What is up with my Para 2?

jylong_away said:
If I'm not mistaken, while the 'top' part of the liner lock is cut so that it doesn't follow the curve of the G10 handle, the 'bottom' part is cut out much less compared to the 'first run' PM2s. You sorta have to look down into the guts of both runs to see that.

a bit hard to visualize, but the locking liner of my first run PM2 is shaped like the 'traditional' comp lock - just like the shape of the lock liner on, for example, the SS ATR. It's relatively narrow, and almost hooks down towards the tang end.

The S90V PM2, however, had a comp lock liner that looks a bit more like a 'liner lock' - a wider, straight strip. Wouldn't that make the tension greater?

'course I ain't an engineer, so I can't say for certain ;P Not trying to get into an argument or anything - just trying to understand better. That, plus the OP has already said that spring tension isn't the problem ;)

Undertow: does the comp lock engage and stick early on the tang? If it does, I'd keep it and see if it wears in. I always feel that earlier engagement is better in a user knife. Mine took maybe a couple of weeks to wear in, with lots of playing with the knife - it's addictive!
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It is hard to tell what you are describing but it sounds like you are talking about the piece that actually lodges between the blade tang and the stop pin. I was talking about the lock bar further back where it actually bends. Here a more narrow piece of metal will bend easier. I don't have a gen 1 para 2 so I am going on pictures and what others have said. Multiple people have said the lock bar is easier to push over on the S90V gen 2 version. Here is a post that includes some pictures showing where it necks down on the top. Regardless, it doesn't sound like that is the problem and there must be something else causing the lock to stick on his knife.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9081483&postcount=30
 
dsmegst said:
I find that pinching the lock, bracing the handle with my thumb and disengaging the lock with my index finger is the easiest.
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I agree that ergonomically that is the best way but as of yet, both my Para 2's are still somewhat hard to depress so I'll be using my thumb for now.

I'm gonna take an above posters suggestion and stop lubing the tang and see if that helps.

I've noticed that if I flick it open, it seems to bind up further, I assume because it allows the lock tab to sink further into its path, making it harder to unbind. When I open it slowly the tab is much easier.

Thanks for all the help and insight into the situation, yall
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
It is hard to tell what you are describing but it sounds like you are talking about the piece that actually lodges between the blade tang and the stop pin. I was talking about the lock bar further back where it actually bends. Here a more narrow piece of metal will bend easier. I don't have a gen 1 para 2 so I am going on pictures and what others have said. Multiple people have said the lock bar is easier to push over on the S90V gen 2 version. Here is a post that includes some pictures showing where it necks down on the top. Regardless, it doesn't sound like that is the problem and there must be something else causing the lock to stick on his knife.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9081483&postcount=30
Click to expand...

I think we're talking about the same part of the lock. With the S90V version, though, the bottom edge of that lock liner is cut lower down as well, resulting in an overall wider strip.

The first run seemed to have to problem of the detent ball 'catching' the blade even if the lock tab/liner was pushed all the way across until it touched the handle scale. Could never get it to 'swing' closed or open smoothly. Not 100% sure how they fixed it, but it looks like the might have milled the handle a bit deeper on that side to allow the lock liner to mive farther across so the detent fully disengages.
 
I took delivery today of a sprint run pm2 and I got a gem. Opens like butter, nice lock up and easy disengage of the lock. One hand closing is easy , thumb on g10 , middle finger on lock and index to close it. I'm lovin this one:D:thumbup::D
 
KTMADV said:
I took delivery today of a sprint run pm2 and I got a gem. Opens like butter, nice lock up and easy disengage of the lock. One hand closing is easy , thumb on g10 , middle finger on lock and index to close it. I'm lovin this one:D:thumbup::D
Click to expand...

Correction: thumb on "carbon fiber."
 
I'm also having problems with my Para 2's lock binding badly. I have the technique down, but it binds every time. I cleaned the lock face really well to ensure there was no lube on there, tried the pencil and Sharpie trick, and have cycled the lock about 1,000 times. It still binds like hell. I'm going to give it a while to try to break in some more.

It's the only thing that bothers me about the Para 2. The opening and closing is smooth with exception of disengaging the lock.
 
Update to my above post. The lock binds and sticks even worse now that I've cycled it about 1,000 more times. It now is necessary to use a thumb to disengage the lock. I'll be sticking to my Para 1 until I get it figgered out.
 
Sounds like a big burr or something. Time to send it back for another one or warranty work IMO. Spyderco will look after you if the retailer won't.
 
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