What is the best way to re handle a Carbon V Master Hunter? SAMEK please chime in

[southernfryedyankee]

I plan to make a 2 scale G10 handle for a blade I have but want it to look like a 1 piece handle. I will obviously have to hollow out the tang inlet of the scales evenly to do this but what is the best way? I have never rehandled a knife before. I have the idea of what I am looking for in my head but do not know how to apply it. I have seen a few pics from a member on here and really liked his design and would like to do the same design or at least close. Here is a link to his thread.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/626735-Cold-Steel-Master-Hunter-I-did-it-my-way

 

[james terrio]

It depends a great deal on the tools you have, and your experience with them. Give me some details and I'll be glad to point you in the right direction.

CS/MH's are great knives and make great projects. :thumbup:

 

[southernfryedyankee]

I have a bandsaw, drill press, dremel, electric miter saw and all the usual tools 1 keeps around THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH
I am also looking at desert ironwood as a possible handle material

It depends a great deal on the tools you have, and your experience with them. Give me some details and I'll be glad to point you in the right direction.

CS/MH's are great knives and make great projects. :thumbup:

 

[james terrio]

There are several ways to build a handle for a narrow tang knife like the Master Hunter. If you want to make it with two slabs sandwiched around the tang, just cut a groove in each one as long and wide as the tang, but only half as deep as it's thickness. You can use your Dremel for this; I think you can get a fitting to guide it like a small router. Measure carefully. It's good to have a couple thousandths of "slop", this will be filled in with epoxy later.

Put together, these will fit around the tang. Measure carefully again and drill a hole through each scale to match the hole that already exists in the MH tang (where the lanyard tube is on the stock model). Use this hole for a pin or tube that fits all the way through both scales and the tang - this will prevent the new handle from sliding off. Then basically assemble the whole thing (including the tube or pin) on the tang with a layer of good slow-curing epoxy on all the mating surfaces, let it sit overnight and shape the handle as desired.

Obviously I've left out a bunch of details, but that's the basic idea. Check the stickies in the ShopTalk forum for more instructions or send me a pm with any questions.

You will need to decide if you want to use the stock sheath; if you do you'll need to build a guard that's very close to the original so it will snap securely into the sheath.

Ironwood is great stuff but it's pricy and somewhat tricky to work with. I wouldn't recommend it for your first project. Micarta is a fine choice.

Here's a MH I rebuilt for a client a few weeks ago. I made this one with a solid block of G10 rather than mortised scales, but the general idea is the same.

 

[southernfryedyankee]

That is AWESOME! I am not 100% sure if I am a fan of the guard or not but it most certainly adds to the flavor of that knife.

 

[james terrio]

That client wanted his as close to the original size and shape as possible. You could shape the front of a guardless handle like Samek's to snap into the sheath if you wanted. Or if you're going to make a new sheath, make it however the heck you want

 

[killgar]

Make sure you wear a protective mask when grinding/sanding G-10. It can be very hazardous to your health if you breath it in.

 

[james terrio]

Killgar is correct. I would amend that to say, where wear a respirator when grinding anything.

 

[southernfryedyankee]

James, I tried to PM you. I think you would be proud buddy.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1011714-Did-my-very-first-re-handle-today

 

[james terrio]

Nice work. If you're careful you could still put a pin or tube through it.