What is the best way to re handle a Carbon V Master Hunter? SAMEK please chime in

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Dec 12, 2009
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I plan to make a 2 scale G10 handle for a blade I have but want it to look like a 1 piece handle. I will obviously have to hollow out the tang inlet of the scales evenly to do this but what is the best way? I have never rehandled a knife before. I have the idea of what I am looking for in my head but do not know how to apply it. I have seen a few pics from a member on here and really liked his design and would like to do the same design or at least close. Here is a link to his thread.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/626735-Cold-Steel-Master-Hunter-I-did-it-my-way
 
It depends a great deal on the tools you have, and your experience with them. Give me some details and I'll be glad to point you in the right direction.

CS/MH's are great knives and make great projects. :thumbup:
 
I have a bandsaw, drill press, dremel, electric miter saw and all the usual tools 1 keeps around :-) THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH
I am also looking at desert ironwood as a possible handle material

It depends a great deal on the tools you have, and your experience with them. Give me some details and I'll be glad to point you in the right direction.

CS/MH's are great knives and make great projects. :thumbup:
 
There are several ways to build a handle for a narrow tang knife like the Master Hunter. If you want to make it with two slabs sandwiched around the tang, just cut a groove in each one as long and wide as the tang, but only half as deep as it's thickness. You can use your Dremel for this; I think you can get a fitting to guide it like a small router. Measure carefully. It's good to have a couple thousandths of "slop", this will be filled in with epoxy later.

Put together, these will fit around the tang. Measure carefully again and drill a hole through each scale to match the hole that already exists in the MH tang (where the lanyard tube is on the stock model). Use this hole for a pin or tube that fits all the way through both scales and the tang - this will prevent the new handle from sliding off. Then basically assemble the whole thing (including the tube or pin) on the tang with a layer of good slow-curing epoxy on all the mating surfaces, let it sit overnight and shape the handle as desired.

Obviously I've left out a bunch of details, but that's the basic idea. Check the stickies in the ShopTalk forum for more instructions or send me a pm with any questions.

You will need to decide if you want to use the stock sheath; if you do you'll need to build a guard that's very close to the original so it will snap securely into the sheath.

Ironwood is great stuff but it's pricy and somewhat tricky to work with. I wouldn't recommend it for your first project. Micarta is a fine choice.

Here's a MH I rebuilt for a client a few weeks ago. I made this one with a solid block of G10 rather than mortised scales, but the general idea is the same.

MH01.jpg


MH04.jpg
 
That client wanted his as close to the original size and shape as possible. You could shape the front of a guardless handle like Samek's to snap into the sheath if you wanted. Or if you're going to make a new sheath, make it however the heck you want :)
 
Make sure you wear a protective mask when grinding/sanding G-10. It can be very hazardous to your health if you breath it in.
 
Killgar is correct. I would amend that to say, where wear a respirator when grinding anything.
 
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Nice work. If you're careful you could still put a pin or tube through it. :)
 
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