What do you use for slabbing valuable wood?

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Apr 17, 2010
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I've been thinking about getting a new saw for slabbing wood to make handle scales. I want something that can make very straight, precise, flat, parallel cuts with a very narrow kerf, so as not to waste valuable wood.

What do you use for this? I've been thinking about getting a scroll saw or small bandsaw for this, I'm not sure.
 
my 10" benchtop bandsaw doesn't track straight enough due to only having a 1/4" wide blade.
my 14" floor model works better, even with only a 3/8" or 1/2" wide blade.
a scrollsaw with fence might be able to make straight enough cuts, but I doubt it.
 
Scroll saw wouldn't be my first option for slicing scales out of blocks.

A bandsaw is the obvious choice. However, depending on what you're cutting, small is not the direction I would prefer to go.

I started with a Lowe's 9" Skilsaw bandsaw....absolutely worthless for cutting blocks into scales on the woods I was using. The rip fence is a joke, the saw is underpowered, and the blade is not wide (not thick, wide) enough. Then I tried the same type saw at Home Depot in a Ryobi...same thing.

These small bandsaws are not good....and I don't mean on a nit-picking level. They're garbage....they shake like a leaf in a storm.

I then tried the 10" bandsaw at Sears.....it was much better and would be the smallest I would recommend for what you seem to want to do with it. It had barely enough power to cut even scales and the rip fence was barely adequate....however, with some patience it could probably work.

However, it is still not a very good saw.

What I learned through the whole "Buying a bandsaw" process was that a bandsaw seems to be a machine that really needs some serious weight to prevent shaking and enough power to use a 3/4" wide blade in order to cut nice, even scales in the woods we typically use for handles. The woods are hard and dense and need a fairly heavy duty saw. The 14" saws from the like's of Grizzly/Shop Fox, Jet, Powermatic, etc. are where I really recommend people start. However, that's a large investment I know....so the little 10" Craftsman was the best I found in the small range.

Hope that helps.
 
Here's one approach!

[video=youtube_share;VWP36Esx-UI]http://youtu.be/VWP36Esx-UI[/video]
 
I have an old Craftsman Hand Miter saw in the garage -- didn't think of that, but it would work perfectly.
they don't cost much, either.
hand-miter-saw.jpg

bolt it to a 2x8 and clamp that to a table as needed if you're hurting for counter space -- then hang it on a wall when not in use.
 
Here's one approach!

a hot glue gun would definitely speed that process up, and I would suggest using a brand new blade, generally when you cut with the grain on a piece of hard wood you get a lot of smoke and burnt wood
 
a hot glue gun would definitely speed that process up, and I would suggest using a brand new blade, generally when you cut with the grain on a piece of hard wood you get a lot of smoke and burnt wood

New may not be necessary, but a blade with enough teeth [80 tooth thin kerf] along with sharp is a must. Ripping on a miter saw is not natural, so as it show on the video, slow cutting with little pressure is recommended.
Hot glue guns are great!
 
One thing you can usually find used craftsman or similar ripsaws on CL for about 100 bucks. Also there are usually 14" bandsaws at really good prices. I picked up an old Atlas 14" for 50 bucks, changed the bearings and tires and it works great now.
 
I found a narrow saw that I set up on a slitting arbor.

16.jpg


The cut is fairly flat and accurate and there isn't too much waste. I will be going to machinist hell for this.
 
Some of the Japanese pull saws have rip blades. I am using one now. It makes a very fine, straight cut.
 
I found a narrow saw that I set up on a slitting arbor.

16.jpg






The cut is fairly flat and accurate and there isn't too much waste. I will be going to machinist hell for this.

You will no doubt be getting a letter from OSHA, wheres the guard?
 
You will no doubt be getting a letter from OSHA, wheres the guard?

Guard? If there were a guard I couldn't try and see how far I can sling them at the end of the cut. That's no good.

I really shouldn't post stuff like that. I should mention that it is down at moderate speeds and you always stand upstream from the cut. And at no point is any part of my body within two feet of the blade.

I actually like using metal working machines for wood. Wood specific machines have large pitch cutting edges moving really fast and dinky workpiece retention. A rock solid spindle and dead solid workpiece make for relatively drama free cuts in wood. I like low drama in the shop. That said, some nitwit standing on the wrong side of the cut and taking a deep cut is probably going to hurt themselves.
 
Point well taken.

After a lifetime of working with big ,powerful, man eating, machines; I still have all ten fingers and both eyes; I take great pride in that. I know quite a few old timers who worked in wood and steel for a lifetime, whose hands tell tales about how fast accidents happen in a machine or wood shop.
 
Here's one approach!

[video=youtube_share;VWP36Esx-UI]http://youtu.be/VWP36Esx-UI[/video]
I tried it this way right after Fred posted his video and it works great. 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy works if you cant plan ahead and glue it up the day before with wood glue. Sharp blade, slow and easy and i didn't have any problems.
 
10" table saw with thin kerf blade (3/32). Fast, straight, minimal waste. One side of the wood has to go against the knife and the amount of material you save with a bandsaw blade will be lost flatening the cut, in my experience anyway. I have a Delta 14" band saw and I never use it to rip.
 
Nathan that is wicked!! Machinist hell, LOL!
I use table saws for trimmin blocks down.
For the micarta i use a 10" tile saw.
Im always using my metal band saw even for wood scales, im rarely at the wood saw.
 
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