What belts to use for CPM 10V

A

alexmin

Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Messages
513
Guys,

what belts(coarse and fine) would be good enough for CPM 10V?
What life belt I can expect with CPM 10V?

Thanks,
Alex
 
Butch can probably fill you in a little better, but I'd say you want good ceramics for as much of it as you can. Also, get it VERY close to finished in terms of your final sanding BEFORE heat treat on this steel. Take it to 800 grit, heck you may want to get your handrub started if that's your planned finish. Butch was hand rubbing 10V with diamond stones and it STILL took a long time.

-d
 
buy all the belts you can for after heat treat:barf: . no joke you can grind a 120 grit belt dead in about 2-3 passes of a 6 inch blade Rc2-63.
do all you can before heat treat like deker said. when its annealed (Rc40-45ish) its not to bad to grind

really the best belts i have used on this stuff after heat treat are the gator belts (A300 and A160) i love them and they just keep working till you grind off all the grit you may what to "dress" them now and then to keep them cutting like new i ll have ot post some pictures. BTW 10v does not buff up nice and a 1200-1500 is about as nice as you can get short of water stones
before heat the ceramic belts are just fine
let me know abuot anything other
 
I've not used 10V, so this is a sincere question:
Is a blade made from 10V so good that is is worth that kind of effort?
As compared to the steels I normally use on slipjoints and linerlocked folders...ATS34, 154CM, CPM154, CPMS30V, various Stainless Damascus and high carbon Damascus by Norris, Thomas, Eggerling,and others (I do stock removal, can't forge and keep my neighbors happy)
Obviously Butch either believes it is or has a client who believes it is.
Do you use it for extra heavy duty blades or ?
Thank-You!
 
its not chopper steel thats for sure(least at high hardness) as its got at best about the same toughness as s30v but way more edge holding if i remember right i saw a break down in edge holding for some other steels and it had M2 at like a 4-6 and cpm10v at 90ish D2 was like 2-3

it does not seem to get that wicked sharp 1095 w1 52100 edge but it holds an edge thats close to it for a dam long time. most avg. people would still say that 10v gets plenty sharp (it does). resharpening is most the time best left to the maker or a pro sharpener as it would make most people curse.

i made a few kitchen knives out of it and a hunter or 2 and have one folder in the works with it. if you look at it like its a stronger then ceramic blade but with most the edge holding you should be ok
phil wilson SP? is also using some of these monster CPM steels and maybe he can chime in
 
some kitchen knives
DSC03601sm.jpg

and that hunter is 10v also
DSC03603sm.jpg
 
Yes, I belive 10v is good enough to justify the extra work. I charge at least $100 more for it because it just takes more time and it does use up belts. For me the best balance between cost and the best belt is the Norton Hoggers. You can get them from Tru Grit. I use the 50 grit to put on the initial bevel, and go to a 120 grit 3M Regalite to smooth things out. I usally grind down to about .030 at the edge before heat treat. Heat treat and then go back to a new sharp Hogger to finish the shape. Then 120 again to get out the large scratches and then a Silicon Carbide 220, and then 320. You can leave it at 320 or go to 180 grit SC paper and hand rub a satin finish down to 1000 if you have the energy. The better the finish the better corrosion resistance. I do my own heat treating and have found 63 RC to be the very best overall hardness. I do a final temper after all the finish work is done and believe this is very important for max toughness. Sharpening is not a problem with a finished grind at 0.10 behind the edge and a SC stone. Hope this helps some.. PHIL
 
Guys,

I called Crucible Dallas and they told me that thinner CPM 10V sheets about 1/8 or 5/32" are not available. Lady on the phone offerd me only Hot rolled Sheet .192/.213 thick x 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" wide x 36"

What thickness do you have?

Thanks,
Alex
 
i had some .072 sheet but i have 1/8 x 1.5 i got a way long time ago

stuffs not cheap is it MSC has PM A11 (10v) but im not sure they say who they get it from) and its even more costly
 
They just called me back. They have 0.139"-0.156" x 4" x 36" sheets.
cost $321 + shipping.
 
Alexmin, that is a good size, it will be closer to the .156 in my experience. Who is going to do your heat treat? if you-- then give me a Pmail and maybe I can save you some time and grief. Also noted you are in the Bay Area and if you want to get the material surface ground ( a good Idea) I can also point you to a shop in Oakland... PHIL
 
I'll let the others answer you in a serious and detailed manner. My first thought, when I saw the title was simply, LOTS of them. :)
 
Guys,

can I use dry ice instead of LN for cryogenic treatment of CPM 10V?

Thanks,
Alex
 
not sure how that would work sorry
i have had a Ln dewer since i got my kiln it was one of those if im going to have a kiln i needed a dewer also for the stainless i would be working
 
on a 400 grit hand finish about .030 that way i can clean up the grind post heat treat and be good to go on the edge

also i flat grind im not sure how thick to leave the edge in a hollow grind as there is less steel to "back the edge "
 
I made mine .02 Hope it won't warp during HT. Can I normalize it to lower the chance of warping?

Thanks,
Alex
 
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