What do you think?

J

JustAFleshWound

Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
741
Hello all, I would like you to critique my design. Besides the glaring finish issues and screwed up plunge, what would you change?
GentsFixie007.jpg

IMG_1336-2.jpg

Steel-1084
Thickness-0.132"
Thickness behind edge-0.034"
Handle material-"Natural" Micarta
Blade length-2.85"
Cutting edge length2.32"
Overall length-6.25"

Thanks in advance for any and all critiques and advice! :thumbup:
 
Last edited:
Love it! Very handy size, good lines, well done. My first knife was very similar to that size and shape.


-Xander
 
The biggest thing I would change is to take the edge down much more before sharpening. A knife that small isn't going to see any chopping or prying, so you could easily take the edge down to 0.01" or less.
Other than that, I think it looks like a real solid design. Maybe add a tube in your lanyard hole that matches your pins.

- Chris
 
fast14riot said:
Love it! Very handy size, good lines, well done. My first knife was very similar to that size and shape.


-Xander
Click to expand...
Thank you! :thumbup:


Hesparus said:
The biggest thing I would change is to take the edge down much more before sharpening. A knife that small isn't going to see any chopping or prying, so you could easily take the edge down to 0.01" or less.
Other than that, I think it looks like a real solid design. Maybe add a tube in your lanyard hole that matches your pins.

- Chris
Click to expand...
I was doing a home heat treat, so I didn't want to risk it with a thin edge. Could I take the edge thinner with an oxy-acetylene torch heat treat? That was the original plan, but I lost my 1/4" drill bit. :o Thank you!
 
I don't use a torch for my HT, but I can tell you that I've successfully done HT in a charcoal forge with edges less than 0.02".

- Chris
 
You can always hit it up on the grinder after HT to knock down the last bit of edge thickness.
 
^ Definitely. For some reason I had assumed that you did it all with hand tools.

- Chris
 
Great job! I like the suggestions of thinner edge and matching lanyard tube. You can see that the edge is thicker toward the plunge if your secondary bevel angle is consistent, which I believe is very common thing with new makers. I have a knife in my shop that I keep as a personal reminder to try and avoid that. Thinner edges go a long way to hide slight differences. BTW, this knife is much better than the one I am describing. I also think the knife would flow better if the blade wasn't quite as tall. Overall, awesome job. Especially with hand tools. You should be proud of that one.
 
ERIK KNIVES said:
Great job! I like the suggestions of thinner edge and matching lanyard tube. You can see that the edge is thicker toward the plunge if your secondary bevel angle is consistent, which I believe is very common thing with new makers. I have a knife in my shop that I keep as a personal reminder to try and avoid that. Thinner edges go a long way to hide slight differences. BTW, this knife is much better than the one I am describing. I also think the knife would flow better if the blade wasn't quite as tall. Overall, awesome job. Especially with hand tools. You should be proud of that one.
Click to expand...
Thank you! My bevel angle is not completely consistent. I'm using a little jig I made up that is similar to the Edge Pro in function so the edge is more obtuse towards the tip. But the edge is thicker towards the ricasso. I like tall blades, but you're right. This one is a bit extreme. :p
Thank you! You're making my head swell! :D
 
Great job. The lines are nice, its only the finish that is a bit rough. You should be really proud of that.
 
I like the design a lot. Personally I like thinner blade material (1/8 inch) especially on so small of blade. The lanyard hole looks good where it is but I would worry about the handle material breaking where it gets thin along the top back of the tang. Good job.

- Paul Meske
 
aarongb said:
Great job. The lines are nice, its only the finish that is a bit rough. You should be really proud of that.
Click to expand...
It doesn't look so rough in person, it's 600 grit. Thank you, I am. ;) :D

lonepine said:
I like the design a lot. Personally I like thinner blade material (1/8 inch) especially on so small of blade. The lanyard hole looks good where it is but I would worry about the handle material breaking where it gets thin along the top back of the tang. Good job.

- Paul Meske
Click to expand...
Thank you! The thickness is only 0.07" over 1/8". The thin area there concerns me a little bit too, but I think it will be all right (Micarta is pretty strong). Thank you! :thumbup: :)
 
I think it's kind of good !!!! Now if that's your 50th or so then that might not be my reply. The handle material could have reached closer to the ricasso but it looks well proportioned and I'll just bet very comfortable to hold and use.I believe the shape is more of one for skinning than a more overall use one but it will work for that too. You have a lot going there that in my opinion says you have some good background in what is needed in a knife for use in the bush. Make more ! Stay with the "ideas" you have for shape and size and continue to learn what really will work. Frank
 
Nice job. Simple and functional.

The bevels can be taken down after HT just the same way they were before....by hand sanding. It is just a lot slower. I would use a 6X2" block of hardwood with a strip of sandpaper wrapped along it. Jigs are great for some things, like sharpening, but not for learning to hand sand a bevel.
You can still go back and re-sand that blade, but I would just make this a learning experience, and use that knowledge on the next one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top