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What do you look for in a knife?
- Thread starter Cosmic Superchunk
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2008
- Messages
- 3,654
Oh, sweet, a blast from the past!
Got me thinking about what I look for in a knife...Hard to define, really. Some of mine are sleek and curvy, others are kind of lumpy looking with big holes in the blades, others are blacked-out and serrated, while some are teeny tiny and inconspicuous.
Got me thinking about what I look for in a knife...Hard to define, really. Some of mine are sleek and curvy, others are kind of lumpy looking with big holes in the blades, others are blacked-out and serrated, while some are teeny tiny and inconspicuous.
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2011
- Messages
- 102
I look for :
1. Fit and Feel
2. proper size for the job intended
3. durability
4. and How easy is for me to sharpen it. if I can't keep it sharp it's just a useless bar of steel to me.
1. Fit and Feel
2. proper size for the job intended
3. durability
4. and How easy is for me to sharpen it. if I can't keep it sharp it's just a useless bar of steel to me.
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2007
- Messages
- 1,007
The most important thing for me is the look of the knife. If I don't get some kind of a buzz just from the knife design ,I don't really care how great a knife it objectively is. I'm always a bit startled by posts on this forum ,asking others what kind of knife the poster should buy. Although if someone is buying a knife strictly for practical purposes, and has no aesthetic interest in the knife ,I guess it makes sense.
Although I'm a design oriented buyer, I'm not entirely immune to steel snobbery. My local knife store has the Hibbens "Old West Toothpick" from the movie "The Expendables", available for just over $100. I love the design but the blade is Aus 6. Nevertheless if it came with a kydex sheath, I think I'd buy it.
And if course price is a concern; I really like the CS Natchez Bowie but I wasn't about to drop $450.00 for the San Mai version, but I'm definitely snapping up the cheaper SK5 version as soon as it's released. In my view it's better than the expensive model ,because it comes with a kydex sheath and I could actually carry it with a shoulder harness.
Although I'm a design oriented buyer, I'm not entirely immune to steel snobbery. My local knife store has the Hibbens "Old West Toothpick" from the movie "The Expendables", available for just over $100. I love the design but the blade is Aus 6. Nevertheless if it came with a kydex sheath, I think I'd buy it.
And if course price is a concern; I really like the CS Natchez Bowie but I wasn't about to drop $450.00 for the San Mai version, but I'm definitely snapping up the cheaper SK5 version as soon as it's released. In my view it's better than the expensive model ,because it comes with a kydex sheath and I could actually carry it with a shoulder harness.
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2008
- Messages
- 5,911
Quality is my primary objective - I like lots of different knives and I'm flexible on steel if it's not mystery steel. I prefer AUS8 and up. Apart from that, if I like the look of the knife, it's built well and not an illegal copy, then I might own it.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2006
- Messages
- 1,838
It changes as the years go by - I have responded to a few of these threads over the last 5 years and I think every time I did I said something different from the last time.
I know I like slicing over sharpened prybar, so I try to stay away from the knives that are thick bladed and thick scales.
Ergos is important - if the jimping is harsh or the knife has hot spots I won't carry it.
I try to research and watch videos before buying - especially when the prices get north of $300.
I like unique knives - so special materials, grinds, locks or blade steel always catch my attention.
Customer Service - I have been refining what I buy lately, so making sure the company will be around to service the knife is important.
Steel isn't real high on the priority list - I won't buy mystery steel or blades where others have experienced problems.
I will say that I have bought and sold knives over the years that at the time I didn't appreciate, only to buy them again later once I realized the virtues that the knife had to offer.
It's a sickness I tell you - a sickness.
I know I like slicing over sharpened prybar, so I try to stay away from the knives that are thick bladed and thick scales.
Ergos is important - if the jimping is harsh or the knife has hot spots I won't carry it.
I try to research and watch videos before buying - especially when the prices get north of $300.
I like unique knives - so special materials, grinds, locks or blade steel always catch my attention.
Customer Service - I have been refining what I buy lately, so making sure the company will be around to service the knife is important.
Steel isn't real high on the priority list - I won't buy mystery steel or blades where others have experienced problems.
I will say that I have bought and sold knives over the years that at the time I didn't appreciate, only to buy them again later once I realized the virtues that the knife had to offer.
It's a sickness I tell you - a sickness.
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2006
- Messages
- 7,132
I primarily go for looks. Genuine, natural materials on a sleek frame are features for me. Looks includes the blade shape as well. Three of my favorite shapes are the Buck 110, the Spyderco Native and the SOG Aegis.
Second would be ergonomics. If the knife is not comfortable in hand, then what is the point? Once again, the Buck 110 is the most comfortable line I own.
Third is the steel. Anything over and including 420HC is fine. I have Buck 110s' in 420HC, 425M, 440C, S30V, CPM-154 and BG-42. All will do the job.
Fourth is customer service. If a company isn't willing to 'have my back' with their product, I just won't own it.
For me, it is not enough that the tool performs well, it has to look good doing it.
Second would be ergonomics. If the knife is not comfortable in hand, then what is the point? Once again, the Buck 110 is the most comfortable line I own.
Third is the steel. Anything over and including 420HC is fine. I have Buck 110s' in 420HC, 425M, 440C, S30V, CPM-154 and BG-42. All will do the job.
Fourth is customer service. If a company isn't willing to 'have my back' with their product, I just won't own it.
For me, it is not enough that the tool performs well, it has to look good doing it.
I go by this order usually:
Looks-face it like an ugly woman you gotta sleep with her so you choose an at least decent looker (I should hope)
Ergos-if it feels like a dang brick or has all kinds of sharp corners it just isn't going to do.
Price-in general if I know the company I'm ok with a budget model,but if it's a new one...I tend to shy away from the cheap stuff until I know they do good (else you may just wind up with overpriced Paki junk)
Blade style-don't care for partial serrations or a "American tanto" type so I avoid those.
Edge type-I like a regular V grind so I can actually sharpen the thing,convex and other kinds I run away from,the chisel grind is ok if it's set up for a right handed user (I'm-you guessed it,right handed),if not it suuuucks.
Looks-face it like an ugly woman you gotta sleep with her so you choose an at least decent looker (I should hope)
Ergos-if it feels like a dang brick or has all kinds of sharp corners it just isn't going to do.
Price-in general if I know the company I'm ok with a budget model,but if it's a new one...I tend to shy away from the cheap stuff until I know they do good (else you may just wind up with overpriced Paki junk)
Blade style-don't care for partial serrations or a "American tanto" type so I avoid those.
Edge type-I like a regular V grind so I can actually sharpen the thing,convex and other kinds I run away from,the chisel grind is ok if it's set up for a right handed user (I'm-you guessed it,right handed),if not it suuuucks.
