What is the best way to free a stuck post vice?

R

R.H.Clark

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Aug 23, 2007
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I picked up a post vice and two bars of stainless today at the scrap yard for $20. The vice is froze up but not beat up or anything.I'm soaking it in WD-40 right now.Was wondering if I will ruin anything if I heat it with a torch.
 
See if you can get some Kroil. I've found it to be superior to WD-40 when trying to free up rusted machinery. A little heat will probably be OK, but don't go so hot that you might draw the temper out of anything
 
the only tempered piece on a vice are usually the jaws... a hot wrench can be good. but definantly keep it soaking in kerosene, for a few days. WD40's good too. but you get a WHOLE lot more kero for the money!

Jason
 
PB Blaster is great stuff:thumbup::thumbup:
Much better than WD40
Stan
 
PB Blaster for freeing up frozen bolts, WD-40 for cleaning up moving parts or cleaning surfaces without removing patina. That said, heat can be very bad on older post vices. On many older post vices from the mid 1800s and before the threads in the box are brazed on and you can destroy the box with heat.
 
pb blaster is my favorite. some heat won't hurt but there are some times brass pieces on these old post vices, usually the collar just behind the ball that the handle slides through buti in front of the pivoting jaw. The rear Bolt cover that the cross bolt srcews into is also sometimes brass. just make a pass with a file to check before applying a whole lot of heat.
 
A really big hammer :p...

I have also used BreakFree a few times with good results.
 
B'laster (note the apostrophe) is tops in my book, but a good long soak in anything like kerosene, Kroil, Knockerloose, and I mean perhaps weeks, is the main thing and usually what it takes. Don't expect overnight miracles. Easy does it with force, and don't throw any heat into the spring.
 
Well,I got some PB Blaster but two days and no luck yet.Looks like I'm going to have to get a big bucket and some Kerosene and let it soak a week or more.

Everything looks to be in good shape except for the fact that it's froze about an inch from closed.I got my $20 worth in the pieces of stainless bar so even if it won't work it's no big loss.

I've been lucky about finding deals.I picked up a working post vice in good shape for $40 a couple months back and it's a beast close to 100 lbs.
 
Mix tranny fluid with acetone and soak. It WILL loosen up. May take a few days. Patience is a virtue.
The grease and crud and corruption that accumulates in the screw box needs to soften up. A couple ounces of penetrating fluid likely won't touch it.
 
Seriously, try tabasco sauce, it is in my toolbox along with a couple of other home remedies. It eats rust like you wouldnt believe and frees stuck bolts pretty quickly.

hmm now that I think about it, I wonder how it would work for etching?
 
tattooedfreak said:
Seriously, try tabasco sauce, it is in my toolbox along with a couple of other home remedies. It eats rust like you wouldnt believe and frees stuck bolts pretty quickly.

hmm now that I think about it, I wonder how it would work for etching?
Click to expand...

I used the chili at Ashokan to etch Damascus. it worked well:eek:

Cocacola eats rust, it has phosphoric acid in it (read Naval Jelly) I think PB may have have something similar


-Page
 
Another old recipe for a penetrant that I learned from an old tractor restorer is 50/50 mix of kerosene and turpentine but it's nasty stuff...the smell is really pretty strong!...I make sure I don't spill even a little bit in the shop!
 
Huh, normally when I try to pull things apart with a hot wrench, I don't apply nearly enough heat to screw up a brazed joint... unless you are seeing heat color in the piece I wouldn't worry about it. He's right about the spring, though, don't get that very hot at all if you can help it.
 
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