What can I use this motor for? Buffer?

Adam Buttry

Adam Buttry

Joined
Nov 10, 2010
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575
A friend of mine gave me this DC motor and speed controller thingy. He said it came off of his family's t-shirt screen printing set-up and that I could have it if I wanted it. Naturally I took it, as it works perfectly fine. The big box has a "speed control" and it even came with a foot switch and another micro switch that will stop the motor when held down. Anyhow, I've been thinking about some way to put it to use in the shop. Since I don't currently have a buffer, could I use this set-up for that? I realize it wouldn't be the ideal buffer, but if I could use it for that purpose, it would be great. If so, what exactly would I need for the output shaft on the motor to connect a buffing wheel? Thanks for your input fellas.

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I don't see variable speed used in buffing and it would be a shame to waste that funchion.





Since you have variable speed, I'd put it on your next grinder

disc, horizontal whichever you do.





but at 1/4 HP, I'm not sure what it's good for.
 
A 1/4 horse variable setup could be used maybe for driving a flex shaft tool... might take some ingenuity.
 
12345678910 said:
but at 1/4 HP, I'm not sure what it's good for.
Click to expand...

That's the thing Count, I can't think of anything other than a buffer that it would be adequate for given the low hp. I did find what I was looking for at K&G.
http://www.knifeandgun.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=60
The investment would be minimal to set it up as a buffer, so I think that's what I'm going to do. The variable speed functionality may never get used at all, but it's already wired up for this set-up so I'm just gonna roll with it. All I would currently need to use it for, is to give a light buff to handles. Should work well for that I hope.
 
I have a similar set up with a buff on one end and a chuck with all sorts of sanding drums for that end. The variable speed is more useful in that capacity, but no need for two chucks, so a smaller buffing wheel found it's way there.
 
A double end mandrel with a pulley in the center driven by that motor would throw 4" to 6" buffing wheels. It could be slowed down nicely for delicate handles.
 
After thinking about this for a bit, I think I'm going to go with Stacy's suggestion. I like that it would allow me to have 2 buffs instead of just one. The biggest thing though, is the clearance around the buff. I would need at least an 8" buff if I attached directly to the motor to have any clearance, and it would still be minimal clearance at that. With 6" buffs on the mandrel set-up, I should have reasonable clearance around the buffs for handles. I don't know why I didn't think of that before, but thanks for suggesting that Stacy.
 
I think you might find it a challenge to run an 8" buff on a 1/4HP motor, especially when you throw an extra pulley into the mix. 6" is better, but still may be a little hefty, especially if you double them up. You might get a way with a light touch, but I imagine that motor is going to heat up pretty quickly.
 
Stacy you are right. Forgot to mention the motor is on a mandrel I do have sheaves for it too. Makes a heck of a knife throwing machine too.
 
I fixed me a buffer a couple weeks ago. Got the shaft from grizzly. Mounted under the table helps with clearance. Thats a 4" wheel on it. 3 phase motor that I had , put male and female ends on the wire and it now shares the vfd with the grinder
 

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A better setup would have been to mount it on the end of the table and place the motor under the table. That would give you 270° clearance and put the motor out of the way. Just cut the existing mount off about 1" behind the bolt holes. Rotate the cut piece 90° and screw and glue it to the table top. Then mount the motor below the table.

By placing a 1 or 2 inch lip on the table top, you will make a raised box from the table, you will have a place to set buffing compound and knives.

A larger buff would work better unless the motor won't handle it.

There are two blaring safety issues that need attention:
1) The power cord either needs to be moved to the other side or placed in a metal conduit. As it is it is in the direct path of a thrown knife blade.
2) That V belt needs a safety guard on the top and side. When the motor is moved to the bottom, the guard can easily be attached.
 
Table is a weathered piece of 2x10, sexy aint it. I just covered most of my shop walls with 3/4 plywood. With a few screws this thing is rock solid.

The reason I mounted it under the table to start with is years ago I had a buffer take a piece of wood away from me and got caught in between the table and the buff and I think it smacked my hands 18 different times before I jerked away. Glad to learn that with a 1" thick piece of wood instead of a blade.

but I like your idea of mounting it on the front better. I plan on this being temporary and when I move it I will mount on front. I do plan on making a cover for the belt. I had not thought about the wire, thanks for pointing that out ( if I zoom out a little you would see the wire passes under it again on the way to the vfd, I am going to fix that). I am also going to try bigger buffs soon.

The 270 degree thing has had me thinking all afternoon though?? I was actually thinking about doing the opposite meaning I was thinking about putting a cover over the top half of the buffing wheel. I was under the impression that the ONLY safe area on the buffs would be between 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock.

Adam sorry for the hijack
 
Spalted said:
Adam sorry for the hijack
Click to expand...

Don't sweat it man, cause I'm not. Open discussion amongst makers is what this forum is all about.

I decided to go with the bench mandrel. If I'm looking at it right, I should be able to loosen the locking collar on one side (right) and slide that pillow block closer to the other (left) leaving the pulley in the center. This should give me a bit longer extension of the shaft on the right side to overhang my bench and I'll just run it with one 6" buff. Hopefully my little motor can handle it. That should work right?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Bench-Mandrels-5-8-Ball-Bearing/G5549
 
Covering part of a buffer is very unsafe. Just learn where to place the blade....and do it right.
 
Well now that I think about it I have never seen a cover on a buffing wheel before , googled it and I could not find a picture of somebody else doing it. Dumb ideas are nothing new to me. :o THANK YOU for teaching

Adam let us know how good it works.
 
I have a 1/2 Hp buffer, which seems really underpowered, but I'm sure it would work. I know they make mounts for buffing wheels that attach directly onto the motors shaft
 
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