What is the clay in clay quenched?

C

cgdavid

Joined
Sep 12, 2005
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85
I have an understanding of what you do and what you are trying to achieve by applying clay to a blade prior to heat treating but I've not run across what the 'clay' is. Can someone fill me in or point me to a resource?

Thanks...Curt
 
Once I get set back up I've often wondered how quick set drywall mud would work or even Fixall. The small amount of clay that is actually used it just doesn't seem like it would make a difference unless it won't hold up to the heat. One of the things I've done with the clay is mix in a small amount of vermiculite to add to the insulating properties. Also to help keep what ever it is you want to use from falling off make a few wraps with iron wire and it will give it something to hold onto.
 
I use satanite as well, usually with some wood ash mixed in. My stuff always falls off after it's done, (knock on wood) which makes clean up easier. When I was out of satanite a while back I picked up some poly modified high temperature mortar to play with, supposed to survive to like 2300 degrees, not enough to line a forge, but I'd think it was good enough for clay coating..... never did play with it though, darren got my satanite too me before I expected it.

Tony
 
I got a bright idea and mixed some "Charcoal-Grill" ashes with my Satanite........... Trying to get back to basics you know........

Well.........I guess I should have strained the ashes first, because those little "specks" of unburned charcoal mixed with Satanite resulted in a "Polka-Dotted" hamon when etched...........Not a good idea :grumpy:

Children....Pay attention.........Never try this at home.........We are professionals.... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Robert
 
Do you think a standard clay (aka powdered kitty litter) with some ground vermiculite would work? Maybe a little fiberglass thrown in to make things hang together - carbon fiber might even work better as it moves heat fast.


Keep in mind that I don't have a forge. Have an OA torch, a small stack of O1 steel plus enough old files to sink a ship.

Thanks...Curt
 
cgdavid, someone once mentioned on this forum that there was a product at places like Lowes that would work. Seems it was some sort of clay or paste used to patch up or fix fireplaces. Came in a tube I think. Sorry I can't be of more help!
 
I belive it was Chiro75 talking about imperial stove and fireplace cement. You can buy it in the fireplace isle of lowes.
 
High temperature furnace cement.Get it at old style hardware stores or the warehouse place (Lowe's,Home depot) works well.May need a few drops of water to thin it up.Adding fine ashes makes it creamier.As ROOSKO found out,sift the ash through a fine sieve first.
The rice ash mentioned is - rice STRAW ash ,used for everything from welding flux to clay coating,to polishing,and many things in-between,by the traditional Japanese smiths.
Stacy
 
Greetings,

Rick Barrett gave a heat treating demo at Ashokan in 2004. At that time he was using Rutland Furnace Cement to coat his blades. He showed us some very nice hamons that he had achieved using the cement. Rick stated that the cement sticks very well and needs little, if any, drying time. He did note that it puffs up quite a bit when you heat it, so you need to be careful how thickly you apply it. The Rutland cement seems to be available at most any hardware store, ex. http://www.acehardware.com/sm-rutland-furnace-cement-pack--pi-1308063.html

Hope this helps. -Chris
 
I use Satanite with some ash mixed in. We are lucky up here to have a lot of poplar trees (beaver food). Poplar doesn't give off as much heat as oak or maple when burning, in fact it kind of sucks as firewood, but it leaves a fine white ash. The Natives used it for treating stomach ailments. Anyway, thats what I use. I don't bother screening it. I just pick out any big chunks and I haven't had any troubles yet.
 
I don't believe its practical to do clay hardening with an OA. torch, simple because you need to heat the entire blade to get the benifit of using the clay. Adding potters clay[dry powder] to the furnace cement makes it a lot more cohesive. One part clay to three parts furnace cement is a good mix.
JAMS, Fred
 
I am not a maker but consumer of various Smiths and makers. I would take all adivce, but the person who consistantly can produce a Hamon in the steel I use would be my target. If is is true that some steels show better hardning line production, I would also seek that individual. You have probably already hit on the solution though. Making sure the light in the shop is off a second time is OK.

This is a fine group of talented people, better than I have seen in 40+ years of puchasing knives.

Floyd O`Leary

If I should not post here do not kick me, I am old. Just tell me to go away.
 
FWO said:
I am not a maker but consumer of various Smiths and makers. I would take all adivce, but the person who consistantly can produce a Hamon in the steel I use would be my target. If is is true that some steels show better hardning line production, I would also seek that individual. You have probably already hit on the solution though. Making sure the light in the shop is off a second time is OK.

This is a fine group of talented people, better than I have seen in 40+ years of puchasing knives.

Floyd O`Leary

If I should not post here do not kick me, I am old. Just tell me to go away.
Click to expand...
Floyd, If you have been purchasing knives for 40 years you have all the credentials it takes to post here. An old forge saying:"You are not really considered old untill you stop pounding your hammer" Fred
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here's one I just finished up today....1095 with just plain ol' satanite, water quenched:

karma.jpg


I don't mix mine with anything but water
 
S.Shepherd said:
here's one I just finished up today....1095 with just plain ol' satanite, water quenched:

karma.jpg


I don't mix mine with anything but water
Click to expand...
:cool: S.:cool:That is going to be one fine hamon when you get it pollished out. I, for one would like to see it finished. Fred
 
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