what is best knife sharpener & easy to use ?

I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker for pretty much everything. If the blade is really dull or needs to be reporfiled, I lean a course DMT diamond stone up against the Shrpmaker rods.
 
PayetteRucker said:
daimnods take way too much material off to get the job done. I like arkansas stones personally, but I know how to keep a steady angle. All these fancy sharpeners are only good for maintaining straight edge knives- a Sharpmaker isn't going to help you keep a convex or scandinavian edge.
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Depends on the steel and job to do before deciding on diamonds doesn't it?

Why wouldn't a Sharpmaker "help you keep a Scandinavian edge"?
 
cj65 said:
If you read the 1 yr. old thread "Is your time important to you?" You will get all the background info you need. I think you will be pleased with the results on the paper wheels, and the cost of grinder plus wheels are more than reachable, even on a budget. You can easily spend that much on a few decent quality bench stones. The major winners for me are: 3 minutes to sharpen even a dull blade, ease of procedure, scary sharp edge-pretty much ended my journey (sped it up) to become scary sharp on any of my knives, and under $100 solution. Give them a try, you will be happy with the results.
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This sounds very appealing...maybe I should hold off on another blade purchase and try something that might take my existing blades to a new level....
 
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cj65 said:
If you read the 1 yr. old thread "Is your time important to you?" You will get all the background info you need. I think you will be pleased with the results on the paper wheels, and the cost of grinder plus wheels are more than reachable, even on a budget. You can easily spend that much on a few decent quality bench stones. The major winners for me are: 3 minutes to sharpen even a dull blade, ease of procedure, scary sharp edge-pretty much ended my journey (sped it up) to become scary sharp on any of my knives, and under $100 solution. Give them a try, you will be happy with the results.
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Is this a Paper Wheel System?

Charlie's Wheel Slicing Edge Sharpening System
 
Someone please correct me if i'm wrong. I have never personally sharpened on a wheel system but have had to re-sharpen or touch up dulled edges that were. It seemed that the paper wheels are readily capable of producing a very sharp edge but it will always be convex in profile. Once a blade has been wheel sharpened, re-sharpening or touching up by another method (pocket hones, guided rod systems, bench stones, ceramic rods) or anything other than a wheel, belt sander or mouse pad/sandpaper is made more difficult. I found a lot more metal had to be removed because of the rounded bevel profile before I could to get to the edge. It appears that once a convex edge is applied I'm stuck with it. Conventional sharpening becomes more difficult and time consuming unless I re-profile which is a lot more work and not at all practical in the field.

Thanks. OldDude1
 
ginshun said:
I use a Spyderco Sharpmaker for pretty much everything.
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Same here. The Sharpmaker is simple and easy to use, and puts a very good edge on all my blades.

If the blade is really dull or needs to be reporfiled, I lean a course DMT diamond stone up against the Shrpmaker rods.
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Just get the diamond coated sleeves for the sharpmaker. Great for reprofiling or doing the inital sharpening on one of the harder super steels.
 
OldDude1 said:
Someone please correct me if i'm wrong. I have never personally sharpened on a wheel system but have had to re-sharpen or touch up dulled edges that were. It seemed that the paper wheels are readily capable of producing a very sharp edge but it will always be convex in profile. Once a blade has been wheel sharpened, re-sharpening or touching up by another method (pocket hones, guided rod systems, bench stones, ceramic rods) or anything other than a wheel, belt sander or mouse pad/sandpaper is made more difficult. I found a lot more metal had to be removed because of the rounded bevel profile before I could to get to the edge. It appears that once a convex edge is applied I'm stuck with it. Conventional sharpening becomes more difficult and time consuming unless I re-profile which is a lot more work and not at all practical in the field.

Thanks. OldDude1
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It seems that the paper wheel is a hard flat surface at the point of contact and you control the angle of the blade against the paper wheel surface.
 
I just got this one on sale. Has Coarse/Med/Fine/Serration stones. All are diamond except the serration stone. Nice case and plenty of slots for any angle. Regularly $70 and comes with the free grip stand. I was on the line about this or the DMT. I'll give this a whirl and if I need I'll get some DMT stones as well to suppliment as need be.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0006453514317a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntk=Products&QueryText=gatco&sort=all&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&Nty=1&hasJS=true&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form23&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1
 
I've been working with/learning on a Sheffield Pocket Steel.

By FAR the most important thing is the get rid of the micro rolled edge that you can't even SEE. When I've eliminated that most any blade I've dealt with will shred paper or mow hair.

I've got cheap China made Schrade, Buck, Winchester and an Appalachian Trail knife from Lowes that will all do that.

So long as you get rid of the micro burr you are on the way!
 
there are many cheap knock off wheels out there and i have both the cheap ones and the good ones. you can get the good ones at grizzly imports or at any woodcraft store. info and dealers that carry the wheels can also be found at this link. http://www.sharpeningwheels.com/ the cheap ones i have vibrated and shook the first time i used them. i trued them up and they still shook. i bought 2 of the good abrasive wheels a few months ago.
 
richard j said:
there are many cheap knock off wheels out there and i have both the cheap ones and the good ones. you can get the good ones at grizzly imports or at any woodcraft store. info and dealers that carry the wheels can also be found at this link. http://www.sharpeningwheels.com/ the cheap ones i have vibrated and shook the first time i used them. i trued them up and they still shook. i bought 2 of the good abrasive wheels a few months ago.
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My dad found the Razor Sharp Paper Wheel System wholesale for $15 plus shipping I think I'll give it a try soon ; ) I have a belt sander but I do not like it for sharpening the paper wheel method seems more precise and controllable to me.
 
I have not tried the paper wheels yet but have no doubt that they work very well, This from having seen Richards shapening, first class!!!

That said, the best thing that I have used so far is the belt sander, I really like the convex edge and the sander does a good job. The real tough ones take a little time or go to Richard j .:D
 
PayetteRucker said:
daimnods take way too much material off to get the job done. I like arkansas stones personally, but I know how to keep a steady angle. All these fancy sharpeners are only good for maintaining straight edge knives- a Sharpmaker isn't going to help you keep a convex or scandinavian edge.
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Sure it will, just take the rods out of the base and sharpen the convex knife or scandi, it should do as well as any rod/stone.
 
Mousepad + sandpaper seem to get good results especially on my Busses, but if you have two 'left' hands (just like me), Spyderco's Sharpmaker would be the one to get the job done. Folders, kitchen knives, choppers, scissors, all get more than reasonably sharp with this tool.
 
No reason you can't get a wicked sharp edge on the sharpmaker with a little patient. I'm waiting on mine to get here via post, but I anticipate it to produce great edges than can be stropped to perfection.

I free handed a lot, but got tired of my setup (DMT with holes in the surface, useless completely).
 
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