What *exactly* do you look for in a sheath?

[Omega Leather Works]

That's typically called a Sam Browne stud after the policeman. They were used for fastening belt accessories I think. They are also used with frogs to attach to the belt. I just got my first shipment in brass, silver and black. I am really digging them a lot. Only thing is that the sheath needs to be lined to protect the knife and handle. Doesn't add much cost in materials, but it certainly adds more in time. I'm not a fan of snaps. I mean, I'll do them, no problem, but for my own uses I'd rather retention be done with the stud and a strap, or from good wet forming alone. The two sheaths that I have for my two Fiddleback's actually click when the knives are inserted. It's not hard to do, but it does require that the actual knife be in the craftsmens hand.

I'm going to write down any patterns that I see in the preferences that you guys have layed out. I feel like it'll give me a good place to start making adjustments to your needs.

Probably goes without saying, but thanks again for your input. I didn't know that so many would have all of this so well thought out, and I'm really glad I asked.

Please continue if you think of something else, or if you haven't yet added your thoughts.

Ant

 

[Skystorm]

Sam Brown studs, rivets etc can be counter sunk with your drill press. Just pick up a counter sink bit from the woodworking section and take out the drill bit from it. What I hate are people that are lazy and just glue a patch over screw back studs. Like that's never going to come off. Personally I hate retention straps of any kind, I'm not jumping out of airplanes. I like proper forming on spear point and foldover sheaths instead, you can do cartwheels all day and the knife isn't going anywhere. You can always use the Loveless Cam design for welt retention.

 

[trestle]

I know it's not your thing but if you use a kydex liner you can put in all the brass or metal hardware you want without having to double or triple the leather stack.

I have a sheath that Martin the Unspeakable made for me where he reversed the belt loop and sewed it on the inside, leaving the top grain exposed and the inner side of the grain looped on itself. I'll see if I can get a pick to show what I mean. Forgive my butchering (no pun intended) of leather nomenclature.

Dwayne Puckett at Armorall Leather did a neat pouch sheath recently where he simply folded back the loop and sewed it down. If it's OK with you I can post a pic of it but this is your thread and he doesn't post in this forum so I'd rather you OKd it.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Sam Brown studs, rivets etc can be counter sunk with your drill press. Just pick up a counter sink bit from the woodworking section and take out the drill bit from it. What I hate are people that are lazy and just glue a patch over screw back studs. Like that's never going to come off. Personally I hate retention straps of any kind, I'm not jumping out of airplanes. I like proper forming on spear point and foldover sheaths instead, you can do cartwheels all day and the knife isn't going anywhere. You can always use the Loveless Cam design for welt retention.

You are correct of course. The stud or snap back can certainly be counter sunk. Thanks for the correction.

I know it's not your thing but if you use a kydex liner you can put in all the brass or metal hardware you want without having to double or triple the leather stack.

I have a sheath that Martin the Unspeakable made for me where he reversed the belt loop and sewed it on the inside, leaving the top grain exposed and the inner side of the grain looped on itself. I'll see if I can get a pick to show what I mean. Forgive my butchering (no pun intended) of leather nomenclature.

Dwayne Puckett at Armorall Leather did a neat pouch sheath recently where he simply folded back the loop and sewed it down. If it's OK with you I can post a pic of it but this is your thread and he doesn't post in this forum so I'd rather you OKd it.

I've actually got some kydex to play with. I'm constantly drawing and playing with designs which hasn't left me with much time to mess with it, but I look forward to working with the thermoplastic soon.

I know the method you're describing. It looks really nice! I've done a back panel that had the nap facing out where the loop was the grain side. A stamp (or tooling) can look really cool on the nap side, but it's harder to do. If you sand the nap on a belt it gets really short and smooth and that helps, but you also need a deep impression.

Please, by all means, post any pics you'd like! I spend as much time looking at sheaths as I do drawing them. I wouldn't mind seeing what you like at all.