What files?

G

ghost squire

Joined
Feb 1, 2004
Messages
360
What files for stock removal? As in, using them to file away metal, not turning them into knives.

I'm just wondering what the pros use here.
 
Are you asking for brands or individual types of files that we use? As for brands I like Nicholson and simmonds. The simmonds have a fast cut diamond tooth configuration that does not clog and moves alot of metal. They are also the most expensive files I have ever purchased before. The last one I bought was $27.

I am sure you will get at least a hundred other posts re: files.
 
Im no pro, but i use nicholson files. Mainl half round, a big 16"mill file for draw filing, and a small set for filework. I use a 1/2"round rough cut for all y primary handle sculpting...they never seem to come out as good when i grind the curves in...
 
I'm no pro either, but I agree with the Nicholson brand. For spine work a round chain saw file and thin triangular file. For most other work I use single or double cut bastard files. A set of small "hobbyist" files really helps with detail on bolsters, guards and handle work. A thin flat file and a square file can take the place of a milling machine for guard slots.
 
To cut metal, Bastard in Grobet, Freiderich Dick, Nicholson
I do like the Grobet sets you can get of the 5 files in both 00 cut and 1 cut.
Use Friedrich Dick or Grobet needle files for filework on Titanium and/or stainless and/or spacers....they have a real nice cutting edge on the 3 square, square, and all the sharp edged curved shaped ones.

Have used diamond needle files for fileworking on hardened steel like the springs on slipjoints and blades but it is alot of effort on a 60 Rc piece of steel.

If you asre gonna remove alot of steel on a pretty regular basis, go for a belt grinder....it is worth saving up your sheckels for one.:)
 
Yes, I was asking both brand and type, thank you all for answering!

Mr. Fraps, I do have a grinder, but I am inexperienced on power tools and I like the feel of file on metal. Although rough shaping will definately be done on the belt sander.
 
I mostly agree with what folks have said already, but wanted to add one thing. When draw filing, I use a single-cut file. Seems to leave a nicer finish IMHO.

Just my $.02.

-d
 
deker said:
I mostly agree with what folks have said already, but wanted to add one thing. When draw filing, I use a single-cut file. Seems to leave a nicer finish IMHO.

Just my $.02.

-d
Click to expand...
You are spot on.
Nearly all filing, while doing firearms, is draw filing.
A good file card and a chalk block or " elephant turd" are essential items.
I love old Black Diamonds.
They can be somewhat restored with a quick acid dip...
I'm a sick puppy :D but there is no greater file challenge than restoring an octagon rifle barrel by draw filing WITHOUT leaving waves.
This is measured with a micrometer. .006 is my tolerance
This means that every mm of the barrel gets the same amount of material removed, from end to end ,all the way around, untill all of the pitting is gone.
When I start building knives ( soon) the same methods I know for stock removal will be used.
I need me a Dozier grinder ;)
The forge is nearly done and the heat treat oven is at a buddies T&D shop... as is the RC tester :cool:
Dont expect anything wonderful.. I'm a gunsmith, not a knifemaker.. the best I can hope for is some duplication of current designs, with a gunsmith twist.. like HAND checkering, color hardening, bluing, engraving, and nice, unusual, woodwork..
 
Gringogunsmith said:
I'm a sick puppy :D but there is no greater file challenge than restoring an octagon rifle barrel by draw filing WITHOUT leaving waves.
This is measured with a micrometer. .006 is my tolerance
This means that every mm of the barrel gets the same amount of material removed, from end to end ,all the way around, untill all of the pitting is gone.
Click to expand...

You're right, you're a sick puppy. I can't even imagine the patience requires to hold tolerances like that while hand filing.

Gringogunsmith said:
I'm a gunsmith, not a knifemaker.. the best I can hope for is some duplication of current designs, with a gunsmith twist.. like HAND checkering, color hardening, bluing, engraving, and nice, unusual, woodwork..
Click to expand...

I hope to eventually get to gunsmithing. Any recommendations of reading materials until I get there? I'm partial to 1911s and already have the Kuhnhausen book, but more suggestions of stuff to familiarize myself with are always welcome. Also, any suggestions on books to learn about S&W wheelguns? I don't want to hijack this thread though, so feel free to email me through the board.

-d
 
Mr. Ghost Squire,
your comment about inexperience on power tools made me remember "back when"....and then just yesterday evening I reminded my self that "back when"
is very recent when I sanded the tip of one my fingers to a very tender point while holding a small piece of steel against a 60 grit belt. :D

By the way, I'm more like a "John", or "Hey You", or to answer to "Soup's On".
It's an old cliche but Mr. Fraps was my Dad, but appreciate your courtesy.:)

John
 
Hey you don't need power tools to do that though, I have abraded off the sides of my thumbs many a time with a coarse grit waterstone while reprofiling! Thanks all for the responses, I'm off to amazon.com to buy a few files and accessories.
 
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