What is the best sharpening system?

TravisH said:
Yes!

Any powered machine can instantly mess up the tip if you fail to maintain proper control or follow proper procedure.
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I’d disagree for a couple of reasons...

First, the question compared the basic model with the K.O. model with the BGA. The basic model ran a thin belt at high speed, and it was far easier to pull the tip too far across, have the belt wrap around, and grind off the tip (basically, not following the instructions). It could be controlled, but even this was comparatively harder, because you couldn't easily see the tip. The BGA runs a wider belt, slower speed, with a belt less likely to 'wrap around', and in a position and method where you can easily see and control the blade, including the tip area.

Second, you could replace your "any powered machine" with "any sharpening method". There's been examples of tips being ground off on regular stones, guided devices, etc. I'm sure you've seen examples. While it's true that a rapidly moving belt can do it faster (and this was commonly seen when the HF belt sander was more popular)... using a device that runs at a slower speed with more control greatly reduces this issue. Like any method, just have to learn it... (and the method, especially on the BGA, makes it far easier to learn).

Huge difference between the KO sharpener with the BGA, and a belt sander like the 1x30 HF traveling over 3200fpm... I think the constant "belt sanders should be avoided by beginners" (and you're not the only one saying this) is a bit misleading... especially with sharpeners like the K.O. with the BGA, that has a lot of features making it a great/safe/easy way to sharpen... like anything else, just gotta learn how. My .02 anyway.
 
cbwx34 said:
While it's true that a rapidly moving belt can do it faster ...
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Exactly my point.

Anything moving faster (extremely faster compared to doing it by hand) can make it faster and easier to do damage.

According to Work Sharp, the WS moves at 3600 sfpm while the WSKO moves at 1200~2800 sfpm. With a manual Spyderco Sharpmaker, probably a max of about 60 sfpm.

Sure, a Sharpmaker can round off a tip. (I've rounded off a tip or two myself with it. ;)) But it took many passes over several minutes of improper control/technique. With a WS, this would have happened at least 20x faster, within seconds.


I think the constant "belt sanders should be avoided by beginners" (and you're not the only one saying this) is a bit misleading... especially with sharpeners like the K.O. with the BGA, that has a lot of features making it a great/safe/easy way to sharpen... like anything else, just gotta learn how.
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Agree. :thumbup:
 
cbwx34 said:
I’d disagree for a couple of reasons...

First, the question compared the basic model with the K.O. model with the BGA. The basic model ran a thin belt at high speed, and it was far easier to pull the tip too far across, have the belt wrap around, and grind off the tip (basically, not following the instructions). It could be controlled, but even this was comparatively harder, because you couldn't easily see the tip. The BGA runs a wider belt, slower speed, with a belt less likely to 'wrap around', and in a position and method where you can easily see and control the blade, including the tip area.

Second, you could replace your "any powered machine" with "any sharpening method". There's been examples of tips being ground off on regular stones, guided devices, etc. I'm sure you've seen examples. While it's true that a rapidly moving belt can do it faster (and this was commonly seen when the HF belt sander was more popular)... using a device that runs at a slower speed with more control greatly reduces this issue. Like any method, just have to learn it... (and the method, especially on the BGA, makes it far easier to learn).

Huge difference between the KO sharpener with the BGA, and a belt sander like the 1x30 HF traveling over 3200fpm... I think the constant "belt sanders should be avoided by beginners" (and you're not the only one saying this) is a bit misleading... especially with sharpeners like the K.O. with the BGA, that has a lot of features making it a great/safe/easy way to sharpen... like anything else, just gotta learn how. My .02 anyway.
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As far as powered (belt) system go, I think the KO with BGA is probably one of the safest to use and (besides the Tormek) the best option for those who are looking for a powered system.

Personally I would not recommend it to anyone and the more I use it, the more I am starting to dislike it. Like any system, there is a learning curve and for me this proved to be steeper than I expected. It is a semi-guided system and you still need a pretty steady hand to maintain an exact angle. I can certainly get my knives sharp but not as sharp and precise as with my other systems. It can be faster for a full re-profile but in general I found that I did not save much time compared to my other systems where I can clamp the blade in exactly the same position each time which makes touch-ups very quick and precise with very little material having to be removed.

True.... if used properly, it will not round of the tip or remove too much material but how many novice users will actually take the time to properly learn how to use the system? I knew what the problems could be and what to look out for but I still needed a lot of time before I got good results.

I am not trying to discourage anyone from buying the WSKO or saying that it is a bad system, your mileage may vary but this is why I do not like it.
 
cbwx34 said:
Which WorkSharp model do you have? The newer "Ken Onion" version is variable speed (making "messing up the blade" less likely)... with the addition of the "Blade Grinding Attachment", it's a great sharpening system, and can be found right about your price point.
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I'm a big KME fan for a lot of things, however all you may need to do is add the "Blade Grinding Attachment" to the WorkSharp if you have the KO edition. I didn't really like the WorkSharp until I added the Blade Grinder, the took it from a less than great system to a great system. But I still use the KME for a lot of things and always for my better knives.
 
I'm a new user to the KME system. My impression as a novice to sharpening systems, is that KME has a very short learning curve. Not only that, it uses a very deliberate motion, that in my mind, reduces the chance of disasters. Couple those points with a bit cheaper price than most, makes it an attractive system.

If you want sharp knives & don't care about aethetically polished edges, the basic diamond system, plus base is about $220. Reprofiling blades need two coarser diamond hones, for an additional $40. The additional $20 item that sealed the deal for me was the convexing rod, not even an option in most systems. All the above kit totaled about $280.

And I must give Knife Krazy of YouTube a shout out. I found his video of KME sharpening 101, to be an invaluable resource.

By the way, I'm not a salesman for KME; just an extremely happy new user.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
I'm absolutely delighted with my KME. It's very easy to use and durable, with great results. It's the core of my sharpening bench, as I like to call the mess below.

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I have the Edge Pro Apex but if I could go back I would have gotten the Wicked Edge. Wicked Edge clamps the blade, Edge Pro you have to move the blade around
 
Mrbladedude said:
I have the Edge Pro Apex but if I could go back I would have gotten the Wicked Edge. Wicked Edge clamps the blade, Edge Pro you have to move the blade around
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I know what you mean, particularly on small blades. Do you have the small knife attachment? It pretty much eliminates the moving and guesswork on small blades. I now mostly use my Edge Pro (more than my Wicked Edge).
 
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