What kind of clay??

C

Chris'knives

Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
22
What kind of clay can be used to get a great looking hamon? Can you get it locally or just through knife suppliers?
Thanks
Chris
 
Satinite, works great. Heat, steel type are also important. I get best results from 1095 and w2. Quenched in Parks 50.
 
At times. No big deal just fish out the pieces. I get best results letting it dry overnight. Hamons are like a box of chocolate's you never know what your gonna get,(quote: Forest Gump)
 
Tinbasher said:
Does it break off into your oil at all ???

Richard
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Not very often, usually have to scrape it off. I mix it to the consistency of a milkshake or sour cream and put it on a fresh 150 sanded blade and immediately into the forge.
 
Thank you for the info gents, I didn't know how to use it before, now to find some in the land down under.

Richard
 
If you come up empty with the satanite, some folks have good luck with furnace cement. Maybe search for the Rutlands brand and see if there's anything comparable in your neck of the woods.

Good luck with it, Craig
 
Here's a homemade clay recipe from French maker Yann Reynal De Saint Michel, he does some great traditional Japanese blade work. This was posted on another forum with his blessings for everyone to try and experiment with.


Hello everybody.

I was wondering why you do not quench with the traditional mix. It works every time. After the quench, the thick layer of clay is still sticking to the blade, and the hardened area is shiny if the operation was successful. My magic mix is 4 parts powdered brick, one part of raku clay (low temperature clay, very easy to find at any ceramic supplier) and for the yakiba tsuchi one part clay (same type) one part brick powder and one part charcoal.

Each component must be very finely powdered. I use the mix with charcoal for the ashi. The thickest part on the spine is 2 millimeters thick.
I run my charcoal fire and make my clay drying above it. The clay never shrink . As soon as it's dry, I put it in charcoal and let it cook without adding air. Then comes the good time..

The tricky part is to quench at the right temp. Too hot, and the clay pop off in water, but quench at the right temp and you'll really get a very good hamon.

I think that all those mix and grind activities to get a good clay are part of the hardening process and help you to obtain the state of mind for heating your blade and make your mind on the right moment.
 
I have tried both furnace cement and satanite. I have had better results with the furnace cement which seems to be the opposite of most people's experience. Not sure why, but it works for me.

-Mike
 
Chris, Here is a link to a good thread on making a hamon. I take it thats what your after.http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604748
Is this the type of result you are seeking
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