What is the best way to strip crinkle coating.

After a finish is stripped and scoch brighted to satisfaction would any additional work need to be done to shore up the blade against rust?

I assume if you dont use scotch bright it would be even more of a worry since the surface would be pitted and therefore collect and hold moisture easier.

Just a good cleaning every now and again? How does infi hold up to water, rust, salt water?
 
I use Renaissance Wax - Good stuff!!!

Check ebay or at DLTTradingCompany.com

http://www.dlttradingcompany.com/index.php?cPath=224&osCsid=a61a2b419280790e9a747c577fca84c1


Comes in a can that looks like this:

200ml.jpg


This wax was engineered for museum artifacts.
A 200 ml can will last through MANY applications - Many hundreds if not over a thousand (????). I have barely made a dent in mine and I have had it for a couple of years. I don't wax all of my knives though. Just ones that are rust prone.

The wax is easy and fast to apply. Like car wax, rub a little on, let dry, then buff off. Easy and fast. Once buffed off, it is not oily and greasy like oil and grease. The bladed can be handled (Fondled...) without mess.

However, the wax does have a strong odor that will fill up a room in a house. Do it outside or put the lid back on the can quickly. At least it is not a smell that lingers. It goes away.


INFI actually has a fair amount of chromium and although not stainless and it will rust, it is usually just fine if dry enough. It doesn't seem to "readily" rust. But, it CAN rust. INFI has about 8.25% chromium. Steel is usually considered stainless if it has at least 13% chromium.

I actually haven't felt the need to wax my INFI that I store inside. But, if you leave INFI say in a car, I would. Cars have significant temperature swings that induces condensation on dense metal like knife steel blades. Or if you just know it will be stored for a long time, I would wax the blades for protection.

SR-101 will rust fairly easily - 1.3% - 1.6% chromium, but I still have a lot in my house that does fine even without wax - as long as it is kept fairly dry.

SR-77 is closer to SR-101 - 3.25% chromium, but not quite as prone to rust as SR-101. SR-77 is more prone to rust than INFI.

Chromium is not the only factor in a steels ability to rust or resist rust. But, it is generally a decent indicator.

I never store my non-stainless steel in leather sheaths. Kydex is OK.

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The scotch-brite is the last stage fro my knives. And I use it for touch up every so often. But I have had no problems with rust if I just keep wipe my knives down after each use. But no experience with them around salt water yet.
 
DWRW I really appreciate the time you spent posting your valuable and informative responses. Compared to you I'm a relative newbie but try my best to share, whenever I can, what little knowledge and experience I've gained. These forums are such an amazing resource and a nice e-community to boot.
 
As Damn the Man mentioned above, some knives have the INFI dimples (read huge pits) at the ricasso. Some older knives were very coarsely finished under the coating (36 grit?), partly because the coating was thought to stick better that way. Looks like the newer blades are really nice under the coating, but you never know.
 
My FFBM has very shallow pits and just a couple of machining marks near the recasso. I was surprised at how smooth it came out. :)
 
theonew,

Your welcome. Glad I can help. I think there are some helpful guys around here that want to help.

Truthfully, I tend to post over on Scrap Yard's and Swamp Rat's forums more often.

I would prefer to be able to buy a lot more INFI. I have a couple, but because of the price, I am honestly more of a Rat / Dog.

I like my blades satin though. I am not too fond of coated blades. Busse tends to like coated blades or to charge a LOT for satin. So, I tend to have to strip a lot of my own blades.
Truthfully, I find it frustrating to spend so much on a knife that I feel so compelled to strip down and finish. Paying a lot for project knives! :(

But, Busse steel is some of the best in the industry.

It can be intimidating at first to start hacking on $100 - $400 knives.

It is much easier if you know it is going to be a user that you know you will keep. But, I can't stress enough, stripping the coating is a cakewalk..... finishing the stripped blades to industry standards is a lot trickier and even trickier still when the handles are already attached.

As Doberman Dave said, some of the knives are better than others - although, I haven't personally figured out the pattern. Most are pretty darn rough with pits and machine marks.

But, I am getting better at finishing them with practice. ;) :thumbup:

I also can't stress enough about practicing on cheap blades if you decide to try your hand at a belt sander.

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WOW , Thanks alot for info . Stripped my scrapper 6 to night during NCIS .I used a product called dads paint remover,it took the coating completely off in 15 min.hit it with a high pressure hose . I was shocked how clean it came out . Used my d-a air sander with some 320 grit .Krazy , first one I've tried . Heres a couple of bad pics of what you can do in under 40 minutes . Thanks again for posting the how to.
DSCN1589.jpg
DSCN1590.jpg
 
Going to take to my hardware store and sand on it for 1/2 a day .can't wait .
 
I stripped my meaner street and it looks great I will show some pics later. Thanks for all the helpful info.
 
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