What Do You Lube Your Buck Knives With?

BuckShack said:
I have an 8 oz plastic bottle of Williamsville Butcherblock Oil. My hardware store recommended it for the black walnut handles on a knife I was reconditioning. It says its a safe mineral oil to protect wood in contact with water and food, and that it's non-hazardous, odorless and tasteless. That's when the light bulb went off and I realized I better stop using Rem Oil (or others) on knives I use for food processing.
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I'm of the same thinking on that.
 
Pokt got it correct. That's what I was meaning a vistors message. Yes, Gold members get access to the private. DM
 
Recently I've been using Lucas Gun Oil on my folders. I use it very sparingly and wipe off the excess. I also have Mil-Comm TW25B grease. Both works great.
 
I use Rem Oil on everything except my autos. They get a dab of Quick Release.
 
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I cut a lot of fruit with mine so I use Vaseline Petroleum Jelly. I used to use mineral oil, but Vaseline, which is mineral oil plus paraffin, stays with the knife better.
 
Don't oil them often but usually just 3in1 oil. Used it since I was a kid. I just wipe the blade on my pant leg before and after I use it of food. Some old habits are hard to break.
 
I have an oil can in the garage that I mix 50/50 of 10w30 and ATF. I put a drop or two where my blade pivots, and it stays nice and smooth.
 
My food knives are not in my collection so for the collection knives, I use Z-MAX which the metal actually absorbs. It is made as an engine treatment so when I change the oil I have a little plastic bottle that I fill, that has a needlelike tube and put a drop on the pivot points of the knife.
 
i will use a synthetic lubricant for pivots and very lightly coat it. using a qtip to remove any excess. for my high carbon blades i apply fluid film so they dont rust or patina.
if you use the knife for food prep just use mineral oil for both. fluid film is suppose to be food safe also but some people are allergic because its from sheep and is lanolin based.

if you use too much lube you will probably have to change it more often due to the attraction of debris, and too much flings out in folders and gets all over the place. just need the tiniest drop to coat the metal surfaces to protect against wear. you dont even have to lubricate knife pivots for the most part.

ill use finishline dry or finishline grease for some knives. its useful for "some" ball bearings pivots, speedsafe bars, and washers (nylon or pb).

for the most part you lubricate pivots to protect the metal surfaces. if you have to lube a pivot to make it move better then something else is wrong or made wrong, but i dont necessarily want to claim that as 100% truf, as its more of my opinion.
 
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I was glad to see this thread's question, because being a summertime newbie to knives, I didn't know what to use. I've been using a very small amount of RemOil on mine, and it has worked okay. Appreciated learning about mineral oil, and plan to check out the product suggestion of Williamsville Butcherblock Oil.

Thanks....Glad to learn from all your expertise/experience.
 
Olive oil. Never goes rancid. Food safe. Doesn't smell. Always in the kitchen. Cheap. Lubricates knife joints well. Just a few drops wherever needed and it gives the wood scales a nice luster. Give it a try and see if I'm wrong.

Zieg
 
In the past I always used 3 in 1 just because that was what we had when I was young.
Now I use mineral oil . works great , it is odorless and if I get it on my hands I just rub it in .
Great for dry skin.
 
I use my custom 110 in the kitchen almost every day (also to cut apples) and it gets stiff after every wash no matter how well i dry it. Is an answer to this canned air? i have been oiling it and that is the only way to keep it moving, but it needs it every time.
 
EdsElephant said:
I use my custom 110 in the kitchen almost every day (also to cut apples) and it gets stiff after every wash no matter how well i dry it. Is an answer to this canned air? i have been oiling it and that is the only way to keep it moving, but it needs it every time.
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Have you tried just opening and closing it several times to loosen it up. I'll be honest I rarely oil my 110's.
 
I've used CLP, Rem Oil, WD-40, teflon, 3 in 1, Singer, and all sorts of dry and wet lubes. On my daily carry knives that will contact food I have used olive oil, mineral oil, and finally vaseline. Vaseline works great and works at cold temperatures, too. It does not wash off easily, either, and it is food safe. It needs to get more respect as it really is a good product. I used to get rust spots (very high humidity here) even when coating my blades with mineral, olive, WD-40 and etc. When I went to the Vaseline, all of that stopped. It is the paraffin in the mix, that does the trick, I am sure.
 
I use 3 in 1. I don't do food prep with any of my knives so I'm not worried about accidentally consuming it. Works well for me...
 
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