What knives can't be batoned?

That is like saying you learned the hard way that water is wet, or kissing an angry badger on the mouth is not fun. :D
 
Hey, if it's your knife and you want to do it, go for it. Any knife could probably do it, any knife can be broken. I have certainly beat the hell out of quite a few Kabars and have never had one break but anything made by man can be destroyed by man.
 
I've never battoned before and probably won't for anytime in the near future. But I'm curious; how would it be a bad thing is you battoned a folder and just made impacts on the spine of the blade (ie not hitting the handle or any part at the pivot or lower)? This is assuming the the blade is thick enough and all the other stuff that you consider (ideal hardness, good steel, good grind, etc).

So again, IF the impacts remain only on the spine of the blade and all the other stuff is equal, how is that any different from battoning a fixed blade? You are only impacting the fixed part of a blade.
 
Kaizen1 said:
I've never battoned before and probably won't for anytime in the near future. But I'm curious; how would it be a bad thing is you battoned a folder and just made impacts on the spine of the blade (ie not hitting the handle or any part at the pivot or lower)? This is assuming the the blade is thick enough and all the other stuff that you consider (ideal hardness, good steel, good grind, etc).

So again, IF the impacts remain only on the spine of the blade and all the other stuff is equal, how is that any different from battoning a fixed blade? You are only impacting the fixed part of a blade.
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There is in practice no way to avoid exerting immense stress on the joint, unless you manage to hit the sweet spot every single time.
 
I purchased this one back in the late 1970s or early 80s, because I got tired of always borrowing my father's K-bar (an early 6" commercial early WW2 variant with the same blade shape later seen on the their MK2) every time I wanted to split a deer. It was/is a Case Pawnee (no longer made, although Case knife collectors still sell and trade them) and it was one of the prettiest hunting knives I have ever had. [I was still too young to realize pretty and functional rarely go together.] Back then I was still pretty close to minimum wage, so this was a major purchase for that pay cycle.

This what happened while battoning through a deer's (a task the K-bar did dozens of times without a problem, which had led me in my inexperience to assume any hunting knife could be used for such a task) pelvis. This was about half way through when the failure happened.

DSC00227.jpg


I still have it and keep it as a reminder.
 
The ones where the owner will jump on the pointed head of any who start beating piss and pick handles out of his knives.

Should any get a mad urge to spend the day cutting up wood then I can lend them an axe.
 
Spyderco Civilian might be a challenge, being fully SE with that kind of tip.

Hawkbills in general would be hard.
 
no-one said:
The ones where the owner will jump on the pointed head of any who start beating piss and pick handles out of his knives.

Should any get a mad urge to spend the day cutting up wood then I can lend them an axe.
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so you don't know if they can actually handle the task?
 
I could not care less if they would not stand up to being belted to pieces and abused.
My work knives process kangaroo carcases, my hunting knives process game, my gardening knives dig weeds and my pocketknives do all of the immediate mundane tasks that are required of them.....what they all (with the exception of the gardening knives) have in common is that they are sharp, and I like them to stay that way.

And it would pay to not baton an axe with an eye as the eye can be split, leave that for the axe that does not have an eye....Fiskars do a solid head axe that is good for using alloy and plastic wedges, as do a couple of other companies.


Ps, and I really, really, REALLY detest big heavy thick blades.....and that also goes for the full tang knives that do not have a tapered tang.
 
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