What if the burr won't leave?

I have a Smiths 4in diamond combination stone that I take camping and I have no trouble getting a shaving sharp edge off the orange(750grit) side so I don't think the stone is a problem. The way I get rid of burrs is to try and reduce them as much as possible on each stone that I use so I don't end up with a huge burr at the end. I'll sharpen as usual until a burr is formed on each side and then I'll start to do light strokes,10 per side then 9 per side then 8,7,6...etc until I get down to 1 and I do a few extremely light alternating strokes before moving on to the next finer stone. After the last stone I'll make a few light cuts into a cork or peice of wood and then finish on the strop. It may be a waste of time to do this with each stone but ive never had a problem with burrs doing it that way so I've stuck with it. Sorry if I confused you lol I'm not always good at getting my thoughts into words but I hope I helped.
 
BTW, bluntcut's method also good to try. I receive some sharpened knives from him & it's sharper than I can make it ;)

A take away from recent thread about burr (by the resident experts): the abrasive media must be ideal for the steel, so that with the right pressure, the burr is abraded and not flipped or recreated on the other side. To put it differently, the amount of pressure needs to be just right, in conjunction with the abrasive media and the steel characteristic to abrade away the burr. Usually this means very light pressure.
 
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I am just starting to implement blunt's method and you can see it works. Give it a try and I bet you become a believer. That man is pretty crafty... Russ
 
Chris "Anagarika";12924343 said:
BTW, bluntcut's method also good to try. I receive some sharpened knives from him & it's sharper than I can make it ;)

A take away from recent thread about burr (by the resident experts): the abrasive media must be ideal for the steel, so that with the right pressure, the burr is abraded and not flipped or recreated on the other side. To put it differently, the amount of pressure needs to be just right, in conjunction with the abrasive media and the steel characteristic to abrade away the burr. Usually this means very light pressure.
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That sums it up. Bluncuts method will give you a larger margin of error re pressure and positions the burr for easier removal. I'll also add that the more it flips the easier it flips, and the tougher it will be to remove. I try to only flip it once (make burr on one side, recreate on other, remove by working original side), this seems to keep it fairly strong at the attachment point and makes for an easier time removing.
 
I realize money is an issue but I also had problems with burr removal. The only consistent easy way to remove it, for me, has been the buffing paper wheel. In the future you may want to check it out. I mean 1 or 2 passes and done.
 
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