What is the best degreaser?

A

alexmin

Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Messages
513
Guys,

what is the best degreaser out there?
I've been using denatured alcohol until I found that it is not a good solvent for fats. I am looking for something that will remove all the fat from surface and won't leave any surface film.


Thanks,
Alex
 
I dont' know about BEST, but acetone works pretty good. I also use alchohol, laquer thinner, and vinegar/water for some stuff.

For the cleanest finish, I use Brake cleaner. No residue at all. But acetone for most.

HTH
 
I just use alchol. Cheaper than acetone :)
What will you be degreasing for?
 
You can get Purple Power at your local grocery/dollar store. It's cheap and pretty effective when used with a little scrubbing. It needs to be rinsed clean, though. It's the best degreaser I've found this side of institutional formulas.

But soap and hot water work for almost any fat if you're not afraid to scrub.

Either way, any fat is going to come off easier when there is heat invovled due to the nature of the lipids.
 
CRC Brakleen. Get the chlorinated one in the red aerosol can. I think they're 2.99 at Wally World.
-Mark
 
I like LPS PreSolve Citrus Degreaser for the final cleaning of a slipjoint.
after sharpening, and any buffing.
It is non-resedue. Typically only thing needed after use is airgun, touch of oil on pivots and lemon oil on jugged bone handles.
MSC has it.
Since I gott go to WW this am, I'm gonna pick up a couple cans of that CRC Brakleen, red can....Cost is substantially less than LPS Presolve......Thanks for the recommendations even though I didn't ask the question!
 
Good quality lacquer paint thinner will remove all oils, and shouldn't leave a film behind. Low quality thinner will have impurities and will leave a hazy film. Naptha (camp stove fuel) is inexpensive and is a good degreaser.

BB
 
polish avenger said:
CRC Brakleen. Get the chlorinated one in the red aerosol can. I think they're 2.99 at Wally World.
-Mark
Click to expand...
I also have used Birchwood Casey Cleaner/degreaser. Its used for cleaning metal for bluing. But the Chlorinated stuff definately rocks. I use it after a buffing session.
 
My problem is that PBC compound won't stick very well to a blade even I apply it twice. Someone suggested to me that that might be due to not sufficient degreasing
 
If you're gonna use soap, Ivory is the only one that will leave zero residue.
Sure wish Freon was still available.
Grain alcohol (not denatured) is good. think everclear. Even if you breathe the fumes, you don't die. ...well, not right away.
 
howiesatwork said:
If you're gonna use soap, Ivory is the only one that will leave zero residue.
Sure wish Freon was still available.
Grain alcohol (not denatured) is good. think everclear. Even if you breathe the fumes, you don't die. ...well, not right away.
Click to expand...

Don't they all use moisturizers and other crap that leaves residue?
 
Anyone know if CRC Brakleener will harm jigged bone, mammoth ivory, pearl, or micarta?
If it doesn't , it is 20-25% the cost of LPS Presolve......I just picked up 4 cans from Wally World....$2.83 a can.....
But their tomato plants, even for a slowly late planter, were a good price...but this ole fellow has a sore back tonight from planting those and a few hot pepper plants (OK, 32 pepper plants) today.....

HAW...is that 'cause it floats?
Just kidding......

Alexmin...Everclear to clean grease???? OMG!!!!
 
bodfish said:
I dont' know about BEST, but acetone works pretty good. I also use alchohol, laquer thinner, and vinegar/water for some stuff.

For the cleanest finish, I use Brake cleaner. No residue at all. But acetone for most.

HTH
Click to expand...

Acetone has always worked well for me.
 
John R. Fraps said:
Alexmin...Everclear to clean grease???? OMG!!!!
Click to expand...

Well. it's like this........

whenever I can't get a stain out of ANYTHING, I grab a bottle of GIN. That's right, plain old gin. I have no idea WHY, but it works. Also, hair spray works good on some things, lighter fluid on some, me thinks it's the solvent used in the stuff we use. If we can use the same solvent, then it will liquify.

However, if you use Beefeaters or the like, you will go to hell for sure:D
 
alexmin said:
My problem is that PBC compound won't stick very well to a blade even I apply it twice. Someone suggested to me that that might be due to not sufficient degreasing
Click to expand...

I'd bet my right arm that you're not getting the steel hot enough. I take mine to at least 650 or slighly more before sprinkling (from a pepper shaker) PBC on the blade. Be sure not to forget the top and bottom edges and pivot and screw holes, if any.

I'm with Sunfish Don on cleaning, good old soap and warm water. If you really want something that you can smell for a while, VM&P Naptha is a good degreaser.

Someone mentioned lacquer paint thinner. There's paint thinner, and lacquer thinner, but not a lacquer paint thinner. The paint thinner is basically mineral spirits, and used in oil based paints, whereas the lacquer thinner is for lacquer based products.
 
Not hot enough! I apply PBC when I normalize. Add clay over it, if you
do that kind of thing and heat treat. I use a drywallers mud pan to keep the PBC in. Cut a notch in the end of the pan for the weld on handle. Heat the blade to 800 or so and dip the hole blade in the pan.Take it up to nomalizing
temperature and let cool. You're ready to heat treat.

I like Formula 409 for a good all around cleaner. It will cut any grease or oil and Its cheap :jerkit:

Fred
 
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