What colors are BM 940 and 921?

S

speedfan

Joined
Sep 5, 2003
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I take it the only difference between the Benchmade 940 and 942 is handle color? What shade of green is the 940? I've seen drab, pastel, and everything in between. Anybody here also know photography and can take a picture of one with true color? How about the 921? On Benchmade's own site they show it as pastel and as typical anodized blue.
Thanks,
Richard
 
Hmmm, now I just have to find out if axis lock is ok to get wet, and if those blades get marred from fruit acids.
Richard
 
I've regularly rinsed the axis lock on my Benchmade Ares w/no problem. You might want to get in the habit of applying Tuff Glide or Militec1 on a regular basis to protect the Omega springs that actuate the lock to keep them from corroding.

If I'm not mistaken, both the 921 and 940 have blade made of S30V which is a stain "less" steel. IMO you don't need to worry about fruit acids.
 
Not sure. I think if you conduct a search, others have commented regarding Militec1 and food.
 
militec, tuf-glide are non-toxic according to their claims.
Besides, you probably only need it on the pivot and the lock.
S30V should not stain unless you try to. If you clean and dry it after, it should be fine.
 
940 is 154CM. Very sure, I've got one.

The green is very much like an emerald green colour, some thing like a cooked pea?
 
Well, I e-mailed Miltec. They got back to me (very promptly btw, I e-mail them last night) today saying that it is not food grade and that "it would be best not to cut food that you will eat."
Richard
 
Unless you're in a saltwater environment, I wouldn't worry about oiling the blade. 154CM is supposedly more corrosion resistant than 440C.
 
Yeah, but if I'm getting sugar, citric acid, and tap water on there, it still sounds like a recipe for corrosion. Perhaps the AFCK with it's D2 and BT2 coating is called for? I'm really just looking for a reason. I have a Kershaw Avalanche, and I rather not have something that would be a duplicate of that (i.e. black, grippy, tough, work knife), but if I can come up with some reason for an AFCK, I will.
Richard
 
Why not get a 940BT? That's my EDC and its stood up well to everything including lemons/limes.

While the base color is green, the shade can vary. My 940BT (one of the first made) is close to OD green and has a somewhat slippery grip, while it's companion 941BT is a much darker green and has a noticeably better grip. If the specific shade is important, you need to see them in person to be sure you get what you want.
 
Is there a 940BT or is it the 940SBT? I can't seem to find a 940BT, and I do want something with a non-serrated blade. Also, do you think the coating is necessary? Unless it's something thuggy like an AFCK, I'd like to get an uncoated blade (unless maybe if it's a rainbowed blade, as long as the handle is not).
Richard
 
While I'm asking about a 940, is the reversed part of the reversed tanto sharp just like it is on a regular tanto?
Richard
 
I've never had a problem with the knife not being pointy enough.

I54CM should be plenty corrosion resistant if you rinse off the sugar and citric acid, and then towel it dry. It might pick up a slight patina, but that's no big deal. Hell, 1095 will stain just cutting onions, but it's really only skin deep. Just keep your 940 clean and it'll be fine.
 
What I meant wasn't is the reversed part sharp as opposed to kinda sharp, I meant is it sharpened or is it a false edge. I take it by your response that it is sharpened. Now I have to decide, BM 940 or seki mcusta. What the heck is a walker lock. That will help me decide.
Richard
 
Any corrosion you might get from cutting up oranges is easily taken care of by a light rub with the paste polish of your choice.
 
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