What do you recommend for removing spots from D/C blades?

Jaxx

Jaxx

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I have a D/C finished Busse with a few patina-like spots... I'd like to clean them off. What do you recommend that won't affect the finish? Any suggestions? I used metal polish (Flitz) on a satin finished blade once for a similar problem, and it worked great, can I use the same on double cut finished knives too?? :confused::confused: :) What say you???
 
no flitz or any polish!! you will then have a nice satin spot right in the middle of your dc blade.

i have a little foam type block thing for removing rust spots from golf clubs. ill see if i can find you a link. it works pretty well, and the smoothing of the dc is minimal, if at all.

maybe a small piece of balsa wood would work?
 
Yeah... I kinda figured that would be the answer on the polish... Thanxx for confirming this however. :)

I wonder what would it look like if I did the whole knife with the polish... satin, but yet no grind lines? Has anyone tried this??
 
Jaxx said:
Yeah... I kinda figured that would be the answer on the polish... Thanxx for confirming this however. :)

I wonder what would it look like if I did the whole knife with the polish... satin, but yet no grind lines? Has anyone tried this??
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inadvertantly. there are still grind lines. wierd, huh?
 
MORIMOTOM said:
inadvertantly. there are still grind lines. wierd, huh?
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Really??? Damn! ...Yes, that is weird. Well, bummer... It's a sort of user, really more of a defensive sort of user, LOL I keep it by my bed, but the spots are annoying me, my eyes are drawn to them everytime I pull it from its sheath. There must be a way... :confused: :)
 
MORIMOTOM said:
inadvertantly. there are still grind lines. wierd, huh?
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Most likely because the process of creating a DC finish involves first putting on a (somewhat) satin finish with a belt sander (grind lines), followed by bead blasting. Speculation, but it fits.
 
Just beat the spots of the dand thing. ;)

Good question though Jaxx. My BATAC SE is quickly loosing its DC so I will either just do satin and use the old scotch-brite for up-keep. Or send it to Garth.
 
thats why d/c finishes suck :(

I prefer satin because I can sand paper them without regrets.


if you know anyone with a bead blast cabinet, that will certain do it.
 
Jaxx said:
I wonder if a simple pencil eraser would do it...? club eraser, huh... I'll try that. It doesn't remove the finish?
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pencil eraser might work. i havent tried one. it is less abrasive than the golf club eraser.

the club eraser will eventually remove the dc, because it is mildly abrasive. ive used it many times, though, and the areas are barely noticeable.
 
I always use some ballistol and wipe it with a towel:thumbup:
 
This is going out on a limb, but try one of these with some hot soapy water.

I use them to clean up my DC and satin blades all the time. Not sure about removing "patina-like spots" though.

eraser_product.jpg
 
Naval Jelly is used for removing rust spots....I haven't used it on a Busse yet, but seems like it might do the trick without smoothing the DC finish.
 
rt014 said:
Naval Jelly is used for removing rust spots....I haven't used it on a Busse yet, but seems like it might to the trick without smoothing the DC finish.
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Hey, this is a good idea. I didn't think of Naval Jelly, but it could be just the ticket.
 
WARNING This is a WAG WARNING

There is a gun cleaning product made by Kleenbore called "Leadaway" that should probably work. It is a chemical-impregnated rag that is used to wipe down stainless (and other) firearms to remove all sorts of gunk, including powder residue. They warn that it will remove the bluing if used too liberally.

http://www.pistoleer.com/kleenbore/cloths_patches/

Rick
 
Guyon said:
Hey, this is a good idea. I didn't think of Naval Jelly, but it could be just the ticket.
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so just pick the jelly out yo navel...
ummm:barf:
seriously, i would try some oil and a soft cloth, first.
the eraser is gonna leave a shiny spot.
polish is not going to make your dc satn, it'll just give you shiny dc.
to make dc satin takes a bit of work with sandpaper.
maybe a dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener or a wooden chopstick or something?
i stick with satin or just plain naked for this reason.
good luck!
 
rbmcmjr said:
WARNING This is a WAG WARNING

There is a gun cleaning product made by Kleenbore called "Leadaway" that should probably work. It is a chemical-impregnated rag that is used to wipe down stainless (and other) firearms to remove all sorts of gunk, including powder residue. They warn that it will remove the bluing if used too liberally.

http://www.pistoleer.com/kleenbore/cloths_patches/

Rick
Click to expand...

Another good idea. I use one of these for a couple of things: to clean my S&W 686 (stainless) and to clean powder residue on my muzzleloader. It takes off the residue when Hoppes or CLP won't touch it.
 
I've always used Flitz on my double cut blades without shiney results, it does minimally smooth it a bit. I use very (very) little product and rub it in with my finger first, entire blade not just one spot. If that doesnt get it all I use a soft cloth to wipe the product off the blade, that action usually takes the stains off. I did my Badger SE yesterday and it still looks double cut. :) The key is not over working it, and working the entire surface. I wish I had a before pic, sorry about that. :o

Your results may vary,
 
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