What knives can't be batoned?

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Sep 19, 2001
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With all the talk of whether or not you should, I was wondering what knives clearly can't handle the task. Outside of double edges or sawbacks, possibly ceramic blades, I can't imagine which ones are unable to handle it. After seeing Opinels and kitchen knives driven through wood, and being told by others that they've done it with liner lock folders or traditional slipjoints I more or less expect any fxed blade to take it.

Let's say the task is to drive the knife through a knot free piece of wood with a diameter no more than 75% the length of the cutting edge using another piece of wood as the baton. What knives can't take it?
 
I personally wouldn't want to baton with anything other than a fixed blade. LOL a fillet knife certainly wouldn't be able to handle it, not for long anyway. Just my $.02 though.
 
true, I had for some reason forgotten about the japanese style cutlery, not quite the same as a saber ground slicer hardened in the low 50s
 
I wouldn't baton with a folder (unless my life depended on it) or any knife intended to be mainly a slicer. That is, probably never with a knife with a blade thinner than about 1/8th".

Andy
 
With all the talk of whether or not you should, I was wondering what knives clearly can't handle the task. Outside of double edges or sawbacks, possibly ceramic blades, I can't imagine which ones are unable to handle it. After seeing Opinels and kitchen knives driven through wood, and being told by others that they've done it with liner lock folders or traditional slipjoints I more or less expect any fxed blade to take it.

Let's say the task is to drive the knife through a knot free piece of wood with a diameter no more than 75% the length of the cutting edge using another piece of wood as the baton. What knives can't take it?
The people who say they've batoned with slipjoints including myself usually only baton kindling which I don't consider as abuse at all.

75% of the blade eh? I'd say a 18" machete wouldn't do too well splitting a 13.5" thick piece of wood lol.
 
Yeah - fillet knives and Shun kitchen knives. Although my Wustofs and Henckels - no problem.

I even batoned a $1 partial tang serrated steak knife once and it did fine. I was island hopping and keeping to carry-on, so when I went to a new Island, I'd just go to a little grocery store and pick up a cheap steak knife to throw in my pack. Works great (read adequate but not preffered) at EDC chores from peeling mangos to whittling sticks.
 
I don't think there are a lot of GOOD choices if that's what you are going to do.

Once you get away from the Busses, Cold Steels, Scrap Yards, Rats and a few others that CAN be used for it I really don't know.
 
A better question might be what type of knife is capable of, if not indeed designed to do, batoning?
Many knives will stand it up to a point. But apart from strength and durability there is also design (as in dimensions and shape). This has a major bearing on a knife's ability do baton well and easily.
 
I don't think there are a lot of GOOD choices if that's what you are going to do.

Once you get away from the Busses, Cold Steels, Scrap Yards, Rats and a few others that CAN be used for it I really don't know.

I totally disagree. I think you are falling into marketting hype here. Bussekins are perhaps one of the few knives that can handle chopping through concrete blocks, but that isn't the same as batoning.

You don't need a thick knife to baton wood. In fact, when you baton with a thinner knife, you don't have to hit the spine as hard because it is easier to sink a 0.1" knife into wood (with the grain) than it is a 0.25" piece of metal. The trade off of batoning a thinner knife is that you have to baton it further into the wood before it splits, while the thickness of a thick knife forces the split faster at the consequence of requiring you to pound harder to get it past the bevel.

Knives that are flawed (e.g. hair line fractures) will break which is why it is good to test a knife under harder use conditions before applying the same type of action in the field. In the other thread somebody accused folks who baton and post it as "bragging", but really it isn't that. When I get a new knife, it is one of the first things I do with it just to see what it will do.

Here is a 1/8" thick breeden that was batonned right through some knotty pine and right through a knot. I did this within about 40 min of receiving the knife, not to brag, but to make sure it could do it. After the little test on my porch, I no longer had any reservations about using it in the field. It is one of my preferred belt knives now!

DSC_0051-2.jpg


DSC_0053-2.jpg


Again, see my post above - I've batoned a 1/16" steak knife through wood. Not the preferred thing to do, but I was playing and it worked fine.

You don't need a heavy duty knife to baton wood unless it is crazy difficult wood. Now here is some knarly nasty stuff that is the kind of thing I wouldn't tackle with a lesser knife and the Scrapyard SOD came to play. I should stress that I tried chopping this with a hatchet first and that didn't work. Yes, I know how to use a hatchet, but the axe just sort of bounced off the stump and would not split. If I had a wedge and a maul it would have made short work out of this. However, what I did have was one of the toughest knives in the buisness and it made short work out of this stump also!

DSC_0010-1-1.jpg


You can see because of the knots and grain structure, that this piece just refused to split even when the full 1/4" blade was sunk into it. I just kept on beating it until I was right through the wood.

DSC_0011-23.jpg


DSC_0013-16.jpg


However, the above case is the exception. If you want to baton that kind of stuff than a bussekin knife is great. If you want to baton 95% of other types of wood, particularly those that are straight grained, most any knife will do.
 
I totally disagree. I think you are falling into marketting hype here. Bussekins are perhaps one of the few knives that can handle chopping through concrete blocks, but that isn't the same as batoning.

You don't need a thick knife to baton wood. In fact, when you baton with a thinner knife, you don't have to hit the spine as hard because it is easier to sink a 0.1" knife into wood (with the grain) than it is a 0.25" piece of metal. The trade off of batoning a thinner knife is that you have to baton it further into the wood before it splits, while the thickness of a thick knife forces the split faster at the consequence of requiring you to pound harder to get it past the bevel.

Knives that are flawed (e.g. hair line fractures) will break which is why it is good to test a knife under harder use conditions before applying the same type of action in the field. In the other thread somebody accused folks who baton and post it as "bragging", but really it isn't that. When I get a new knife, it is one of the first things I do with it just to see what it will do.

Here is a 1/8" thick breeden that was batonned right through some knotty pine and right through a knot. I did this within about 40 min of receiving the knife, not to brag, but to make sure it could do it. After the little test on my porch, I no longer had any reservations about using it in the field. It is one of my preferred belt knives now!

DSC_0051-2.jpg


DSC_0053-2.jpg


Again, see my post above - I've batoned a 1/16" steak knife through wood. Not the preferred thing to do, but I was playing and it worked fine.

You don't need a heavy duty knife to baton wood unless it is crazy difficult wood. Now here is some knarly nasty stuff that is the kind of thing I wouldn't tackle with a lesser knife and the Scrapyard SOD came to play. I should stress that I tried chopping this with a hatchet first and that didn't work. Yes, I know how to use a hatchet, but the axe just sort of bounced off the stump and would not split. If I had a wedge and a maul it would have made short work out of this. However, what I did have was one of the toughest knives in the buisness and it made short work out of this stump also!

DSC_0010-1-1.jpg


You can see because of the knots and grain structure, that this piece just refused to split even when the full 1/4" blade was sunk into it. I just kept on beating it until I was right through the wood.

DSC_0011-23.jpg


DSC_0013-16.jpg


However, the above case is the exception. If you want to baton that kind of stuff than a bussekin knife is great. If you want to baton 95% of other types of wood, particularly those that are straight grained, most any knife will do.

I agree to a point, for me I would be battening a FIELD knife so it would have to be tough enough for all tasks at hand or ones that could come up. Your Scrap Yard SOD is an Excellent hard use field knife, great choice by the way. :)

I wasn't going by hype at all, I am going by past experiences. :D

Yes I know what you ment though. :)
 
i batoned some logs last night with my sog flash 2 folder lol. i wouldnt have done it if i didnt consider it a total pos and i couldnt have cared less if it broke which im sure it would have if i kept it up but its still working fine
 
Wow! That's a heartbreaker. :(

It is a heartbreaker. Fortunately, Ethan Becker replaced the blade, as he generally does. The person who posted this (syltetoy) seems to be going around the board bad mouthing all Becker's and Ka-Bars. The knife in the photo was not his/hers.
 
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