What do folks think of this potential mod to a Kill Devil Hawk?

BlackKnight86

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Removing the spike at the hump where it starts to descend to the point, to lessen weight a bit and make it less dangerous to the user in very close quarters use? Potential secondary purpose of having a small flat strike area.

Folks who have them...what do you think? Would that negatively affect balance or indexing?

Those who know RMJ's Tomahawks...consider the Shrike, and compare it to the Loggerhead. It's not an exact analogy, since the Loggerhead does appear to have a slight hammer poll; but same general idea.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

BK86
 
Taking the spike down wouldn't shave much weight, and that narrow of a "small flat strike area" would be LESS useful, imho, compared to the more extended "small flat strike area" that the spike already is - remember that the tomahawk is only 3/16" thick maximum. The Loggerhead has a thicker poll for hammering, like you'd find on a CS Trail hawk (OK, not quite like that). You could also instead try the Estwing modification and leave the hammer poll...
 
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I have pondered this since Blade myself, as I don't cherish the thought of catching the spike in my leg, torso, face, etc from a bad bounce while using it in the middle of nowhere.
I may try it on one of my ganza hawks just to find out since there is no micarta handles to balance it the same.
If I do and can get the handle comfortable enough, it will be the one that lives with my chainsaw or on the quad for woods duty.

This is close to how I would mod mine.
35jdv20.jpg


Then I would have the same chopping power at half the weight of my previous chopping king, the TTKZ, which will stay safely at home.
27ymrtz.jpg



Or, I could pair up a KDSH with a B11 for the same weight as my TTKZ and have way more versatility. I do still think they need a hawk with RES-C handles!! :D :thumbup:
158bj9v.jpg

 
I have pondered this since Blade myself, as I don't cherish the thought of catching the spike in my leg, torso, face, etc from a bad bounce while using it in the middle of nowhere.
I may try it on one of my ganza hawks just to find out since there is no micarta handles to balance it the same.
If I do and can get the handle comfortable enough, it will be the one that lives with my chainsaw or on the quad for woods duty.

This is close to how I would mod mine.
35jdv20.jpg

That's exactly what I'm thinking about! Looks great! Now, the question is, do you think it would it negatively affect handling?

Taking the spike down wouldn't shave much weight, and that narrow of a "small flat strike area" would be LESS useful, imho, compared to the more extended "small flat strike area" that the spike already is - remember that the tomahawk is only 3/16" thick maximum. The Loggerhead has a thicker poll for hammering, like you'd find on a CS Trail hawk (OK, not quite like that). You could also instead try the Estwing modification and leave the hammer poll...

Love the Estwing! That's beautiful work!

I understand your points and agree; but safety was my biggest reason. In your opinion, do you think that such a mod would negatively affect the handling?
 
If you don't care for the design, why get one? If the answer is to modify it and make it better, that's fine, but your proposed modification will also change what you can use it for. And if your main reason is to make it more useable for you, then based on your stated use ("woods duty"), why not select something from the Gransfors Bruks line of hatchets or small axes? There are many choices in their product line to suit your needs. And having one of their products myself, I can personally attest that they are top notch in every regard. Don't get me wrong--I love SR stuff. But at a much lower cost, a GB axe is going to be much better suited for "woods duty" than the SR Hawk. GB does not carry a hawk, but if the priority it usefulness and functionality, I would think GB is the winner.
 
Shaving the tail off the hawk spike should not negatively affect the balance.

I have looked at the Rattle Hawk and contemplated blunting the spike edge and beard edge a bit.
 
If you don't care for the design, why get one? If the answer is to modify it and make it better, that's fine, but your proposed modification will also change what you can use it for. And if your main reason is to make it more useable for you, then based on your stated use ("woods duty"), why not select something from the Gransfors Bruks line of hatchets or small axes? There are many choices in their product line to suit your needs. And having one of their products myself, I can personally attest that they are top notch in every regard. Don't get me wrong--I love SR stuff. But at a much lower cost, a GB axe is going to be much better suited for "woods duty" than the SR Hawk. GB does not carry a hawk, but if the priority it usefulness and functionality, I would think GB is the winner.


Do you mean, MY stated use of "very close quarters use"? Or AZTimT's stated use of "woods duty"? ;-)

I love the design. However, when mine come I'll have more than one; and there is a school of thought that in a close quarters combat role, one does not want a spike. I'm not knowledgeable enough to say "yea" or "nay" to that; but it makes sense. So, I figured I'd ask and see what other folks who are more knowledgeable than me think. If if would not negatively affect the handling, I'd still have the same hawk face; just not a spike; so it would cover most of the same functions. My primary intended purpose would be a combat hawk (hence the close quarters use), one that would also work in a general chopping role, if necessary. I would never carry a full-blown ax or hatchet unless my primary intent was to chop wood; usually, I'll have a Silky Saw or Pocket Chain Saw for that.
 
If you don't care for the design, why get one? If the answer is to modify it and make it better, that's fine, but your proposed modification will also change what you can use it for. And if your main reason is to make it more useable for you, then based on your stated use ("woods duty"), why not select something from the Gransfors Bruks line of hatchets or small axes? There are many choices in their product line to suit your needs. And having one of their products myself, I can personally attest that they are top notch in every regard. Don't get me wrong--I love SR stuff. But at a much lower cost, a GB axe is going to be much better suited for "woods duty" than the SR Hawk. GB does not carry a hawk, but if the priority it usefulness and functionality, I would think GB is the winner.

Why did I buy several for me? I know what I want for me better than anyone else.
My needs are a small, lightweight full tang hawk/hatchet that is relatively safe to use yet sturdy enough to hold up for all of my needs with the toughness of SR101.
I care very much about the design with this particular steel and heat treat, but alas, most of us as customers are obviously not on the design team.
So if you want an SR101 hawk, there are three existing choices to work with and from there you can use it as is or improve it for your personal needs to make it truly yours.
The KDSH modified as pictured above will easily meet that need for me which is why I bought two of the non handled ganza version just to get a really cheap (by Bussekin standards) pair of users to mod, one for the quad, one for the tractor.
The one for the tractor may not get as much removed from the spike as it will work pretty well as is for cleaning out the dirt heavy rootballs when removing tree stumps to improve my property, a location not nearly as remote as out in the woods yielding a safety risk offset.
On top of that, I detest wooden handles on my tools as they have too high of a failure rate for me over the length of ownership which more than offsets the higher initial expense for a tool I only have to buy once.
My handles on my axes, shovels, rakes, picks, etc are all fiberglass or resin for the same reason, which have served me very well, but my toughest sledgehammer is steel pipe welded to a toprail chunk of railroad track, ie full tang.


Shaving the tail off the hawk spike should not negatively affect the balance.

I have looked at the Rattle Hawk and contemplated blunting the spike edge and beard edge a bit.

I agree on the weight and as far as the RH mod goes I just don't want to mod one that expensive if the cheaper one is just as effective.
I think I need to do a direct user comparison of both to help folks figure out the pros and cons of both really are.
I may find out I'm just full of crap, :p or my instincts may be right on the money. :eek:
 
Thanks guys for your answers. They help me to understand better not just where you guys are coming from, but also help me to understand the possibilities for this design a little better. I don't have one right now, but have been toying with the idea of picking one up. And while I love Swamp Rat stuff, I am at a point where I would need to justify to myself at least why I would need a hawk given other things that may be more suitable for me. I'm not sure I'm able to quite justify one of these yet, but we'll see what tomorrow brings.

Again, thanks for your thoughts.
 
[snip]....which is why I bought two of the non handled ganza version......[snip]

Same here! I got one too....that's the one I'll possibly mod.


Also, I just thought of another question, if I may....anyone here ever hand saw SR101, if they needed to take off a piece? Just a straight cut through? I imagine it's pretty difficult; but is it doable? I wouldn't have to worry about temper or heat issues, then....I mean, you can't generate enough heat to ruin a temper with a hand tool, right? Then, all I'd have to do is smooth the edges around the cut. That's what I ended up doing with a Cold Steel Pole Ax (yes, I know....nowhere NEAR the same steel); and it turned out to be an easy mod. Like I said, I imagine SR101 would give me a heck of a lot more trouble....but if it's possible it would be a very basic mod that anyone could do.

Thanks, guys!

BK86
 
For CQB, you are suggesting that a 'no spike' option would be better for you.
Okay. Go out and get a different hawk of a lower cost and see if you can get the hawk made that way.
The hawk as is, is designed with specific and general uses in mind. It is also balanced in that way it is made.

I make several hawks for different uses in general and the CQB hawk HAS a spike in a different shape. There is no problem with the spike in actual use in CQB. If used properly, a rebound strike is not an issue at all. what is important is to train proper use and learn how to use the tool properly. Imagine you cutting off your spike and then using it for a strike when you get a rebound and instead of the spike you get the cutting edge to your forehead. Training is important. Handle length is a preference and in my CQB hawk it is under 12"...this is not a problem though. Those that carry these, actually carry them on their person when on patrol so you want them a bit more compact. Getting beat to death with a long handle fwapping you all day long is not fun. Having the same handle 'tied' down is also not ideal when you need it quickly.
 
For CQB, you are suggesting that a 'no spike' option would be better for you.
Okay. Go out and get a different hawk of a lower cost and see if you can get the hawk made that way.
The hawk as is, is designed with specific and general uses in mind. It is also balanced in that way it is made.

I make several hawks for different uses in general and the CQB hawk HAS a spike in a different shape. There is no problem with the spike in actual use in CQB. If used properly, a rebound strike is not an issue at all. what is important is to train proper use and learn how to use the tool properly. Imagine you cutting off your spike and then using it for a strike when you get a rebound and instead of the spike you get the cutting edge to your forehead. Training is important. Handle length is a preference and in my CQB hawk it is under 12"...this is not a problem though. Those that carry these, actually carry them on their person when on patrol so you want them a bit more compact. Getting beat to death with a long handle fwapping you all day long is not fun. Having the same handle 'tied' down is also not ideal when you need it quickly.

Thanks for your inputs! Just to clarify, though, I didn't say one way or the other would be better; just that the things I've heard made sense. The only real way to test would be to do so with two identical hawks, one with a spike and one without. Otherwise, you've got other variables to consider; so how would you know that it was the lack or presence of a spike that was making the difference?

Just so you know, I've got over 20 hawks, ranging from Cold Steel models to one of Laci Szabo's Combat Hawks. Some have spikes, some do not. I also have the McLemore book "The Fighting Tomahawk". Not to disrespect you or your experience, but please don't think I'm asking this question just because I want to chop up a $200+ tomahawk.

Your specific point, as to the design and balance of the KDH, is the exact basis of my question. That is the only thing that would matter in this exercise. I have no desire to ruin a perfectly good hawk; however I have no problem doing a reasonable mod in the pursuit of learning. So, when you said what you said about it, do you feel in your experience that my mod would negatively affect balance and indexing?

Again, thanks so much for your inputs; they were very helpful! If I may ask, do you sell the hawks you make, and do you have a website? If you do, and you don't mind giving it out, could I please have it? I'd love to see your work!

Thanks!

BK86
 
WOW! I never expected someone else to have this idea. I considered it ever since I saw it on the Ganza list. I think right now I will probably use it before I think much more about cutting off the spike.

I love a good poll on a good wood-hafted tomahawk. As for using the KDSH to hammer something, I always turn this style hawk sideways or use the top to hammer in stakes.
 
I understand your points and agree; but safety was my biggest reason. In your opinion, do you think that such a mod would negatively affect the handling?
... I didn't say one way or the other would be better; just that the things I've heard made sense. The only real way to test would be to do so with two identical hawks, one with a spike and one without. Otherwise, you've got other variables to consider; so how would you know that it was the lack or presence of a spike that was making the difference?

... do you feel in your experience that my mod would negatively affect balance and indexing?

...I love a good poll on a good wood-hafted tomahawk. As for using the KDSH to hammer something, I always turn this style hawk sideways or use the top to hammer in stakes.

The KDSH was designed WITH a spike, similar to how the Shrike, Kestrel, Winkler hawks, and most every "combat" hawk on the market. Why? Because the spike is what makes the tool combat effective, designed for deep-piercing armor/helmet/skull penetration. The RH's spike and beard are more clearly delineated to this purpose, but in both tools the blade is not expected to be an effective weapon against armored targets, it is more of a breaching/general purpose tool, to be used the same (and only as effectively) as any other axe/hatchet/hawk. That is why I posted the the Estwing, turning an entirely utilitarian tool (breaching & pounding) into something more combat-oriented by ADDING the piercing beard and spike. Taking away the spike would certainly make the tool safer, i.e. less harmful, which is precisely contrary to the intent of a weapon. Removing the spike for your own safety also makes it more difficult to inflict significant harm on a target.

IF you want a more effective weapon, you want the spike. Period.

If you want an SR101 general purpose axe that is safer for the user, you may want to round off the chisel-pommel as well as the spike, but be aware that doing so reduces the tool's combat effectiveness. You're neutering your hawk. *shrug*

Removing the spike should not significantly negatively effect any other aspect of the tool in regard to balance and indexing - the hawk is already blade-heavy as most are that lack a heavy poll to maintain center-line balance (a notable exception is the cKc medium hatchet). Removing the spike will shift the longitude-balance point a little further to handle, which will not require much adjustment to maintain the same accuracy when throwing.

To BillyJoeBobJim, again keep in mind that the KDSH is only 3/16" - not much thickness for effective hammering unless you use the flat as suggested or are only tapping the target. Perhaps inverting the hawk and hammering with a micarta-scaled shaft would be more effective, but it might chip the micarta.
 
The KDSH was designed WITH a spike, similar to how the Shrike, Kestrel, Winkler hawks, and most every "combat" hawk on the market. Why? Because the spike is what makes the tool combat effective, designed for deep-piercing armor/helmet/skull penetration. The RH's spike and beard are more clearly delineated to this purpose, but in both tools the blade is not expected to be an effective weapon against armored targets, it is more of a breaching/general purpose tool, to be used the same (and only as effectively) as any other axe/hatchet/hawk. That is why I posted the the Estwing, turning an entirely utilitarian tool (breaching & pounding) into something more combat-oriented by ADDING the piercing beard and spike. Taking away the spike would certainly make the tool safer, i.e. less harmful, which is precisely contrary to the intent of a weapon. Removing the spike for your own safety also makes it more difficult to inflict significant harm on a target.

IF you want a more effective weapon, you want the spike. Period.

If you want an SR101 general purpose axe that is safer for the user, you may want to round off the chisel-pommel as well as the spike, but be aware that doing so reduces the tool's combat effectiveness. You're neutering your hawk. *shrug*

Removing the spike should not significantly negatively effect any other aspect of the tool in regard to balance and indexing - the hawk is already blade-heavy as most are that lack a heavy poll to maintain center-line balance (a notable exception is the cKc medium hatchet). Removing the spike will shift the longitude-balance point a little further to handle, which will not require much adjustment to maintain the same accuracy when throwing.

To BillyJoeBobJim, again keep in mind that the KDSH is only 3/16" - not much thickness for effective hammering unless you use the flat as suggested or are only tapping the target. Perhaps inverting the hawk and hammering with a micarta-scaled shaft would be more effective, but it might chip the micarta.

"Neutering"? Don't you think that's maybe a bit overblown?

"Combat" does not have to mean, "Combat in Iraq". Not every opponent you may encounter will be wearing Kevlar. If you do not anticipate an armored target, then it is not unreasonable to believe you probably won't need a spike. The possibility of increased maneuverability around the face and head brought on by the absence of a spike can be a reasonable, worthwhile tradeoff. And that's just the combat aspect; let's not forget the general purpose, and the concerns that AZTimT brought up using the hawk for woods work. Also, with respect to the Estwing, as one of the posters in the other forum said, "If you hit somebody in the face or chest with an Estwing shake ax (I think that's what it is) their race is run." For any bladed impact weapon of this sort, the level of sensitivity to design change does not appear to be so sensitive that small modifications would completely ruin it's usefulness. So I don't know if "neutering" is the best choice of words to use.

All things are a compromise. I am aware of the cons of removing the spike. I am also aware of the pros. And I am aware of the tradeoffs. That's why I bought more than one. I'll have one with a spike and, maybe, one without, if I decide to go ahead.

Thank you for your thoughts on balance and indexing; those are very helpful!
 
"Neutering"? Don't you think that's maybe a bit overblown?

"Combat" does not have to mean, "Combat in Iraq". Not every opponent you may encounter will be wearing Kevlar. If you do not anticipate an armored target, then it is not unreasonable to believe you probably won't need a spike. The possibility of increased maneuverability around the face and head brought on by the absence of a spike can be a reasonable, worthwhile tradeoff. And that's just the combat aspect; let's not forget the general purpose, and the concerns that AZTimT brought up using the hawk for woods work. Also, with respect to the Estwing, as one of the posters in the other forum said, "If you hit somebody in the face or chest with an Estwing shake ax (I think that's what it is) their race is run." For any bladed impact weapon of this sort, the level of sensitivity to design change does not appear to be so sensitive that small modifications would completely ruin it's usefulness. So I don't know if "neutering" is the best choice of words to use.

All things are a compromise. I am aware of the cons of removing the spike. I am also aware of the pros. And I am aware of the tradeoffs. That's why I bought more than one. I'll have one with a spike and, maybe, one without, if I decide to go ahead.

Thank you for your thoughts on balance and indexing; those are very helpful!
I am glad to be helpful and glad that you are aware of the trade-off...

But I think that "neutering" is a perfect description. By removing the spike you eliminate in large part the penetration capabilities of the weapon, its most effective asset. It doesn't render it harmless, no, but it does render it significantly less harmful.

I don't mean to come off as an ass, not trying to tell you what you can and cannot do with what is yours, just trying to paint clear pictures of what you'll get with the mod. You probably already know all this, but since the idea is for this modded hawk to be combat functional...

Penetration is the key to delivering significant damage, i.e. a death blow, to a target, be it an unarmored person or a car tire or a structure.
Targets generally have a "skin" of some sort, be it armor or rubber or leather or concrete, etc. Rubber, sheet metal, & skin are somewhat flexible. It is not as easy to flatten a tire with a wide chopping blade compared to a narrow spike. It is not as easy to cut through sheet metal with one either. The wide blade distributes the force over a larger area of medium to be cut. The spike focuses all that force into a tiny spot, achieving penetration MUCH more easily. Watch that KDSH demo-video to help clarify this.
Beyond the skin, living targets have flesh and bone protecting vital organs. To dismember a target requires cutting through both - no mean task, especially since those limbs are a small target that may be moving quite rapidly. Also dismemberment does not ensure fatality. To achieve fatality requires compromising a vital organ or major vesicle. The gut is an unprotected target but is not a fatal blow (at least not quickly), despite what one may see in television. Major vesicles are not easy to hit on a moving target, often being obstructed by an appendage (bone & muscle). The vital organs (head, torso) are always protected by bones which are notoriously difficult to cut through.
Striking a skull will be deadly if the bone is either crushed or penetrated, so long as sufficient damage is inflicted on vital underlying tissue (brain). But if the brain is not sufficiently damaged, a blow to any part of the head is relatively non-lethal. You need to have penetration. If you hit a person in the face, you have to force bone or another object into their brain in order to induce death - NOT easy, especially since the head is mobile rather than fixed in place. A strike to the face sends the head backward - you need to achieve penetration before that happens. Skulls are hard and round. A wide flat blade is easier to deflect along the surface (glancing blow) or absorb (larger surface area) than a spike whose geometry puts all that force into a tiny point. Your axe-blade will be less effective against a skull for the same reason it will be less effective against a helmet. That's a LOT of hard bone to cut through, requiring a LOT of force. And because it is harder for the axe blade to gain purchase, the target could shift its head/face and minimize the damage (assuming a live target that is moving or trying to avoid the blow) something that it could not do with a spike already lodged inside the bone. If you hit a person in the face with this axe, you'd better make sure that it went deep enough. Otherwise, no, the race is not run. A face strike with an axe blade does not guarantee death. Neither does a spike, but at least the penetration is there. And that's all I am trying to make clear. If you expect to kill people by chopping at their skulls, you need a lot of force, a slower target, and probably more than one hit. The spike will make it a lot easier.

Striking the chest, the difference is more dramatic. The vital organs in a mammalian torso are surrounded by skin, muscle, and then a cage of hard bone. ALL must be penetrated to achieve an effective blow, and the blade must then penetrate deep enough to cut/tear through the organs themselves. Ribs are very good at deflecting damage, and a wide blade does not easily fit between them so it must cut or break through multiple ribs to achieve the target organ. Again that's a lot of hard bone, and it's even harder to accomplish on a moving target. A poor strike will deliver a shallow glancing blow, maybe break some ribs, not a fatal hit. Again, race not run. The spike, like a sword/knife tip, doesn't need to cut through the bone, it instead slides or glances between, achieving maximum penetration, fatality. This requires much less force and is not much more difficult on a moving target since penetration is achieved so easily/quickly.

So again, all I am trying to make clear is that the axe blade is not as effective as a weapon, much less effective than people probably realize. Is an axe, ANY axe, still capable of being used as a weapon? Yes. But it's like comparing an ulu to a dagger. *shrug*


I am curious what CQB maneuverability advantage do you see with the spike removed? If you lack the space to maneuver around the spike, then you lack the space to generate a swing of sufficient force to cause much damage with the blade. In contrast, the spike requires less generation of force than the blade in order to incur damage, so you might be better off removing the blade and sharpening the spike, but that really messes with the tool's usefulness. RMJ's hawks aim to increase portability and maneuverability by reducing the handle length, something to think about.


I kindof wonder if this should go to prac/tac or general, maybe attract Edwood7's input? He's the only verified "operator" I know of on here, and I know that he uses hawks...
 
I am glad to be helpful and glad that you are aware of the trade-off...

But I think that "neutering" is a perfect description. By removing the spike you eliminate in large part the penetration capabilities of the weapon, its most effective asset. It doesn't render it harmless, no, but it does render it significantly less harmful.

I don't mean to come off as an ass, not trying to tell you what you can and cannot do with what is yours, just trying to paint clear pictures of what you'll get with the mod. You probably already know all this, but since the idea is for this modded hawk to be combat functional...

Penetration is the key to delivering significant damage, i.e. a death blow, to a target, be it an unarmored person or a car tire or a structure.
Targets generally have a "skin" of some sort, be it armor or rubber or leather or concrete, etc. Rubber, sheet metal, & skin are somewhat flexible. It is not as easy to flatten a tire with a wide chopping blade compared to a narrow spike. It is not as easy to cut through sheet metal with one either. The wide blade distributes the force over a larger area of medium to be cut. The spike focuses all that force into a tiny spot, achieving penetration MUCH more easily. Watch that KDSH demo-video to help clarify this.
Beyond the skin, living targets have flesh and bone protecting vital organs. To dismember a target requires cutting through both - no mean task, especially since those limbs are a small target that may be moving quite rapidly. Also dismemberment does not ensure fatality. To achieve fatality requires compromising a vital organ or major vesicle. The gut is an unprotected target but is not a fatal blow (at least not quickly), despite what one may see in television. Major vesicles are not easy to hit on a moving target, often being obstructed by an appendage (bone & muscle). The vital organs (head, torso) are always protected by bones which are notoriously difficult to cut through.
Striking a skull will be deadly if the bone is either crushed or penetrated, so long as sufficient damage is inflicted on vital underlying tissue (brain). But if the brain is not sufficiently damaged, a blow to any part of the head is relatively non-lethal. You need to have penetration. If you hit a person in the face, you have to force bone or another object into their brain in order to induce death - NOT easy, especially since the head is mobile rather than fixed in place. A strike to the face sends the head backward - you need to achieve penetration before that happens. Skulls are hard and round. A wide flat blade is easier to deflect along the surface (glancing blow) or absorb (larger surface area) than a spike whose geometry puts all that force into a tiny point. Your axe-blade will be less effective against a skull for the same reason it will be less effective against a helmet. That's a LOT of hard bone to cut through, requiring a LOT of force. And because it is harder for the axe blade to gain purchase, the target could shift its head/face and minimize the damage (assuming a live target that is moving or trying to avoid the blow) something that it could not do with a spike already lodged inside the bone. If you hit a person in the face with this axe, you'd better make sure that it went deep enough. Otherwise, no, the race is not run. A face strike with an axe blade does not guarantee death. Neither does a spike, but at least the penetration is there. And that's all I am trying to make clear. If you expect to kill people by chopping at their skulls, you need a lot of force, a slower target, and probably more than one hit. The spike will make it a lot easier.

Striking the chest, the difference is more dramatic. The vital organs in a mammalian torso are surrounded by skin, muscle, and then a cage of hard bone. ALL must be penetrated to achieve an effective blow, and the blade must then penetrate deep enough to cut/tear through the organs themselves. Ribs are very good at deflecting damage, and a wide blade does not easily fit between them so it must cut or break through multiple ribs to achieve the target organ. Again that's a lot of hard bone, and it's even harder to accomplish on a moving target. A poor strike will deliver a shallow glancing blow, maybe break some ribs, not a fatal hit. Again, race not run. The spike, like a sword/knife tip, doesn't need to cut through the bone, it instead slides or glances between, achieving maximum penetration, fatality. This requires much less force and is not much more difficult on a moving target since penetration is achieved so easily/quickly.

So again, all I am trying to make clear is that the axe blade is not as effective as a weapon, much less effective than people probably realize. Is an axe, ANY axe, still capable of being used as a weapon? Yes. But it's like comparing an ulu to a dagger. *shrug*


I am curious what CQB maneuverability advantage do you see with the spike removed? If you lack the space to maneuver around the spike, then you lack the space to generate a swing of sufficient force to cause much damage with the blade. In contrast, the spike requires less generation of force than the blade in order to incur damage, so you might be better off removing the blade and sharpening the spike, but that really messes with the tool's usefulness. RMJ's hawks aim to increase portability and maneuverability by reducing the handle length, something to think about.


I kindof wonder if this should go to prac/tac or general, maybe attract Edwood7's input? He's the only verified "operator" I know of on here, and I know that he uses hawks...

That's an excellent argument...to be honest, I don't know what degree of CQB manueverability increase I would get; I don't have the experience to say. I very well could be wrong about this mod.

I'll tell you where it came from....I discussed them at length with Laci Szabo, since his Combat Hawk does not have a spike. He was the one making the argument, not just about bad strikes and the possibility of injuring oneself, but also the possibility that an opponent could drive the hawk back at you, spike first. He certainly made a good argument, too....but again, I'm not in a position of experience to be able to say.

I would like to see Edwood7's opinion. I know he likes the front spike on the Winkler Hawk he used to stop that guy from harming his teammate, for the exact reasoning you were saying - increased penetration, especially of armored targets. On the other hand, though, is that due to the more modern circumstances one might encounter? Are we seeing the return of a war hammer style, since we've seen the return of wearable armor on the foot soldier? It'd also be nice if we could get Laci's inputs in light of Edwood's experiences and the points you raise...as I recall, he does now offer a wooden poll hawk with a small spike.

Can I move it; or does this need a mod?
 
I think altering the hawk would also change the ballance. That said, I experiment on a lot of my own stuff as well as others. I like hawks. They are great at creating more impact force than any knife could. I have seen people using very long handled hawks 20" or more effectively for close quarters. That said, my teacher in Japan for sword drawing said many times in history, a swordsman got a normal longsword stuck in the doorframe or ceiling because he never trained in the house drawing and cutting. By all means, if you want to do this, try it! I even suggest using it as a passaround for some of the hawk nuts to try out. If you have the means to do this and not mind the chance it would be ruined then go ahead. Especially if you have another like it to compare it to. I do that all the time. My mods "dissapear" usually. Dunno why. It won't totally mess it up I guess to mod the thing. Take a little at a time and check as you go without damaging the heat treat. Good luck.
Edwood might have some good input as well. I might be able to find half a dozen more for you to ask but they aren't on here.
 
I think by modding your hawk like pic above you will be removing the trailing mass which will downgrade the blade side. However if you flip it around and swing hammer poll first it will feel very balanced now with all the weight trailing. However I could be completely wrong with this being a short handled tool to begin with where mass won't be felt as much.

I still feel like the small hammer poll you will be leaving will still penetrate being so small and narrow unlike a Coldsteel trailhawk head. I don't know if these are thru hardened or diff. tempered but i think it would still function as a hammer on nails but not as effective as true hammer with such a small striking surface. In a combat role I think it would still be effective unless you are facing armored opponents all the time.
 
I think by modding your hawk like pic above you will be removing the trailing mass which will downgrade the blade side. However if you flip it around and swing hammer poll first it will feel very balanced now with all the weight trailing. However I could be completely wrong with this being a short handled tool to begin with where mass won't be felt as much.

I still feel like the small hammer poll you will be leaving will still penetrate being so small and narrow unlike a Coldsteel trailhawk head. I don't know if these are thru hardened or diff. tempered but i think it would still function as a hammer on nails but not as effective as true hammer with such a small striking surface. In a combat role I think it would still be effective unless you are facing armored opponents all the time.

:confused:
I am trying to figure out where these notions come from...

1) "Trailing mass" - Why would this be useful or advantageous??? Every Khukuri, kukri-shaped-object, and nearly every tomahawk and axe is blade heavy, many hammers as well, i.e. the weight leads, not follows, the swing. A tail-heavy tool where the weight trails would be very UNbalanced, the late momentum of the trailing weight would make the tool want to flip out of the swinger's hand. Experiment IRL and experience this. Trailing-weight = bad balance. But the best axes (and tomahawks too imho) are balanced laterally so that head & poll are near equal, maximizing control for the user so that they handle more like a large knife or sword.

2) It's not the shortness of the handle that makes the modification less noticeable, it's the ratio of the mass of the entire tool to the mass that might be removed, ~0.5in^3, ~2oz to ~22.5oz. That amount wouldn't really be felt on a longer handle either.

3) a 1" long x 1" tall x 0.1875" thick hammer is MUCH less effective than a 1" thick or even 0.75" thick hammer-head, so much so that it'd be ridiculous in practice. Please understand how thin 0.1875" is - even hammering with a 1/4" spine is ridiculous, you'd be much more likely to use the wider flat of the blade to hammer effectively. Again, go out and give this a try.

4) An unsharpened 3/16" thick 1" x 1" hammer is NOT a penetration tool, not nearly "so small and narrow", it's a blunt instrument. Again, go out and try it with something else. For example, whack some objects with the spine of a 3/16" knife. Penetration is terrible, you'll bruise an opponents naked skin but that is all unless the target is static and the force is VERY high. On a human head, remember that the skull is an average ~1/4" thick inflexible bone that is notoriously difficult to penetrate, surrounded by a layer of hair and skin, and the soft, flexible brain beneath is floating in CSF surrounded by layers of extra shock-absorbant material. Blunt-force trauma to the skull can certainly be fatal, but to induce instant fatality requires a tremendous force, otherwise it requires the follow-up formation of a hematoma, etc. to maintain/increase pressure on the brain. Skull penetration can certainly be fatal, but only if sufficient damage is done to the brain within. Penetrating through the hair, skin, 1/4" bone, and having enough force to then penetrate the cushioning and impale the brain itself... with a blunt 3/16" x 1" wide x 1" deep piece of steel swung from the hand at a moving target?? Good luck!!! (you'll need it, because physics is against you)
 
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