What did we use before the “age of supersteels?”

Another thing about the word “super” is it has been used as both a positive and a derogatory term from as far back as I can find it being used. “I don’t need these fancy new super steels I have XXXX.” Ironically back in the day the “super” steels were 440C, ATS-34, and 154CM which are now the steels occasionally being put in the XXXX.
 
not2sharp said:
When was the last time you had to cut 100 pieces of rope in a hurry?

n2s
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A couple months ago I replaced a 20*30 foot tarp over a sheep shelter. Not in a big hurry, but I wanted to get it done before the next thunderstorm. That was roughly 50 grommets, each tied with two pieces of baling twine. Admittedly not the same as rope, but some people would have used rope.

I did not do it with one knife, though. I took a few extra minutes to compare 8 different knives. The winner was my Victorinox folding serrated paring knife with an orange handle. It probably would not have done so well on all 100 strings.
 
Late 20th Century ?
Good steel was 420 or 440C or 154CM or ATS-34
Before that ?
Steel was a steel. Simply good or bad
No wetting pants over letters and digits on the blade :^)))))
 
We used perfectly fine steels that needed a bit more sharpening. The good part was, we could sharpen those things on just about anything. No need for diamond hones.
A coffee cup worked great.
 
A top knife maker commented, "Custom knife makers may not want to hear this, but about any knife steel can make a fine knife."

I myself prefer steel that is uncomplicated tahtI can work myself without fancy equipment, or treating in foil. 'Custom,' to me means I made it. If I send the steel out for heat treat half of what makes the blade is someone else's work. Few Knife users will appreciate the difference in knife steel abilities. Some might, but not so many, as long as it meets certain standards.

My personal standard was why I got started make my own . My knife has to be able to skin a moose and get the job done without having to stop to sharpen, because it is often 30-50 below zero. I found no factory knife taht could do this and could not afford a good custom so made my own. It did not work at first! Eventually I got to the standards I am happy with. use either 1095 or D2. Depending what I want the knife for. I'm happy with just these 2 steels.

For most knives sold, after about $100 on up to maybe $300 the steel is not the issue, after this we sell for the name and the 'fancy.' The artwork. It is possible for a $300 knife to have the same quality steel as the $5,000 knife. In terms of going out to butcher a moose. So there is a top amount to put into the steel.

Exotic steels are fun, and I can see others might like to focus on experimenting this direction and go for some special steel. Nothing wrong with this. There are some exact uses some top steels will be good for combining qualifies used for just chef knives or as one customer asked me for "A knife to dig arrowheads out fo trees." He wanted a jade handle. Hmmm. In the end he liked a $100 blade he could beat with a hammer. No jade. I loved old crosscut saw blades of L6 for a long time but it stains just by looking at it, not great for kitchen knives. So moved to the D2

I feel few of us could say, "The knife is no good because it is old school steel." I have heard, is it true, that plain cheap 1084 often wins the knife test competitions top knife makers enter. Split the board, cut the rope, like that. Is this true? If so, doesn't this speak for itself? If so this means to me "learn your steel, get to know it and work it right and you'll be fine." Or, why sped 10 times as much for steel if it is not necessary for functionality? I do spend a lot on hand made Damascus billets, but that is for the looks, or name, not performance of finished product.

I admit I cannot afford high end knives by top makers so curious if there really is a huge difference in performance. I use the brass rod test and am ok with 200 stokes usually get 300 sometimes 400 ad now nd then simply quit, I can not dull it. I can usually cut that rod beating on the blade with. hammer without chipping or dulling. Hunters can flex 5 % with 20 pounds torc. I have no idea if this is horrible or amazing, or waht others get or expect. Moslty factory I get get 30 to 50 strokes. I go by making sure I do better then that. The few custom knives I bought in the $500 range did not outperform mine. The type of steel not seat matter.

However I think I saw a video of some top Japanese sword steel that a dropping silk scarf is cut, just being dropped across the blade. So, there may well be a huge vast difference between ordinary knives and the best, a difference I will never be able to afford to test or see. If Jim skinned a buffler with his bowie, I will be content with this I guess. (grin)
 
After reading this post.....I've changed my mind.
I was heading into being a steel snob........
I have some D2 and AUS8 although I was thinking I was settling when buying.
If I like the knife and it's made from good basic steel with a solid history.
Buy the the knife.......use it.....enjoy.
The Ka Bar made with what was a good steel that was available......
became a legend......
 
milesofalaska said:
A top knife maker commented, "Custom knife makers may not want to hear this, but about any knife steel can make a fine knife."
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Well, as long as said knife steel has a decent amount of carbon and is well heat treated, sure. :D

Great post, thanks for sharing. Personally, I’m plenty happy with 1095 or 5160 steel.
 
I do agree we should be happy with what works, feels comfortable for us. Similar to all the styles, calibers, of guns, and getting asked why one is not good enough. Or discussions on the finer points of each. Makes for great conversation. I like 1095 as well. Sometimes brittle for me, so I find 1084 more forgiving when mistakes are made! I love the higher shine on 1095! I got into D2 because I was told it can be a problem steel! Tough on equipment for example. Tough and problem are right up my alley. (smile) I made it my specialty. Reminds me, some of my sled dogs were ones no one else could work with, rough and means. Run em 200 miles at 50 below, and be with them, and they say, "This is more like it." Steel can have kind of a personally. Or else pretending it does helps me put in the time. ha!
 
Hal said:
I'll be 70 years old in a few months.
For as long as I can remember, there's always been some sort of "super steel" being touted.

After a while, they all just run together as meaningless numbers and letters. Right now, I believe there's a 30 something super steel right?
Here I am still stuck on the "old junk" like, AUS 8 and 14c28n (and even that I had to look up to make sure it was correct!).
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I'm getting older and no longer live in the Boreal forest zone, although I have access to it. When I really started to accumulate, AUS8, D2, 1095, the whatever Sandvick steels etc. where my user norms. They still are, although I have been picking up some Cold Steel AUS10. Many years back I bought a spankin' new Spyderco XL Manix in s30V or whatever it was. I eventually traded it off for an ESEE 4. Some didn't see it as an even value trade, but for my uses, it was perfect. I predominantly use AUS8 and 1095 which fit my sharpening skill levels. I wander around some isolated locations with a metal detector. I find pleasure in stopping and boiling some tea or coffee with one of my Emberlit stoves, and (knives or hatchet) of choice. I seem to be a mid level user, with mid level use skills, with mid level tools. I have always been of the mind set that the 1700's fur traders of North America thrived on much simpler steel tools, so my mid level plain Jane stuff is more than adequate for my uses.
 
The original super blade material was flint, so much better than wood.
Then it was obsidian, much sharper than flint.
Then that new-fangled super metal copper. You could actually re-use it if you hit something hard!
Then bronze. Holy smokes, that would hold an edge.
Then iron... blew everything else away.

Sic semper fuit
 
milesofalaska said:
I do agree we should be happy with what works, feels comfortable for us. Similar to all the styles, calibers, of guns, and getting asked why one is not good enough. Or discussions on the finer points of each. Makes for great conversation. I like 1095 as well. Sometimes brittle for me, so I find 1084 more forgiving when mistakes are made! I love the higher shine on 1095! I got into D2 because I was told it can be a problem steel! Tough on equipment for example. Tough and problem are right up my alley. (smile) I made it my specialty. Reminds me, some of my sled dogs were ones no one else could work with, rough and means. Run em 200 miles at 50 below, and be with them, and they say, "This is more like it." Steel can have kind of a personally. Or else pretending it does helps me put in the time. ha!
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That’s a beautiful way of putting it.
 
GregY said:
Same here. I recently attempted to touch up a small D2 fixed blade. Ugh.

My most recent purchases have all been 1095 or 5160.
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I’m plenty happy with my uber cheap Cold Steel SK5 knives, hehe. Has less carbon than 1095 I think.
 
When I first got into knives, ATS-34, D2, 154CM, and BG-42 were peak performance. I remember when S30V changed everything.
 
LIke mentioned above, I remember when ats34 was the top dog. all my 1095 and basic carbon steels work fine, my ability To sharpen is improving and the daily users are far from fancy, more sandvik, some Chinese stainless in my AG Russell knives, etc and they work. still working on my d2 experience. I admit I have bought a few fancier steels to try out like s30V and some cpm 154 because I wanted a good stainless steel that holds a decent edge. What works is still good steel, and trying some other steels more out of curiosity. One of my favorite knives i recently got is my French Aurillac, it is basic Sandvik steel, and I like it fine, does what I want it to do. Others I have are my Manly Wasps in the same steel, they do fine too. Also got one in 8670(Josh Fisher) to try out, and 5160 (Buck 117) because I wanted to see what kind of users they could be and survive some hard work.
 
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To me super-steel stands for ; less sharpening ; longer life span. I do like that.

It's a bit like with cars, there have always been super models, but now a days there seem to be a ton of them.
I guess tradition, sentiment and skills also come into play when we choose the knife/steel we like.

The steel type would never stop me from buying what knife I Iike though.
Old school steel like 440C, ATS34 and 154CM still perform good enough in my book.
 
52100 was developed in the early 1900's and it's every bit as good as any steel you'll ever need. You could legitimately make a strong argument that it's the best steel out there for the average person if edge retention and corrosion resistance aren't priorities
 
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