What iI The Strongest Folding Knife Lockup?

I really had high hopes for the Speed Safe Frame Locks. Now after seeing a few broken ZT's and other issues with the design,

I'm beginning to wonder and am rethinking their strength and advantage over liner locks.

So the research continues ..... :confused:

It is not a design failure; it is a person malfunction.
If someone is busting frame-locks, they should have their sharp objects confiscated and be issued a pair of plastic safety scissors.
Seriously.

YouTube has the planet's highest concentration of idiots. Keep that in mind when viewing any of their "advice".
 
Barry Wood or clone. . .
 
It is not a design failure; it is a person malfunction.
If someone is busting frame-locks, they should have their sharp objects confiscated and be issued a pair of plastic safety scissors.
Seriously.

YouTube has the planet's highest concentration of idiots. Keep that in mind when viewing any of their "advice".

Dotto! If you break a ZT lock it was either jacked from the factory which is quite rare and will be replaced for free, or you were being a complete moron with it and shouldn't own or be near anything sharp
 
It is not a design failure; it is a person malfunction.
If someone is busting frame-locks, they should have their sharp objects confiscated and be issued a pair of plastic safety scissors.
Seriously.

YouTube has the planet's highest concentration of idiots. Keep that in mind when viewing any of their "advice".

Ain't that the truth !
 
A strong lock is good but reliability is what is really important. I don't think I will ever test the strength of most locks even in heavy use. But some locks just aren't that reliable in my experience and can fail at just a fraction of what would cause them to fail by something breaking. I don't trust liner and frame locks much anymore. Sure they can be quite strong but they also can fail (close) without anything breaking which would be a test of their strength. When they have closed on me it was because the lock bar slipped off the blade tang. I'm sure it can happen for a couple reasons but a quick 'jarring' of the knife can do it like a light chopping into a branch which shakes the knife and causes the lock to move. Sure, I shouldn't have been chopping into a 1/2" branch and the wood grabbing the blade may have had something to do with it. But it still shouldn't cause a lock to fail as it was a light chop and not trying to whack it in half in one swing. If that can do it then it's not very reliable because many other locks can do it all day long. Also, certain things seem to make the lock walk across the tang and come unlocked. Twisting the knife while whittling did it. Repeated squeezing of the knife might have had something to do with it. Still not very reliable. I'm surepeople will say it is my fault but when there are locks that can be used the same way I will stick to the ones that don't close which is why Iddon't buy or use frame and liner locks if I can help it.

I would also be curious about the guy who said something about an AXIS lock failing. Is there a video of it? I have never heard of one failing other than an omega spring.
 
Compretion lock is strong but I had a PM2 with up and down play . I think the lock used by the manix is the strongest next in my list will be the the axis lock .
 
Even if there is a video of it I wouldn't take it for gospel. You have no idea what abuse the knife and lock were subjected to before "failing" on video.
 
I think that any lock where steel has to be crushed to fail should be some of the strongest. I'm talking about locks like the Spyderco compression lock and ball lock, maybe the bolt lock also. And the Benchmade Axis lock. But these designs depend on the proper execution (construction) of the theory. If the angles are manufactored incorrectly, it can cause the lock to "squirt" out of engagement. I also wonder about the compression lock arm turning sideways under stress. But I do not worry about any of the current locks failing. I don't do much cutting with the back of the blade anyway!
 
It is not a design failure; it is a person malfunction.
If someone is busting frame-locks, they should have their sharp objects confiscated and be issued a pair of plastic safety scissors.
Seriously.

YouTube has the planet's highest concentration of idiots. Keep that in mind when viewing any of their "advice".

Ain't that the truth !

Folding knives are just that, folding knives, if ya don't want one to close on your fingers don't use it in a way that's conducive to failure, get a fixed blade.

I had one lock failure in 40 years a liner lock on a Schrade Trapper, I tried to stab it into a telephone pole, it folded and nearly cut my finger off, (I was 12 at the time, someone shoulda took my knife away).
 
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A strong lock is good but reliability is what is really important. I don't think I will ever test the strength of most locks even in heavy use. But some locks just aren't that reliable in my experience and can fail at just a fraction of what would cause them to fail by something breaking. I don't trust liner and frame locks much anymore. Sure they can be quite strong but they also can fail (close) without anything breaking which would be a test of their strength. When they have closed on me it was because the lock bar slipped off the blade tang. I'm sure it can happen for a couple reasons but a quick 'jarring' of the knife can do it like a light chopping into a branch which shakes the knife and causes the lock to move. Sure, I shouldn't have been chopping into a 1/2" branch and the wood grabbing the blade may have had something to do with it. But it still shouldn't cause a lock to fail as it was a light chop and not trying to whack it in half in one swing. If that can do it then it's not very reliable because many other locks can do it all day long. Also, certain things seem to make the lock walk across the tang and come unlocked. Twisting the knife while whittling did it. Repeated squeezing of the knife might have had something to do with it. Still not very reliable. I'm surepeople will say it is my fault but when there are locks that can be used the same way I will stick to the ones that don't close which is why Iddon't buy or use frame and liner locks if I can help it.

I would also be curious about the guy who said something about an AXIS lock failing. Is there a video of it? I have never heard of one failing other than an omega spring.

Actually there are quite a few articles on the Benchmade AXIS lock failing. I had really high hopes for the frame locks but it is interesting to see how they break and fail.

And I do not trust or like China.
Sorry but I just don't.
 
This thread has got me thinking about "the strongest lock" and I think if your using a knife for its intended use, no lock is even needed. Its easy for us to get caught up in the next best thing. In this case locks, blade steels too. All im saying is no lock should be needed if your CUTTING things, but other tasks I can understand the need for a lock.
 
CRKT has that auto lock thing where a little lever slides down and wedges between the liner and frame.
It keeps the liner pressed up against the blade and fills the space between the frame and liner so there
is no way anything can move until the lever is released. The whole thing is pretty slick.
 
CRKT has that auto lock thing where a little lever slides down and wedges between the liner and frame.
It keeps the liner pressed up against the blade and fills the space between the frame and liner so there
is no way anything can move until the lever is released. The whole thing is pretty slick.

I had a CRKT Titanium Liner Lock Knife and the liner failed by bowing out and bending.
 
So you've had two locks fail on you??

Sorry buddy, But I think you need to give up on folding knives and get yourself a Busse. If you can hurt that I'll eat my 560!
 
So you've had two locks fail on you??

Sorry buddy, But I think you need to give up on folding knives and get yourself a Busse. If you can hurt that I'll eat my 560!

My daughter had the CRKT fail on her. I do my best to stay away from liner locks.

But what I didn't know was about the weak spot on a frame lock. I looked over my Volt SS last night after actually seeing a broken ZT and I never realized how thin the frame is in that one area.

Google for a picture. It is interesting.

As far as a Busse goes, you sound like my buddy Bill !! $800.00 15 years ago .. I wish ;)
 
A properly executed liner lock will not fail under normal use. If you are
making a liner or any other lock, you need a fixed blade. Or an axe.

I have owned several well done liner locks, axis locks, and a frame lock. I would consider the axis to be the strongest, but I do not fear for my fingers using an of my knives.
 
I always thought the buck 110 had a great lock up, but from my research it looks like the Tri Ad is really lock to beat now. In fact they say it's so strong that the blade will break before the lock ever does. My next knife is going to be either a Voyager or Recon 1 to test it out.
 
My daughter had the CRKT fail on her. I do my best to stay away from liner locks.

But what I didn't know was about the weak spot on a frame lock. I looked over my Volt SS last night after actually seeing a broken ZT and I never realized how thin the frame is in that one area.

Google for a picture. It is interesting.

As far as a Busse goes, you sound like my buddy Bill !! $800.00 15 years ago .. I wish ;)

Don't have to google it. I've got a 350 and a 560. Both are .050 at the thinnest part. My leek is .042. I'll never fear for my fingers. I grew up using slip joints and still treat everything like it could close if you're not careful. I buy what I think are tanks, But the biggest safety feature is the thing between my ears.

You buddy Bill has good taste. Okay, So an INFI Busse is out of range for a lot of people. That is why there is Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard.
 
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