- Joined
- Jul 16, 2005
- Messages
- 2,150
Trust me, I know those are sweet knives.:thumbup:
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
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What is the right hunting knife for me? Knives?
- Thread starter headwatermike
- Start date
Trust me, I know those are sweet knives.:thumbup:
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2005
- Messages
- 2,150
They look decent but their draw seems to be the handles. As much as I appreciate good handles with guys like Bob Dozier,Gene Ingramm, and Bark River it's more about the steel. Those guys know how to grind and heat treat.:thumbup:
Kershaw makes a blade trader set for large game which has a monster zipper blade. If you can put up with a separate zipper, try a super steel knife such as a Spyderco Endura with a ZDP-189 blade or a Kershaw Shallot with an S110V blade. Either is in the $100.00 range.
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2001
- Messages
- 801
Good choice on the Knives of Alaska combo. My go to hunting knife is their kodi-skinner model in AUS8 and it has held up for 20 years on game from moose to antelope. I am like you and I love the gut hook. Lots of naysayers against gut hooks, but used right it makes quick work of zipping them open.
I also use my customs, but the KOA skinner is always in my pack
I also use my customs, but the KOA skinner is always in my pack
- Joined
- May 22, 2010
- Messages
- 6
Update and Review:
http://www.knivesofalaska.com/store.asp?c=42
I got the set from Knives of Alaska. It is a set with a knife called the Whitetail Hunter and a small caping knife, the Bear Cub I think. This season they were along for multiple big game kills, as well as bird hunting and fishing. Most notably, my wife and I took 3 antelope, 2 deer, and 4 elk.
I also regularily use in the field:
Buck 691 (440HC?)
Benchmade skinner in D2
Browning White River Skinner (440C)
Buck 110
Leatherman
I have used this knife set now quite a bit, and think that I've given them a fair shake. I feel inclined to provide a review. Sadly, I've been very disappointed by this product, at most every turn. Please forgive me, as I am not a knife buff and don't know much about various alloys and the tendencies of each one, so bear with me.
Originally I didn't like the KOA knives b/c of the poor fit and finish of the product. However, I use knives as tools, and can live with a poor fit. However, this knife set is pretty bad. Besides my original gripe of having the scales poorly fitted (about 1/16" off from where they belong), with the mold tabs still attached, the metal finish on the caper is boiled (like paint over rust on a vehicle) and streaked. Is there some sort of laquer finish? It looks like silver paint. The defect is only around the bear picture, about an inch long. It does not flake or change. This issue is not a big deal to me, just further indication of poor workmanship. The scales are not loose. The Whitetail Hunter has no such finish problem.
I cannot get the Bear Cub to sharpen. I've sharpened alot of knives, and sometimes it takes me awhile to get the edge the way I like. This is not the problem. I just can't get it to take an edge. This is a knife that I need to be able to get sharp like a razor to be very functional. Big disappointment.
The WH took some time to get where I wanted it. It does sharpen up pretty nicely, but not like a Buck knife. My other knife in D2 is hard to get very sharp, too. They act about the same. As far as the edge goes, I would like it to stay sharp proportionally to how difficult it is to get sharp. I will not buy another knife in D2, as I just seem to spend alot more time sharpening than I get in extended cut time. I came to this conclusion while skinning, quartering, and de-boning the frame on 4 elk in one day. I used several knives in conjunction. I can use a steel to touch up my Buck 691 and have it cutting great again in moments. It takes alot more with the D2, but it doesn't seem to last that much longer. In fact, it never cuts as well to start, but seems to be at that semi-sharp stage for quite awhile. It does take a long time to really dull. I was hoping the guthook would work better than on the Buck, but it clogs about as quickly. A guthook was one of my criteria in a knife that led me to KOA. Originally the wife bought me their Light Hunter. I returned it, but was impressed with the guthook. However, it was built like a hatchet--heavy and very thick, right down to the edge. I have no idea why they call it a "Light" Hunter. The Whitetail hunter on the other hand is quite thin and very light. I like that for all of the elevation I hike while elk hunting. I also like the option to hold the knife forward for better grip and leverage, but I'm not sure it is worth giving up an inch of cutting edge. The legth of the blade helps in reaching far enough to cut around the pooper in the pelvis region of an elk. The V notches on the back of the blade, for thumb traction, are unfortunately small and close. They give great grip, but are impossible to clean. Mine have rust in them, even after a concerted effort to clean out crud. It is a poor design.
Sadly, even the sheath is lacking. It seemed actually to be a high point, nicely built and durable. However, the gut hook of the WH hangs up on a flap of leather and sometimes you have to really maneuver and pull the knife in a less-than-safe manner.
I will not buy KOA again. There just is not very much I like about these knives. I am very disappointed. I will also never buy for a guthook. I overlooked so many knives to try to get a guthook, and ended up making a compromise. I will simply buy a separate guthook, as I do like the speed of using one. Simple solution, but I had overlooked it.
I hope that I don't offend any KOA fans with my review, this is just what I found. I am trying to be as fair as possible, but am really unhappy with this knife set. As I said, I am a hunter and knife user, but not an afficianado. I'm not an expert, but my hunting buddies often come to me for help in sharpening knives, as some have noticed mine are always very sharp. Generally I know what works for me and what does not. I have definately learned from this experience, though.
http://www.knivesofalaska.com/store.asp?c=42
I got the set from Knives of Alaska. It is a set with a knife called the Whitetail Hunter and a small caping knife, the Bear Cub I think. This season they were along for multiple big game kills, as well as bird hunting and fishing. Most notably, my wife and I took 3 antelope, 2 deer, and 4 elk.
I also regularily use in the field:
Buck 691 (440HC?)
Benchmade skinner in D2
Browning White River Skinner (440C)
Buck 110
Leatherman
I have used this knife set now quite a bit, and think that I've given them a fair shake. I feel inclined to provide a review. Sadly, I've been very disappointed by this product, at most every turn. Please forgive me, as I am not a knife buff and don't know much about various alloys and the tendencies of each one, so bear with me.
Originally I didn't like the KOA knives b/c of the poor fit and finish of the product. However, I use knives as tools, and can live with a poor fit. However, this knife set is pretty bad. Besides my original gripe of having the scales poorly fitted (about 1/16" off from where they belong), with the mold tabs still attached, the metal finish on the caper is boiled (like paint over rust on a vehicle) and streaked. Is there some sort of laquer finish? It looks like silver paint. The defect is only around the bear picture, about an inch long. It does not flake or change. This issue is not a big deal to me, just further indication of poor workmanship. The scales are not loose. The Whitetail Hunter has no such finish problem.
I cannot get the Bear Cub to sharpen. I've sharpened alot of knives, and sometimes it takes me awhile to get the edge the way I like. This is not the problem. I just can't get it to take an edge. This is a knife that I need to be able to get sharp like a razor to be very functional. Big disappointment.
The WH took some time to get where I wanted it. It does sharpen up pretty nicely, but not like a Buck knife. My other knife in D2 is hard to get very sharp, too. They act about the same. As far as the edge goes, I would like it to stay sharp proportionally to how difficult it is to get sharp. I will not buy another knife in D2, as I just seem to spend alot more time sharpening than I get in extended cut time. I came to this conclusion while skinning, quartering, and de-boning the frame on 4 elk in one day. I used several knives in conjunction. I can use a steel to touch up my Buck 691 and have it cutting great again in moments. It takes alot more with the D2, but it doesn't seem to last that much longer. In fact, it never cuts as well to start, but seems to be at that semi-sharp stage for quite awhile. It does take a long time to really dull. I was hoping the guthook would work better than on the Buck, but it clogs about as quickly. A guthook was one of my criteria in a knife that led me to KOA. Originally the wife bought me their Light Hunter. I returned it, but was impressed with the guthook. However, it was built like a hatchet--heavy and very thick, right down to the edge. I have no idea why they call it a "Light" Hunter. The Whitetail hunter on the other hand is quite thin and very light. I like that for all of the elevation I hike while elk hunting. I also like the option to hold the knife forward for better grip and leverage, but I'm not sure it is worth giving up an inch of cutting edge. The legth of the blade helps in reaching far enough to cut around the pooper in the pelvis region of an elk. The V notches on the back of the blade, for thumb traction, are unfortunately small and close. They give great grip, but are impossible to clean. Mine have rust in them, even after a concerted effort to clean out crud. It is a poor design.
Sadly, even the sheath is lacking. It seemed actually to be a high point, nicely built and durable. However, the gut hook of the WH hangs up on a flap of leather and sometimes you have to really maneuver and pull the knife in a less-than-safe manner.
I will not buy KOA again. There just is not very much I like about these knives. I am very disappointed. I will also never buy for a guthook. I overlooked so many knives to try to get a guthook, and ended up making a compromise. I will simply buy a separate guthook, as I do like the speed of using one. Simple solution, but I had overlooked it.
I hope that I don't offend any KOA fans with my review, this is just what I found. I am trying to be as fair as possible, but am really unhappy with this knife set. As I said, I am a hunter and knife user, but not an afficianado. I'm not an expert, but my hunting buddies often come to me for help in sharpening knives, as some have noticed mine are always very sharp. Generally I know what works for me and what does not. I have definately learned from this experience, though.
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2010
- Messages
- 2,129
D2 steel at the RC that KOA uses is difficult to sharpen if you're not used to it. Compared to the commonly used steels in factory knives like 440A, the AUS series, 420HC (Buck) etc, it's a whole new ballgame. Once you get it sharp, D2 will keep an excellent cutting edge for a long time. 440C can be a bit of a challenge to get sharp, but not overly difficult. Not meaning to offend you, but I think that your sharpening skills are outclassed by the steels you've chosen.
I actually just sold a Silver Stag Pacific Bowie. It was a REALLY nice knife, just not my cup of tea. They have fabulous fit and finish, and if you are into stag crown handles and such, good leather sheaths, you'll love them. They are 100% manufactured in the U.S.A. There are, in essence, 3 generations of the company's blades. 1st gen blades were 420J2, not the best performer. Listening to customer demands, the 2nd gen blades were 440C (I had one of these). In the last couple of years, with the demand for high carbon tool steels rising again, they now do their knives in D2 and 1095. For a factory blade, they would be a good choice as a knife to pass down to family. There's a video on youtube that tours their factory.
Factory knives that may be up your alley could be the Kabar line (the Becker Necker and Eskabar are great for game), the ESEE offerings, Fallkniven, some of the higher end Buck offerings, and the Gerber Freeman series in S30V.
In your price range, $100-$200, there are more than several makers on here who will produce the blade of your dreams. It will be nicer than any factory blade in the same range (for the most part), it will hold an edge and cut considerably better as well. Go the makers forums, and also browse their websites. The value and selection is incredible. They all have "standard" offerings at good prices, but they will also produce whatever you'd like to have. Names that come to mind are Wohlwend, Hargis, Breeden, Andrews.... Go the knifemakers forum and for sale area. It's worth the time.
Also browse the individual for sale area, custom knives. You can get some excellent deals on there, many times on new, unused knives.
To be honest, it's hard for me to spend over $100 on a factory blade when I know I can get a better knife from a maker on here for just a little bit more. I'd stay away from the stainless myself (die hard carbon steel lover here). Look for knives in 1075, 1080, 1095, O1, 50100b, 52100, to name a few. They are going to be easy to sharpen, easy to touch up, and hold an excellent edge. In stainless, I like the Sandvik steels like 12c27, 13c26, 14c28N. They aren't "super" steels, but they sharpen extremely easily and will hold an excellent edge that's easy to restore.
BTW, I don't think leaf springs have ever been done from D2. It's a tough steel with high wear resistance, but it's not a high impact steel (flexibility, etc). Almost all leaf springs are 5160 high carbon, but I know that 1095 has been used as well.
I actually just sold a Silver Stag Pacific Bowie. It was a REALLY nice knife, just not my cup of tea. They have fabulous fit and finish, and if you are into stag crown handles and such, good leather sheaths, you'll love them. They are 100% manufactured in the U.S.A. There are, in essence, 3 generations of the company's blades. 1st gen blades were 420J2, not the best performer. Listening to customer demands, the 2nd gen blades were 440C (I had one of these). In the last couple of years, with the demand for high carbon tool steels rising again, they now do their knives in D2 and 1095. For a factory blade, they would be a good choice as a knife to pass down to family. There's a video on youtube that tours their factory.
Factory knives that may be up your alley could be the Kabar line (the Becker Necker and Eskabar are great for game), the ESEE offerings, Fallkniven, some of the higher end Buck offerings, and the Gerber Freeman series in S30V.
In your price range, $100-$200, there are more than several makers on here who will produce the blade of your dreams. It will be nicer than any factory blade in the same range (for the most part), it will hold an edge and cut considerably better as well. Go the makers forums, and also browse their websites. The value and selection is incredible. They all have "standard" offerings at good prices, but they will also produce whatever you'd like to have. Names that come to mind are Wohlwend, Hargis, Breeden, Andrews.... Go the knifemakers forum and for sale area. It's worth the time.
Also browse the individual for sale area, custom knives. You can get some excellent deals on there, many times on new, unused knives.
To be honest, it's hard for me to spend over $100 on a factory blade when I know I can get a better knife from a maker on here for just a little bit more. I'd stay away from the stainless myself (die hard carbon steel lover here). Look for knives in 1075, 1080, 1095, O1, 50100b, 52100, to name a few. They are going to be easy to sharpen, easy to touch up, and hold an excellent edge. In stainless, I like the Sandvik steels like 12c27, 13c26, 14c28N. They aren't "super" steels, but they sharpen extremely easily and will hold an excellent edge that's easy to restore.
BTW, I don't think leaf springs have ever been done from D2. It's a tough steel with high wear resistance, but it's not a high impact steel (flexibility, etc). Almost all leaf springs are 5160 high carbon, but I know that 1095 has been used as well.
- Joined
- May 22, 2010
- Messages
- 6
Thanks Cramsey. Knife shopping is pretty much over for now. Actually, I have a Cold Steel Master Hunter in Carbon V on its way now, but that is just for the heck of it.
It did take a long time to sharpen the WH with a natural stone. A long time! I did get the knife sharp and dullened it several times. It isn't my first D2 knife, and I have been getting faster at sharpening them. I used the knife quite a bit in processing the big game listed. With that much cutting (alot), I'm pretty sure that it doesn't get as sharp as other steels. I could be wrong. What's more, I feel like I spend a disproportionate amount of time sharpening to cutting with the D2 knives.
Also, I would like to add that if the KOA knives didn't cost as much, I wouldn't be as critical. Looking at the entire picture, cost vs performance, workmanship, etc, I just don't think I'll be back for more.
It did take a long time to sharpen the WH with a natural stone. A long time! I did get the knife sharp and dullened it several times. It isn't my first D2 knife, and I have been getting faster at sharpening them. I used the knife quite a bit in processing the big game listed. With that much cutting (alot), I'm pretty sure that it doesn't get as sharp as other steels. I could be wrong. What's more, I feel like I spend a disproportionate amount of time sharpening to cutting with the D2 knives.
Also, I would like to add that if the KOA knives didn't cost as much, I wouldn't be as critical. Looking at the entire picture, cost vs performance, workmanship, etc, I just don't think I'll be back for more.
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Messages
- 3,950
Get a swamp Ratmandu. Its what I use for hunting and its great. Fantastic ergonomics and a rougly 5 or so inch blade. Its a wonnderful knife and you won't find anything on the market at the same price that has as good edge retention. SR 101 is amazing- takes a razor edge and holds it like nothing I've ever seen. You can buy one for 150 on the exchange and pick up a sheath for 30 bucks.
Or you could try an ESEE 4 for 100 bucks. Great knife with 1095 that holds an awesome edge.
Also you could pick up a fallkniven F1 for about 110 if you want stainless or go on ebay and get a Cold Steel master hunter san mai for 80.
Or you could try an ESEE 4 for 100 bucks. Great knife with 1095 that holds an awesome edge.
Also you could pick up a fallkniven F1 for about 110 if you want stainless or go on ebay and get a Cold Steel master hunter san mai for 80.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,196
First off I will at least give you credit for sharpening a D2 blade on natural stones, its a difficult steel even for better tools and the more skilled. Second, your sharpening issues with this steel will be related to your sharpening tools mainly. All steels will reach a similar level of sharpness just some need to be sharpened with different tools to get their in a timely manor.
If you would like to continue to use high performance steels a few diamond stones or some good waterstones would do wonders.
Sorry to hear of your experiences with KOA. If you are still looking for a good hunting blade then I'd suggest one of our custom makers, carbon steel with a high Rc would be my choice.
If you would like to continue to use high performance steels a few diamond stones or some good waterstones would do wonders.
Sorry to hear of your experiences with KOA. If you are still looking for a good hunting blade then I'd suggest one of our custom makers, carbon steel with a high Rc would be my choice.
DennisStrickland
BANNED
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2009
- Messages
- 5,040
knifenut 1013 really knows his steels & how to sharpen them. i remember some years back i was trying to sharpen an eye trapper on a soft arkansas stone & the carbon steel was so hard the stone would'nt work. really i believe you need to get a 8 in. minimum dmt combo blue & red diamond.the good heattreated carbon knives last me thru 3 whitetails. i've hunted in idaho where you had to bone the meat off , put into plastic bags & then pack out of the mountains. the amount of game you & your wife are taking means you need excellent blades. the barkrivers in carbon, [a2 & 3v] & the doziers in d2 among others will mean lots less time sharpening & more time cutting. standing on the mountain side at 25 degrees in the wind means you need to do quick cutting w/o stopping to sharpen. a search in the forum will put you in touch with custom makers that can make a good hunting knife for less than 200$. i have a custom 06 hunter that will gut & skin 3 deer & still shave hair. i've never seen a hunting knife with a guthook that was great, we all use the blade replacable wyoming skinner to do the initial neck to pelvis opening. after that we go to our hunting knives. you can pack a small dmt stone to touchup your knives if needed. the bevels need to be thin so you're not trying to put an edge on a chisel edge. hope this helps---you may need to spend 250$ on a good hunter & do buy the dmt diamond bench stones. hunting needs to be fun not a grueling cleaning & skinning exercise.
dennis
dennis
- Joined
- May 22, 2010
- Messages
- 6
Thanks guys.
I did get a flat diamond stone for use on the D2 steel. It helped tremendously on the time issues for sharpening the two D2 knives. It gobbles up steel even though it is listed as "fine". This solved much of my sharpening issue with the D2. I still can't get the little "cub" blade to take a good edge and I don't know why. I got the KOA Whitetail very sharp.
Dennis, thanks for your input. I have given up on getting the combo blade with the guthook and am planning to do as you suggest with the separate guthook. We also sometimes de-bone animals completely in the field, and it does take alot of cutting. I sometimes bring several knives to speed things up (esp for elk), but it would be nice to have one that lasted as you describe. I can skin and debone an entire antelope with my Buck knife just getting dull to where I would sharpen. I find it irritating and dangerous to work with a dull knife. I don't think any knife will probably skin and debone an elk and still be very sharp, but I'm sure there is room for improvement over my current stable. Maybe the KOA with proper sharpening tools will help here, but I won't know until next season, as I never make time for spring bear hunting. Also, I do like the bevel on knives to slightly thinner, as they touch up so much easier and seem to start sharper. It seems to me that I often get knives that have too steep of an angle to start, at least for my taste.
This year was sort of an exeptional task on cutting, as we had 4 elk down at the same time and had to debone and quarter them for the pack all at once. I don't want to get in that situation again!
I received a Carbon V Master Hunter in the mean time. It seems like a fine knife--I love the rubberized grip and good balance. The sheath is plastic and webbing--ugly but light, safe, and functional. The steel is noticeably softer than the D2. I picked it up for $50 and figure that if it doesn't work out I might trade up for a Bark River or Falkniven and try them.
Here are six of the dozen elk quarters as left after preping them for the pack out--there would have been 16 but 4 of the fronts were shot to the point where it made more sense to debone on the spot:
I did get a flat diamond stone for use on the D2 steel. It helped tremendously on the time issues for sharpening the two D2 knives. It gobbles up steel even though it is listed as "fine". This solved much of my sharpening issue with the D2. I still can't get the little "cub" blade to take a good edge and I don't know why. I got the KOA Whitetail very sharp.
Dennis, thanks for your input. I have given up on getting the combo blade with the guthook and am planning to do as you suggest with the separate guthook. We also sometimes de-bone animals completely in the field, and it does take alot of cutting. I sometimes bring several knives to speed things up (esp for elk), but it would be nice to have one that lasted as you describe. I can skin and debone an entire antelope with my Buck knife just getting dull to where I would sharpen. I find it irritating and dangerous to work with a dull knife. I don't think any knife will probably skin and debone an elk and still be very sharp, but I'm sure there is room for improvement over my current stable. Maybe the KOA with proper sharpening tools will help here, but I won't know until next season, as I never make time for spring bear hunting. Also, I do like the bevel on knives to slightly thinner, as they touch up so much easier and seem to start sharper. It seems to me that I often get knives that have too steep of an angle to start, at least for my taste.
This year was sort of an exeptional task on cutting, as we had 4 elk down at the same time and had to debone and quarter them for the pack all at once. I don't want to get in that situation again!
I received a Carbon V Master Hunter in the mean time. It seems like a fine knife--I love the rubberized grip and good balance. The sheath is plastic and webbing--ugly but light, safe, and functional. The steel is noticeably softer than the D2. I picked it up for $50 and figure that if it doesn't work out I might trade up for a Bark River or Falkniven and try them.
Here are six of the dozen elk quarters as left after preping them for the pack out--there would have been 16 but 4 of the fronts were shot to the point where it made more sense to debone on the spot: