It's very refreshing to see someone that isn't worried about magic grinders and crying about lack of the high end tooling :thumbup:
If you fill out your profile to include your location it'll help alot. There's probably a maker near you that will be willing to help out.
I usually go to yard sales and flea markets looking for old files. Look for ones with sharp teeth, some gunk build up is fine because it'll clear out with a card file or by soaking in acid. You can save a LOT of money doing this and usually find really good file for 10% of what they would cost you retail.
Buy a file card and some chalk, I use my kid's sidewalk drawing chalk. Rub chalk onto the file before using, it helps prevent loading up and the burrs you can get from "cold welding" while filing. Use the file card every 20 strokes or so, the minute you spend cleaning the file will be saved by the file cutting cleanly. Do not throw your files around, do not let them bang into each other, if you can't hang them then have them stored separated from each other. A file is a tough tool, it's also a fragile tool, they will last for several lifetimes if cared for.
If you have the ability to anneal and heat treat an old file I would highly recommend making a "sen", it's basically a plane used on metal. Very traditional Japanese tool, really easy to make and it will eat metal up if used properly. Do a search for Don Fogg and sen. This will explain it better than I can and why bother to re-invent the wheel when a master explains it already?
Learn draw filing, there's some threads on here about how to draw file. You'd be very surprised at how efficient the technique is and can be very relaxing, at least to me but I'm a weirdo (heck, I'm a knifemaker so I guess that goes without saying.)
Work height is very important in filing techniques just like in forging If the piece is too high and you'll quickly tire and the file gets "wobbly" because you're working with your arms bent beyond 90 degrees and tend to "hang" onto the file, too low and you lose a lot of control of the file. I like to have the work a little above my beltline, just under the height of bending my arms 90 degrees. If you have to, build a box to stand on, experiment with what works best for you. VERY IMPORTANT, remove the blade when not working on it and have something that extends past the point WHILE working on it.... blades are very stabby and a slip will demonstrate this to you very painfully.
A lot of people make the mistake of putting their hands on the ends of the file, this increases the wobbliness of the file, if you can put your hands close as is safe towards the blade you'll reduce the side to side leverage and reduce wobbles. Be careful! as the blade comes toward final thickness it can and will cut the heck out of you!!!!
Now you're wondering, "heck, Why has Will has spent all this time talking about files but not WHAT files?" In my opinion what you work with starting out isn't as important as you starting. A mill bastard and a chainsaw sharpening file are all you really need to get started. You can get a finer finish by using lighter pressure with the mill bastard then wrap paper on it to get to your final finishes. The chainsaw file is used to file in your plunge cut and to file in the rounded shoulders at the tang/ricasso junction to prevent stress risers. As you get more experience you'll buy more files and know what works for you.
If you've read through all this thank you. Here's what you need to make a knife:
Mill bastard, I use a 14", 12" are easily available everywhere
Chainsaw file
File card and chalk
Sen if you can make or buy one
Sandpaper 120x to 400x
A barrel of desire, sweat and elbow grease
For inspiration look at the work of Wolfgang Loerchner, he doesn't own a power tool and makes some of the most desirable blades in the world.
If I can be of help please feel free to contact me.
