what is it feel like to use supersteel blade?

I have owned lot's of supersteel pieces . The advantage they confer is subject to the law of diminishing returns , I mostly carry and use SAK's - they are perfectly adequate . I have never ran out of edge on any cutting chore . I can get a SAK back to pocket scalpel type sharpness in seconds .

In the tropics , I would prefer a SAK for corrosion resistance alone . Oxidization in the pocket will dull a supersteel edge long before you get to do any work with it .

They are nice to have , fun to play with , but SAK's are plenty good enuff for all I do .

Chris
 
Ahhhhh... you guys really made me more confident with humble SAKs steel... now the desire to get some supersteel is more cool down... BUT its made me desire more SAKs...!!!
 
last question...

can an s30v or d2 be sharpened with hi grit sandpaper?

thx guys...
 
last question...

can an s30v or d2 be sharpened with hi grit sandpaper?

thx guys...

By Hi Grit I take it you mean fine grit - like 200 wet or dry ? If so yes , either on a flat piece of glass , or for convexing on an old style neoprene mousepad .

Chris
 
last question...

can an s30v or d2 be sharpened with hi grit sandpaper?

thx guys...

If it is only for a light touch up, yes you can, but if you need some serious sharpening you will need a lot of sandpaper, and time....
I'm talking about D2, never own S30V
 
The Spyderco knives aren't even really supersteels, AUS8 isn't anything special in my opinion.

Huh? Try CPM D2, CTS-XHP, CPM S90V, CPM M4, ZDP-189, CTS-20CP, just a few of the alphabet soup of super-supersteels that Spyderco is now making knives in. The days of AUS8 being labeled a supersteel is over. Spyderco doesn't even use AUS8 anymore. We have much better steels now.
 
If it is only for a light touch up, yes you can, but if you need some serious sharpening you will need a lot of sandpaper, and time....
I'm talking about D2, never own S30V

thanks alot daniel...if thats the case, since i always use light duty with my saks and folder, then i stay with victorinox blade for a while hehehe...

i can feel the pain if i got to spent hours just for removing some chips or re profiling...

you have been very2 helpful pal... thanks a lot for helping a newbie like me...
 
Iyonk, let me put it in perspective for you this way;

In my younger day, I collected custom knives. I was single, had a large disposable income, and in my youthful confidence believed I knew what I was doing. I had Randall's, Ralph Bone, Don Hastings, and many more both forged and stockremoval from the socalled wonder steels. I did learn something though.

I learned that a sharp blade is a sharp blade, no matter if it's made with the wonder steel of the month with half the letters of the alphebet in it, ot a crude jungle forged bolo made from a 1952 Ford truck spring. Both cut the same. A 8'95 Opinel or 15 dollar sak will open a package or cut a rope just the same.

But...

I found in too many cases, the more expencive wonder knives would chip or suffer damage way easier than the plain old 1095 carbon or other steel non wonder steel. I ended up selling off and giving away my entire custom and high end folder collection. Now I just carry Victorinox, Buck, and other good but not expensive knives. The point of diminishing returns is low on these so called wonder steels. Yes, they will go longer without sharpening, but they can be a bear to sharpen, and with a harder edge, comes some brittleness problems. Steel is a basic formula; increase hardness, and you decrease toughness. Why do they make ax and hatchet and machete blades softer than knife blades? This is why so many knife nuts break their knives by doing dumb things with them like chopping and batoning. They are not tempered for that impact.

I camp, fish, and used to hunt, and I've found that a sak does all jobs well. Plus you can sharpen it up on a wide variety of materials in the field in just a few minutes.

In the end, it all comes down to snobbery. LIke having a Rolex watch instead of a Timex or Casio. Not much a matter of function as much as percieved status.
 
Huh? Try CPM D2, CTS-XHP, CPM S90V, CPM M4, ZDP-189, CTS-20CP, just a few of the alphabet soup of super-supersteels that Spyderco is now making knives in. The days of AUS8 being labeled a supersteel is over. Spyderco doesn't even use AUS8 anymore. We have much better steels now.

What I meant to say was VG-10. I really like VG-10 as it provides an extremely fine edge but it doesn't compare to the newer supersteels in edge retention/corrosion resistance.
 
If you give me your address I'll send you a knife with good steel if you want. As long as it's leagle to send it to you. Email me.
 
Iyonk, let me put it in perspective for you this way;

In my younger day, I collected custom knives. I was single, had a large disposable income, and in my youthful confidence believed I knew what I was doing. I had Randall's, Ralph Bone, Don Hastings, and many more both forged and stockremoval from the socalled wonder steels. I did learn something though.

I learned that a sharp blade is a sharp blade, no matter if it's made with the wonder steel of the month with half the letters of the alphebet in it, ot a crude jungle forged bolo made from a 1952 Ford truck spring. Both cut the same. A 8'95 Opinel or 15 dollar sak will open a package or cut a rope just the same.

But...

I found in too many cases, the more expencive wonder knives would chip or suffer damage way easier than the plain old 1095 carbon or other steel non wonder steel. I ended up selling off and giving away my entire custom and high end folder collection. Now I just carry Victorinox, Buck, and other good but not expensive knives. The point of diminishing returns is low on these so called wonder steels. Yes, they will go longer without sharpening, but they can be a bear to sharpen, and with a harder edge, comes some brittleness problems. Steel is a basic formula; increase hardness, and you decrease toughness. Why do they make ax and hatchet and machete blades softer than knife blades? This is why so many knife nuts break their knives by doing dumb things with them like chopping and batoning. They are not tempered for that impact.

I camp, fish, and used to hunt, and I've found that a sak does all jobs well. Plus you can sharpen it up on a wide variety of materials in the field in just a few minutes.

In the end, it all comes down to snobbery. LIke having a Rolex watch instead of a Timex or Casio. Not much a matter of function as much as percieved status.

To be fair most manufacturers assume that a folding knife is not going to be used to chop or baton stuff, which is why they emphasize on qualities like wear and corrosion resistance rather than toughness. Top of the line super steel for pocket knives like ZDP-189 has a reputation to chip rather than roll, but it is considered stainless and stays sharp for a mind bogglingly long time. If manufacturers' tests are to be trusted, it easily lasts 10 times longer than low end steels like Victorinox Inox or 420HC.

Now, if we talk about high-end super steels for large fixed knives like INFI, SR77 or M4, they are extremely wear resistant and tough, tough enough to chop through metal chain link without losing a huge piece of itself, but they're not considered stainless.

I agree that in any case you have to be a very heavy user (or anal retentive) to really appreciate the difference. It's like owning a Ferrari; unless you race most of your benefit is prestige. In the same token you can't fully appreciate a Hummer unless you drive offroad through very rough terrain.
 
For what it's worth, I own lots of different knives, some in "super"-steels (S30V, VG-10, 154CM, H1, etc.). I love them all. They all work, but they can be more difficult to sharpen (except probably the H1). Though I have sharpened all those steels effectively with no problem, I still love my SAKs. IMO, it's not only the steel that Victorinox uses, but the blade and edge geometry that they use, that also makes them cut so well and resharpen so easily.

When I lived in Taiwan for many years, my only knife was a Victorinox Spartan (an older version with harder red plastic handles and no tweezers or toothpick). It served me well, and other than getting some gunk in it, which I later cleaned out nicely, I never had any problems with it, and I never did much maintenance on it other than the occasional lube. Lots of knives would have been reduced to rust by that hot, humid environment w/out maintenance.

Another great thing about SAKs is they are universally known. They don't (or most of them don't) look "tactical." That's important if all you want to do is carry a knife for everyday uses. For the past several years, my favorite SAK pocketknife had been the Executive; it's just the perfect size for me, and I've found uses for every feature on it, except for the keyring. Easy enough to find in a pocket, but small enough that it doesn't feel like a lump down there. :)
Jim
 
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