What do you use for a Quench Tank?

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
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I know this comes up every once in a while...just curious what everybody is using.

I have some Brownells Tough Quench - 1 gallon. I'm tempted to just use the jug it came in.....:o


Got any ideas?


Who else here is using the Brownells stuff? Got any tips/tricks?

Thanks!
 
I've been using a coffee can for small knives. It works as long as your only doing a knife or two at a time(too many and the oil gets too hot). Its also a big PITA! :rolleyes:
When I get time I think I'm gonna try to weld something up thats more permanent, maybe a big trough to hang off the side of my welding table :confused:
 
I use a 3 1/2 gal parts washer from harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=35740 . I had the idea of putting some expanded metal mesh in place of where they have their shelf and filling it to a height above that to control my quench depth but when you fill it that full it starts leaking out where the pup controls are mounted.:( The pump I had envisioned using to circulate the oil around where the blade is being quenched but it pumps about 1 quart a minute :( . Good thing I did not buy it for this purpose or I would be kicking myself, but since I had it anyways it isn't that bad. I think I'm going to plug up that switch housing and give the expanded metal another try. The one good thing about it is the lid has a fuseable link so if for some reason the oil catches on fire and stays on fire for any longer than the normal quench time the lid will drop.:)

Matt Matlock
 
I like your steel-trough-hangin'-off-the-bench idea, Matt.
 
I got one of those big ammo cases from a army surplus store. Holds liquid well with a lid that I can close. Of course I have never really used it but that is what I got it for.
 
I use one of the stainless steel resturant pans. It is about 8 inches deep, about 14 inches long and about 6 inches wide. It was something I had laying around, but they are not too expensive and can be had with a lid. They come in a lot of sizes. It sits on my "crock pot" warmer to slightly heat the oil.
 
Mark Nelson said:
I got one of those big ammo cases from a army surplus store. Holds liquid well with a lid that I can close. Of course I have never really used it but that is what I got it for.

I use something similar. I think they called it a grenade box. The waterproof seal is nice.
 
I bought a 155mm round canitster at the local military surplus store. I like it so much I bought another one.
 
I have 3 of the presto cooker/fryers. Also have 3 of the larger drywall mud pans. For a full quench I have a SS fire extinguisher hull. All seem to work fine for the different size blades I make.

Ken (wwjd)
www.wacoknives.com
 
A 40MM ammo box, Thy are perfect with a water proof lid and all, find one that will hold a little over a gallon, hot oil expands. Gib
 
I use a steel "paint bucket". Actually lollypops came in it but it's the same as a regular paint bucket including needing a screwdriver to pop the lid out if you push it in tight. Seems to work fine to me.
 
Looks like the concensus is... whatever you have laying around that will hold 1+ gallons of oil and has a nice big opening :D. Military containers gets an extra nod because most of them seal water tight and they do everything to overkill.

Matt Matlock
 
A stock pot works well. You can even heat it on a hot plate and get it up to temp. I will use that for small blades. I have a piece of pipe welded on to a rail road plate for longer blades. I use a hot piece of steel from the forge to heat the oil with and use a thermometer to check the heat.

I believe it's Terry Primos that has a quench tank that is heated with a water heater element and a circulating pump. Now that is a quench tank!

Craig
 
for most my quenching I use a turkey roasting pan, made a simple quench plate to adjust the depths I want and it holds probably close to 2 gallons of oil. I just slip it on a hot plate to warm it up and I'm good to go, also if I ever have a fire I've always got the lid to cover with. For full quenching I use a 4" steel pipe with a cap welded to the bottom.

Bill
 
I do what Bill said for differential hardening; for full quenching I just use a paper milk carton. :eek: Not recommended! :D Just all I could find and I've never thrown it away...

Someone once said they use a valve cover from a V8 engine, and that's what I'm looking for!
 
Dan, I scanned the thread and am sure someone already recommended what I am to say. One gallon is probably a bit light in volumn. I use two gallons of Tough-Quench and really think I'd better using even a little more.

I have found Tough-Quench requires a learning curve too. The pre-oil temps for it differ for me than plain ol'off-the-shelf vegi oil (see * below). Tough-Quench is the deal but I am still learning it for different steels. Do samples at various oil temps and quench times. Anyhow, that is my observation from many hours with it.

* I can do O1 at about 105 F oil temp and 10XX pretty well at about 127 - 130 F oil temp.. Quench time depends on thickness and overall mass. Big blades: about 2 minutes (believe it or not). BUT ALL I WRITE ABOVE is for full quench. Edge quenching is not relative to any part of my posting.

I went back and looked at the notes on your big 5160 Mobby. I see that I first edge quenched it at 134 F and it turned out a failure. On the second and final attempt I edge quenched it at 125 F. The oil volumn was probably no greater than one gallon and it was Brownell's Tough-Quench. You know the rest of the story as to edge retension. So, I'd guess with edge Tough-Quenching 5160 about 125 F should get you through a battle or two.

RL
 
Thank you Roger - excellent tip.


The tanks suggestions are all great, guys. I will start my hunt and see what turns up.

(except for your paper carton idea, Dave...that's a stinker!) :D :eek: :p
 
I use a valve cover. Just made a stand to hold it and a cover for the tank to put out any fires. It works great for me.
 
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