What Grits Do I NEED. (Japan Wet Stones)

Gerberblades said:
For that money, you should save a couple more bucks, and get an Edge Pro.
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+1 Most everyone here knows that I am a big fan of the EdgePro. :D

I am also a fan of waterstones... I would recommend the following if you choose to go the freehand route.

1) 8" 120Micron X-Coarse DMT DiaSharp Diamond Hone

2) Bester 700grit WaterStone. This is my favorite all around water stone because it is very versatile. It cuts fast and leaves a nice 1000+ polish finish.

3) King 4000grit Large Water Stone

4)Shapton M5 12000grit Laminate Stone. This one is not a solid 12000 grit stone so it is quite a bit cheaper.

5)Stone Holder


You can probably take care of 2) and 3) with one large combo 1000/6000 King Stone. I just personally prefer individual stones. And also because I really like the 700 Bester Stone.

You can also pick up a leather strop with green compound for maintaining your polish edges or to polish out your edges.

If you have some serious reprofiling to do then you can use the X-Coarse Diamond hone to do most of the metal hogging before cleaning up the rough scratches with the 700 Bester. In addition that X-Coarse diamond hone can be used to lap your stones and keep them flat.
 
Don't shell out 200 (at least) on stones until you are very comfortable using less expensive ones. And check out that Ray Mears video that was posted in the other thread, the grits that he stated there should be just dandy. Also, PLEASE don't sharpen your knife on your car window, that is something you should only do if you don't have any stones or strop handy.

EDIT: Listen to what Ban says. He knows what is up.
 
get a norton 1000/8000 combo water stone. you will never look back.

When i really need to sharpen some steel (except d2 and 154cm), I pull this out and it works like a charm.

Brett
 
Blood_Grooves said:
Theses things are expensive. like almost a busse, but i need to learn how to sharpen. so i will not be able to buy every grit level, which ones can i skip (if recomended). i see they have combainations. if you could link me to the ones i should buy i would be very thankful. :)

EDIT: would this work http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/cPath/34_501/products_id/3527
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BTW, those stones in that link should also work. It would make a good starter set.
 
Another idea to save you some money: Get wet/dry sandpaper and learn to sharpen convex edges. Sandpaper is cheap and if you get good at it, you can get as scary sharp as anything else.

I can get crazy sharp edges with 320 -> 600 -> 1500 grit paper. You can go as fine as you want. I usually strop on leather with green compound after 1500, then bare leather. Of course, you can go as fine as you want with the paper.
 
BruceWayne said:
I really like hominy grits...;)
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Down south here, you got your white grits and your "yeller" grits.

They each got their good points and bad points, but butter helps them both.


I didn't know you were supposed to sharpen Busses.

That would almost imply that you use them first. :eek: :eek: :D
 
Grits, the real breakfast of Champions! Grits will help you attain full growth.:D Good, thick grits, thick enough to eat with a fork, with salt and butter.

Go to Cracker Barrel, order grits. This is so that you will know what to avoid at all costs when cooking grits.
 
well i guess it isn't a question of which stones, but if i should get them or the edge pro....

I do need to learn how to sharpen by hand...

the stones are cheaper...

and take up less space...

it looks like i should get the stones...???:confused:
 
the machine dosen't make the edge you do with out know how the edge pro can do more damage than good.....
 
Ummmmm...Grits...
Grits.jpg
 
eastr77 said:
the machine dosen't make the edge you do with out know how the edge pro can do more damage than good.....
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Can't stones damage the blade also...:confused:

but i was wondering how you would sharpen... oh lets say a BATTLE MISTRESS! :confused: with the stones, and with the edge pro?
 
I have sharpened a Dod Father, BM-E, and even my AK on the Edge Pro. The AK was especially hard as I had to do it in sections and be very careful to keep the angle the same all the way through. The EP did a superb job but it was tedious at times.

The key to avoiding damage, IMO, is to take it slow.
 
MikeH said:
Grits, the real breakfast of Champions! Grits will help you attain full growth.:D Good, thick grits, thick enough to eat with a fork, with salt and butter.

Go to Cracker Barrel, order grits. This is so that you will know what to avoid at all costs when cooking grits.
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I never understood how they could have major lumps one visit, and be able to pass through a screendoor the next....

I likes me grits like Mike said, salt n butter ( + side of bacon.. :thumbup: :cool:)
 
Blood_Grooves said:
Can't stones damage the blade also...:confused:

but i was wondering how you would sharpen... oh lets say a BATTLE MISTRESS! :confused: with the stones, and with the edge pro?
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I sharpened my Muddy Fusion Battle Mistress with DMT's D8XX 120 grit diamond benchstone, a Norton 1000/8000 grit combination waterstone, and stropped with 3M 1 micron polishing paper (the missing link between Snuggle and 'scary sharp') over glass. It was quick, dirty, and easy.

Most all that I do is a bastardization of the techniques Koki Iwahara describes here.

Although the D8XX is my favorite coarse stone, I'd recommend a DMT D8C or D11C (8" or 11" coarse stone) and 1000 grit Glasstone from Shapton for most all knife sharpening needs. The D8C cuts fast enough and leaves a good finish; the 1000 grit Glasstone cuts fast and leaves a near-mirror finish and, unlike most other waterstones; just needs a splash of water and just the occasional flattening (cuts faster than most 1000 grit waterstones, too). A side benefit is that the D8C quickly flattens the Glasstone (when that time comes) without leaving huge gouges like the D8XX does.

With the D8C and 1000 grit Glasstone, one can slowly branch into coarser and finer stones (the D8XX for rapid stock removal; higher grit waterstones and strops for that finely polished edge) while learning how to free hand without feeling deprived.

That said...

The addiction gets expensive really quick, so if none of your knives are going to be waifer-thin; high-hardness blades, a Harbor Freight belt-sander and some finer-grit belts from Lee Valley will be faster and cost less and the convexed, polished edge it will leave can be maintained away from home with a ceramic pocket stone.
 
Most of what I sharpen is meant to cut wood the rest for meat and I never got past a combo Carborundum stone. Meanwhile your grit numbers were confusing me so I found this:

Here is a great grit grading guide, gratis.



USA Japanese
100 150
180 240
240 280
280 360
320 500
350 600
500 1000
600 1200
700 2000
900 4000
1200 5000
1600 6000
2200 8000
 
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