What knife do you have the most fun using?

Anyone know where I can get an accurate appraisal for a Bill Moran knife from 1964?

Need Help with this please...
 
whitbar42, your other thread was moved to Bernard Levine's forum. No reason to scatter your request all over the place and certainly not in someone else's thread.
 
I enjoy using my RC-3 the most. It's just an absolute joy in the hand, and easily tackles tasks you usually need much larger knives for. And using my Opinel warms my frugal New England heart. :D
 
i dig the click-clack of the axis lock on my 550 but for something knife-like i really love flippin my Baliyo
 
ive owned some expensive knives in my time but i really have the most fun with my kabar large heavy bowie and my first ever non-swiss-army knife: the 440c buck pbs. great no nonsense knife
 
Perfectly fit in my hand, cuts like a laser, and look like beauty queen.
Great design by Mr. Schempp
 
Last year, I would have said my FBM-LE. Now, I have to give it up for my AK. It makes you wish for a zombie attack(just a little). For small stuff, I love my Custom Shop BAD and my BM Skirmish.
 
My SNGs... I have a righty and a lefty, I just love opening em up spinning em, flipping em... I always wear shoes... eventually I drop one on my foot ;-)

Then I start all over again...
 
These two rank up there:

Choppers.jpg


Choppers2.jpg
 
I would have to say it would be this Crotts Model 2. Even after a year I find myself grinning from ear to ear every time I use it. :D
Crotts1.jpg

Crotts3.jpg


Second would be this BRK&T Tusk. I don't really know why. :confused:
IMG_0557.jpg
 
C.S. Graves said:
Sa-WEET! :thumbup:

Tell us more!
Click to expand...

It's a chef knife with a 10" or so blade from Shosui Takeda. Try at Arizona Custom Knives or googling "Takeda Hamono" for purchasing info. It's a wafer-thin blade that's fairly tall (55mm from spine to edge at the ricasso). The blade is made of a thin, hard slice of Hitachi/YSS Aogami Blue Super cutlery steel (very high carbon with a smidge of chromium, tungsten, and vanadium) sandwiched between two pieces of wrought iron and welded onto a stainless steel tang. The tang is epoxied into an octagonal handle made of rosewood with a black pakkawood ferrule with a smooth and generous gob of epoxy at the top of the ferrule.

The steel, along with being very thin, is also very hard. Coupled with the ridiculously high carbon content (1.4-1.5% - go on, laugh), it's also very brittle. Oddly, the knife will chop through squash and watermelons with no problem and fall through large potatoes at just the hint of a draw, but heaven help you if you use a polypropylene cutting board or standard Le Cordon Bleu cutting techniques for chef knives (the edge will flatten). Using the more pushcut-heavy method of Japanese-style chef knife use (slamming the poor blade straight down or nearly straight down through the food into the cutting board), it will keep an exceedingly sharp edge for a long time.

It took a lot of work to get the knife to behave that way (if you have a D8XX and a wide array of benchstones or sandpapers and a few hours), but it's now easy to maintain.
 
thombrogan said:
...heaven help you if you use a polypropylene cutting board or standard Le Cordon Bleu cutting techniques for chef knives (the edge will flatten). Using the more pushcut-heavy method of Japanese-style chef knife use (slamming the poor blade straight down or nearly straight down through the food into the cutting board), it will keep an exceedingly sharp edge for a long time.
Click to expand...

Hmm, seems almost counter-intuitive that the edge would hold up that much better usnig the latter method. Strange...
 
Tell me about it. Not too much, though, because I feel more productive using LCB shearcutting techniques, but am more productive pushcutting techniques and would therefore weep (or use my Shun Kaji on any surface with any technique and just enjoy a very thin-edged knife over the forbidden temptations of a freakishly very thin-edged knife.
 
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