the screws, that would make you just buy another new knife from them, (they) hope the same model. So it's a scheme to get people to buy multiple copies of the same knife. And I think it does happen at least half the time.
 
I think they knew about it all along, just that they don't give a rat's ass. They must've decided to put the value into the knife and the crappy sheath was just a throw-in. So the reasoning goes something like: if the customer likes the knife, he'll buy it, no matter how crappy the sheath, and if he wants to, he can make or order a custom sheath himself.
I think that's probably true. Of course these days that means they may complain about it on BF.

I also don't generally want to buy a fixed blade knife without a sheath regardless of whether I can have one made or make one myself.

One of the thinks that adds value to a Condor machete is in fact their leather sheath. Some have complained about them, but in general most seem to like them.
 
I also don't generally want to buy a fixed blade knife without a sheath regardless of whether I can have one made or make one myself.

One of the thinks that adds value to a Condor machete is in fact their leather sheath. Some have complained about them, but in general most seem to like them.
Yes, it can be a big bother to do a sheath. Takes up some time, more than anything else. Most people don't want to do it when they just paid $150 for a knife. I'm going to consider getting more Condor knives. Just got my first knife from Condor, a Japanese style tanto with a wood sheath, I like it a lot.

The best knife + sheath fit I ever got was an AK2 Major from Alfa-Knife. The kydex sheath fits as smooth as silk. I just use thumb pressure to pull out but it still has excellent retention. It goes in just as easy too. Alfa Knife/Damon Lusky is on bladeforums. Good prices too, considering they're essentially custom knives.
 
Fiddleback comes to mind with regard to sheaths.... (unless something has changed). I like their knives and yes you can buy them from retailers that include a sheath. I think they are beginning to be a tad overprice however.
 
Pocket clips not tall enough and or with a poorly designed lead in. Several times recently, latest was the ZT920 I've been in the store looking at a new model and it either won't clip over the pocket hem on my jeans because the lead in is perfectly flat or if I can get it started over the hemmed edge the height of the clip is too short for the thickness of my jeans.

I can see a smaller folder with a clip designed for the pocket on a pair of dress slacks or suit pants not on a larger folder.
I see clips mentioned a few times here and I agree. I might add that some clips such as ones on my ZT's and CRK's give me an issue that I have not heard mentioned. Getting out of a car and the lead edge nicking the steering wheel. On my Camry I have small chunks missing in a few spots where the clip took a bite out of the rubber. To remedy this I suggest all manufacturers comply with my small request to only use wire clips like Spyderco as my Spydies with wire clips are the bees knees.
 
  1. Forget that they have a significant amount of customers from places outside of the US of A and introduce knives which would face restrictions in those areas (like blade lengths > 3.3", AOs, etc)
  2. Forget that most customers (i.e.: not enthusiasts) are very reactive to price; please don't try to sell us something made with 8cr13mov for US$50, thank you very much.
  3. Forget that non-enthusiasts are very unlikely to drop more than US$40 on a knife unless there is a very compelling reason to do so.
 
  1. Lack of sharpening choils.
  2. Thumb studs that get in the way of cutting and sharpening.
  3. Saber grinds with stock that is too thick. Looking at you 0620. 0.16 Blade stock and then adds a low height flat grind (Saber) to have an edge thickness of nearly 0.040....
  4. Sharp thumb holes. Spyderco...
  5. Not having a sharp knife out of the factory.. Custom Knife Factory
  6. Weak detents or overly strong detents. ZT 0620
  7. Putting choils and humps throughout the handle making it only fit to one person. 99% of the production knife world.
  8. Small amount of cutting edge for a large blade. If you want 3" of cutting edge then get a 3" knife. (Strider, WE, Spyderco)
  9. Overpriced knives for cheap/low end materials. Aluminium and CPM-154 -> $300 or Titanium and M390 -> $200....
  10. Improperly designed handles. Choils where choils don't need to be or they're too small.
  11. Pocket bricks. Add internal milling!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you're going to use steel for your liners mill the interior.
  12. Upgrade your steels! Stop charging 200+ for 154CM and CPM-154 when I'm buying contoured 6AL4V Titanium M390 knives for the same price that have better F&F along with QC. XHP or S30V at minimum.
  13. Making the shallowest hollow grind almost a flat grind just to call it a hollow grind. Or making a hollow grind but then leaving the edge folding prybar thick and keeping it shallow.
  14. Soft screws combined with threadlocker. I've stripped ZTs Benchmades and Spydercos because they're using soft screws and then drown the knife in permanent threadlocker....
  15. Using tiny screws! Stop with this T5-T6 garbage. Use T8!
 
13. Making the shallowest hollow grind almost a flat grind just to call it a hollow grind. Or making a hollow grind but then leaving the edge folding prybar thick and keeping it shallow.

I'd argue that shallower hollow grinds are a good thing so long as they're done deep and properly thin at the edge. The shallower and deeper a hollow grind is done, the less of a problem you run into with your deflection "stacking" during the cut and causing the blade to jam/bind in material. Douk-Douks are a good example of a properly done full-height shallow hollow grind. So I know what you're getting at--just clarifying that there are circumstances where that can actually be a good thing. :)
 
Pocket clips. Too tight, not deep enough, too big/noticeable, too flimsy, pushing against a grippy surface to eat pockets...Rarely do I see perfectly done clips, but some seem to be doing them well more often.
Interesting, I would say the opposite for my needs. My new knives always come with clips too loose. Can't stand deep carry. Different strokes. Also, Most folders are simply too thick behind the edge.

Biggest pet peeve- blade centering. I think a lot of the times it's due to poor grinding on the blade itself, but it really takes away from the aesthetics of the finished product.
 
I'd argue that shallower hollow grinds are a good thing so long as they're done deep and properly thin at the edge. The shallower and deeper a hollow grind is done, the less of a problem you run into with your deflection "stacking" during the cut and causing the blade to jam/bind in material. Douk-Douks are a good example of a properly done full-height shallow hollow grind. So I know what you're getting at--just clarifying that there are circumstances where that can actually be a good thing. :)
Well most production companies make them very shallow so they can just call it a "Hollow Grind". There will always be exemptions in the world of anything. An example of what I'm talking about is the CKF Trekoza, they call it a "Hollow Grind" it but only enough to make you see the concave character of an actual Hollow Grind. CKF left the bottom grind too shallow in combination with a thick blade stock (.16) and a short blade height to make a really thick edge. In the end sacrificing a great platform for a unique look.
 
Most of the sheaths; un-fitting kydex, edge killing plastic, rattling, velcro attachment, general non-fitted sheaths, dangerously loose ones, not deep enough, crappy leather.. and some of them butt ugly.
Definitely the Velcro thing, it sucks.
First of all its annoying, and secondly if you carry a knife daily the Velcro can get clogged with lint and hair...eat quickly.
One of the worst things is when there's a snap and Velcro, because then the crappy annoying Velcro is pointless but still there to bother you.
 
Fiddleback comes to mind with regard to sheaths.... (unless something has changed). I like their knives and yes you can buy them from retailers that include a sheath. I think they are beginning to be a tad overprice however.

I see that a few other makers are starting to follow suit. Aftermarket sheaths aren't cheap either. I found a decent leather sheath from an unnamed maker it was nearly $70 for a basic fold over and stitch sheath.
 
Sharpening the WHOLE edge of the blade. Lots of companies refuse to sharpen that last bit of edge. Also, already mentioned earlier, uniform sharpening angles. 20 degree on BOTH sides would be nice and save me the time of fixing it myself.
It seems that hope for uniform sharpening is a pipe dream. If you want to see why watch Spyderco's youtube video that takes you on a shop tour. You will see that the guys are doing it freehand, no clamp setup or anything like that. The only knives that I have seen with matching edges are knives like CRK sometimes Spyderco (there are certain models that the do with one armed robot's). Luckily I enjoy sharpening.
My big pet peeve is how hard to close integral frame locks, the lock bar is so stiff that it is no fun to play with and it hurts the thumb. I also wish that Spyderco would use a lighter gauge spring in the Manix 2's that is another one that is not fun to play. Somehow Benchmade seems to have figured out the Axis lock and they are fun to ply with.
 
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