What grit sand

F

Future

Joined
Oct 17, 2016
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When I finish forming my blade and need to start sanding to clean it up, which grit should I start with from the blades roughest form and which grit should I end with ? This is my first post ever in a forum and this will be my first blade. Thanks for any help.

Gary
 
I use emory paper starting with either 220 or 400 depending on how dirty/rusted the knife might be. Then go to 600, 1000 Smith's ceramic and finish with 1500 emory usually taped to a paint paddle.
Rich
 
Im going to be using an old Sear table belt sander with side disc sander duo. I just learned I can lift this table sander from horizontal to vertical which is cool. So I will try to get a belt of either 220 or 400 like you said. Thanks
 
I start a step under what ever I stop at on the grinder. If I come off the grinder at 220
Then I start at 150. If 400 then 220. I finish at 400-600 for most knives.
 
Thanks for advice, guess I'm over thinking or I'm looking at this out of order. Once I form the blade out of the lawn mower blade I have I should FIRST clamp down to table or in vise and use HAND GRINDER on HIGH GRIT then after basic clean up move on to my old Sears BELT SANDER? Correct, thanks Matt for any advice. Kinda looking for a dumbed down step 1, step 2 etc etc...
 
Step 1: Forge, cut, grind, torch, etc.. your profile. That is the silhouette or outline of your blade.

Step 2: Flatten both sides of your knife on your belt sander with a course belt like a 36-50 grit.

Step 3: Rough grind your bevels with a 36-50 grit belt on your belt grinder.

Step 4: Drill holes in tang and heat treat.

Step 5: Take the flats to 220 and finish grinding the bevels up to 220.

Step 5: Start your hand sanding at 150 and go as high as you want. I usually finish at 400-600.

I would only use an angle grinder to profile as it will be very difficult to keep things flat and could result in lots more work.
 
Matt R said:
Step 1: Forge, cut, grind, torch, etc.. your profile. That is the silhouette or outline of your blade.

Step 2: Flatten both sides of your knife on your belt sander with a course belt like a 36-50 grit.

Step 3: Rough grind your bevels with a 36-50 grit belt on your belt grinder.

Step 4: Drill holes in tang and heat treat.

Step 5: Take the flats to 220 and finish grinding the bevels up to 220.

Step 5: Start your hand sanding at 150 and go as high as you want. I usually finish at 400-600.

I would only use an angle grinder to profile as it will be very difficult to keep things flat and could result in lots more work.
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This is a great list. The only thing I use an angle grinder for when making knives is the first step, profiling (making the silhouette). Then, it's belt grinder time. I start at 50ish grit, then 80, then 120-220grit. Then I go to hand sanding, starting at 180-220grit. Go as high as you like to get the desired finish.

Go to YouTube and start watching Walter Sorrells' videos. They are funny and informative. You will get the idea.
 
As far as sanding (hand or grinder) a good rule of thumb is to double the previous grit. I.E. 60,120,220,400,800,1500 etc.
 
1. Throw out the lawnmower blade. It is not knife steel. It won't work. It's useless for a knife. Did I mention it's not good?
2. Order 1080, 1084, or similar steel and get back with us.
 
thanks everyone, this is all good stuff but bumed about the lawnmower blade, I was wanting to make a machete.
 
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