What is the best way to clean up/restore two old knives?

[jpm2]

What's wrong with wax?

Wax is a good choice if you plan to store without further plans to use them. Oil is good for food use or if you plan to use it again at some point, but doesn't last quite as long because it will eventually evaporate.

I guess the notion with wax is that it doesn't flow into every microscopic nook and cranny to come in contact and coat every bit of exposed metal. It doesn't soak into any oxidation to stop it. For those reasons, I can't see it protecting and preserving steel as well.

I can't say what happens to breakfree and other petroleum preservatives long term. Evaporate? How long does that take?
After applying breakfree, I blow it out with compressed air and wipe dry as possible with clean cloth to keep dust from sticking. Of course it's not technically dry, as there's something left to coat and protect, but you can't see or feel it.

 

[Rhinoknives1]

What's wrong with wax?

Wax is a good choice if you plan to store without further plans to use them. Oil is good for food use or if you plan to use it again at some point, but doesn't last quite as long because it will eventually evaporate.

I guess the notion with wax is that it doesn't flow into every microscopic nook and cranny to come in contact and coat every bit of exposed metal. It doesn't soak into any oxidation to stop it. For those reasons, I can't see it protecting and preserving steel as well.

I can't say what happens to breakfree and other petroleum preservatives long term. Evaporate? How long does that take?
After applying breakfree, I blow it out with compressed air and wipe dry as possible with clean cloth to keep dust from sticking. Of course it's not technically dry, as there's something left to coat and protect, but you can't see or feel it.

WAX works fine, When I put it on, I rub it up enough to melt/flow into any of these nooks and crannies and if you talk with conservators at Museums, They use Renaissance Wax on all knives swords and even old firearms with Ivory, bone etc.

Any oil will collect lint, dust, dirt etc long term. Anything I want to preserve and use, as far as edged steel is concerned, I use wax.

 

[jpm2]

WAX works fine, When I put it on, I rub it up enough to melt/flow into any of these nooks and crannies and if you talk with conservators at Museums, They use Renaissance Wax on all knives swords and even old firearms with Ivory, bone etc.

Any oil will collect lint, dust, dirt etc long term. Anything I want to preserve and use, as far as edged steel is concerned, I use wax.

Break free may work for you on your old model 19 etc , anything I want to preserve and use, as far as edged steel is concerned, I use wax.

I caught your post before the edit. Thanks for the M19 reference, brought back memories, but haven't owned one for ~35 years.
The one Smith I do own is my Dads pre model 10 .38 Military & Police. Just to reassure myself, I dug it out of the safe, still looks just as I put it up many years ago. While out, I gave it another rub down with breakfree.

My colt 1911's, revolvers, belgium A5's, model 70's etc haven't aged a minute. Same with the carbon steel knives, some stored in their leather sheaths.

Applying breakfree as I described will not collect trash (dust, dirt, lint, etc).

I like wax for wood, ivory, bone, leather, paint, etc. but for metal I figure it's more for presentation than preservation. I could be wrong, but don't see how wax can do a better job on steel.

 

[Rhinoknives1]

I use all of my knives for food, food Prep and rather ingest a little wax than Break free or oil.