What knives to take for bushcraft course

TedV

TedV

Joined
Jul 18, 2000
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OK - This is driving me mad... :eek: In 2 weeks, my friend and me are gonna go for a small bushcraft course (weekend). We both have been camping since we were kids and know/have done most of the bushcraft stuff but just thought it would be a nice weekend away from work stress etc. Thing is that I can't decide on which knives to bring? I've attached some combo pics with my ideas about them. Most of the work will be some fire preparing, food prep, making some pegs and sticks for the tarp, and maybe some shelter building.

Comments please... :)

First, this is I think the most ideal combo. Chris Reeve Neil Roberts and small micarta Sebenza. The big one can most tasks including chopping and the small Sebbie has the very fine pointy tip (splinters etc) and can do the fine cutting. But, my name will be 'Ted John J Rambo' in 10 seconds I guess. Also a tad $$$ compared to the $10 Frosts that the instructor suggests on his site... ;)
And the Neil Roberts is really big. Maybe too big?
Also, the clip on the small Sebbie only works good on thick pants. Not on thin hiking pants. I would hate too lose it ... :eek:

bushreeve.jpg


Then, a smaller & rougher combo. A Fallkniven F1 & Strider PT (blade is sanded). Both well used. Good thing of the F1 is that the spine can throw lots of sparks from a firesteel. Both Reeve's can't do that (only the thumb grooves on the Sebbie throw a spark, but not as good as the F1). Then again, my firesteel has a small steel scraper attached to it. The PT has a good solid clip also for thin pants. But, neither of these knives have a very fine point (for splinters etc.)

bushstrider.jpg


A different combo, larger folder (large Sebenza) and smaller fixed blade (Ontario RAT-3). I haven't used the RAT 3 yet, but it got a good review on outdoors-magazine.com.

bushrat.jpg


Maybe another combination? Neil Roberts + RAT3?

Or, should I just sell all this, get a life and just do it with my 25 year old SAK and #7 Opinel? ;) :p

bushsak.jpg
 
i'd probably take the F1 and the strider or the sak. what course are you taking??

nice knives and pics by the way
 
First combo would be fine. I recently took similar course and had large sebbie w. dozier's KS-3. Didn't need the sebbie, but than I don't go anywhere without it.
 
Oh, and don't worry, you won't be the "Rambo" with your setup.There will be others, some will amaze you beyond belief.
 
I would say take a knife similer to what the instructor suggests. If he says bring a big blade you can use as a chopper, then chances are you will need a big blade. If he says bring a smaller blade, then bring a smaller blade. If he says just bring a SAK, then just bring a SAK. Afterwards you will see what you prefer based on what you could and couldn't accomplish with the tools you brought. (That also teaches you how good the instructor is) ;)
 
Depends on your the instructors blade phylosophy.

In my courses larger is better but large and very tough blades are best. I bring multiple blades for the students to try out and see each of their advantages and disadvantages. Learning through experience is the best.

Many students bring their blades of choice and leave with them in pieces or damaged trying to duplicate what I am teaching. Or learn the limitations of a small length blade and leave with a blade shopping wish list for
Christmas.

A majority of core intructors prefer large blades if given the choice. For caught unexpectedly scenarios you make due with your EDC or nothing. I teach all scenarios.

You are correct though it is a great excuse to go into the bush and get primal and dirty. I learn something on every course I teach and so will you.

Have fun and push yourself.

BTW, Take the F1 and Rat 3 and when you get the chance buy a 7 inch quality chopper/prybar.

Skam
 
shpshooter said:
I would say take a knife similer to what the instructor suggests. If he says bring a big blade you can use as a chopper, then chances are you will need a big blade. If he says bring a smaller blade, then bring a smaller blade. If he says just bring a SAK, then just bring a SAK. Afterwards you will see what you prefer based on what you could and couldn't accomplish with the tools you brought. (That also teaches you how good the instructor is) ;)
Click to expand...


The instructor should teach all blade useage, from big choppers down to nothing and let the students gleam what works best for them buy experiencing all blade sizes. TO pidgeon hole a class to one size blade is not teaching but preaching and pursuing an agenda.

Skam
 
Contact the instructor and find out what type of knives they favor. If they don't have any particular preferences, take whatever you are most comfortable using and take along a good dose of common sense.
 
The instructor favors the Frosts Training knife.

http://www.extrasurvival.nl/m_snijden.html

He states that 99% of the other knives he has seen during the course are either too big, too small, too heavy, not safe (folders) or too hard to sharpen or just not handy.

About the Neil Roberts, I got it because I've always wanted a Chris Reeve fixed blade and really liked it and thought it would make a great compromise between a 3-4" fixed blade and a 7" chopper. And with the 3/4 choil making it suitable for fine close-up work also. The ultimate allround blade...?

But, I can already here the instructor saying it's too big, too heavy and too hard to sharpen since it doesn't have a scandi grind and it's stainless. Or maybe he'll know the convex edge on the relatively soft S30V can be sharpened real easily on a ceramic rod... :rolleyes:

oh...the choices one has too make... :o

Thanks for all the comments so far, really helpful. Keep 'm coming!
 
F1 and the SAK. I'd also take the large Sebbie for back-up, but keep it out of sight.
 
I would take what the instructors recommend.


skammer,
how can I get information on some of your survival classes, do you have a web page?
 
skammer said:
The instructor should teach all blade useage, from big choppers down to nothing and let the students gleam what works best for them buy experiencing all blade sizes. TO pidgeon hole a class to one size blade is not teaching but preaching and pursuing an agenda.

Skam
Click to expand...
Um.. he's talking about a bushcraft course not a survival course.
 
i have to agree with skammer, take a knife similar to what the instructor reccomends.

if the instructor is reccomending a frost, then take what you like but take something similar to a SWAK to try out. you may find that these knives are not only inexpensive but also pretty darned usefull for the kind of class that you are taking. no so the reason for the class is to get you to be able to try out your gear so take a couple of knives, see which one fits. after all you are there to shake out your gear as well as learn from the instructor. it does not sound like this is a "big chopper" kind of class, more like a lets get by with a small knife something you might be carrying on a hike, like a good folder or light weight swedish army knife. most folks i know dont carry a 9 inch blade on a day hike. also if you want to try some of the things with an axe take one with you. i think one of othose GB mini axes might be pretty handy, and would fit in a pocket or daypack easily. also a swiss army knife with a saw might come in handy.

alex
 
Brian6244 said:
Um.. he's talking about a bushcraft course not a survival course.
Click to expand...

Someone educate me on the difference between terms bushcraft, camping and survival. Bushcraft is a term I do not use. :confused:

Skam
 
skammer said:
Someone educate me on the difference between terms bushcraft, camping and survival. Bushcraft is a term I do not use. :confused:

Skam
Click to expand...

I am not a devotee of the Bushcraft faith (see www.bushcraftuk.com), but it seems to place more emphasiis on skills for long-term primitive living vs. keeping in one piece until you find civilization or it finds you. Hence, they want knives that are good for carving spoons and bowls and making traps -- as well as shelter-building and fire-making.
 
Survivalboy said:
I would take what the instructors recommend.


skammer,
how can I get information on some of your survival classes, do you have a web page?
Click to expand...


I like anonymity so will not reveal too much about myself for both security and business purposes.

However, I do have 2 books comming out in the next while :rolleyes: and a website will follow soon after.

And no I will not advertise or link or push my business on this public forum.

BTW, an instructor who refuses students to try out equipment or who pushes/restricts single products on his students (especially if its officially endorsed by them :rolleyes: ) is not only narrow minded but hampering the learning process.

Take whatever blade you want to and test it and learn from it. If he doesn't allow it find another instructor. Hes there to foster experience and learning not to stifle the hands on process. There is no official instructor designation that means anything so its buyer beware.

Skam
 
Thanks,

Just to be clear then bushcraft if it means primitive living :confused: is not my deal. I do not teach how to make moccasins etc... I do teach natural fire making and some game getting, cordage making techniques but thats about it.

My goal is to get you rescued and to live through a likely scenario. Modern survival for lack of a better term.

Skam
 
ras said:
Bushcraft is a survival course taught in Europe ;)
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No, not really -- and bushcraft is taught in the U.S. E.g. Tom Brown.

Check the books suggested at bushcraft sites. They typically include information on topics like harvesting food, tanning leather, making bows, capping flint, weaving baskets, etc. -- very different from 98.6.

I do not mean in any way to diminish the skills of a bushcrafter. In fact, I would think that a skilled bushcrafter would have no problem with "survival" as that term is usually meant in the U.S. and Canada.
 
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