Nick, welcome to shop talk! You actually answered your own question when you referred to the blade as mosaic damascus. You see, when you mix steels like 1084 and 15N20 in the same billit, it creates a contrast when etched.
You really should read the stickies before you jump head-first into something as complicated as mosaic damascus. You seem to have a lot of enthusiasm, and that is great, but like I said, do some reading beforehand to keep you from spinning your wheels or even putting yourself in danger. The Count has a great post with a ton of links to resources and posts that is very helpful for someone trying to learn-up. I'll see if I can find a link, or maybe the Count can post it here for your reference.
The good news is that your attempts to date are looking ok. I think with some research, you can be on your way to being a fair smith. That said, your leather work looks pretty darn nice. So you have that going for you....
Happy smithing.
--Nathan
Man, I just knew there must be a simple answer!
I tried to read through those sticky things, but I don't really like reading, and I'd really prefer somebody just tell me what I need to do rather than have to search and stuff. And I plan on disregarding whatever I read and doing whatever strikes my fancy anyway...
Thanks for the good chuckle my friend!

(btw- I was waiting on the arrival of some shop materials before sending your knife, and it all got here yesterday.... make sure the USPS box is totally empty before you throw it away

)
Andy- I never used to care much for this type of blade shape either. A friend/collector worked with me on a project that gave me a new appreciation for the positive attributes it can bring to a fighting knife (especially when the clip is sharp sharp

).
It took me a long time to warm up to mosaic steel as well. I actually started forging it about 10 years ago, but I haven't finished out very many knives made from it until the last couple of years.
Personally, I really love the organic nature of a random pattern, and the chatoyance of a tight, clean ladder pattern. But I have come to be fond of the many variations you can achieve with Ws billets.
The way I do guards like this one, is to fit it up with a flat face. Once it's fit-up, then I lay-out the arc I want, and shape the face with the belt, then the disc sander. It's actually not a true arc, because it remains flat across the ricasso, but with a careful lay-out and shaping, it gives the illusion of being a long, smooth arc. IMHO anyway.
Thanks guys!!!
