What light on my AR?

Discussion in 'Gadgets & Gear' started by KaBar, Oct 25, 2010.

  1. KaBar

    KaBar

    604
    Dec 30, 2004
    Built another M4, LMT flat top on a rock river, basic stuff....

    My question is I have a stinger currently mounted on it, I used the old 30mm rings off the red dot my m2hb busted the other week. The stinger has 90 lumens (second one down) while the ultra has 295 lumens (top light) The body is the same diameter so I can swap it out pretty easy. Should I keep the stinger or switch to the larger but 3x more powerfull ultra stinger?

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  2. Guyon

    Guyon Biscuit Whisperer Staff Member Super Mod

    Mar 15, 2000
    Depends on the throw maybe? I put a Surefire 6P with a Malkoff M60 drop-in on mine. The M60 has a very tight, long throw.
     
  3. Horned Toad

    Horned Toad

    Aug 21, 2005
    LED 120 lumens or brighter and it needs to be mounted where you can get to it both strong side and support side shooting. I have some buds using the novatacs with good results and thats a small lightweight light.
     
  4. KenM K

    KenM K

    271
    Feb 16, 2008
    I would try to go with a smaller light with a tailcap on off button. That setup just seems like it would make the gun front heavy.
     
  5. shaving sharp

    shaving sharp Gold Member Gold Member

    Dec 19, 2007
    Surefire 6p, very liteweight and throws plenty of light.
     

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  6. KaBar

    KaBar

    604
    Dec 30, 2004
    Well, the reason I ask is because I already have the two lights in question and I dont really want to buy a expensive light just for a truck gun.
     
  7. shaving sharp

    shaving sharp Gold Member Gold Member

    Dec 19, 2007
    The 6P is also polymer so for a "truck gun" it will take some abuse.It does also have a tail switch that is adjustible for sensitivity or can be turned to stay on.
     
  8. Quirt

    Quirt

    Oct 10, 2005
    Conventional Wisdom suggests the brighter the better for a light used for personal defense or integrated as a weapon mounted system. Generally if one is using the bright light in a forested area against four legged predators then perhaps there is some truth to this wisdom. But if you're using the light for self defense against two legged predators in an urban environment or enclosed environment (parking lot, inside/around a truck/vehicle, building, alley etc) then "brighter is not always better." In fact it actually works against you.

    Let's get real here...for most (including law enforcement)...the typical defensive engagement is anywhere from contact distance to 10 yards max. Rarely is it much beyond 10 yards. Extremely rarity is shooting across the street...and if you're doing that then you'll have a lot of explaining to do to a jury (especially in civil court) why you just didn't drive away, walk away, or ensconce oneself in a nearby building hunkering down behind protective cover. Also unless you're in a forested area most of America has some ambient light. So we're not generally in complete and total darkness. We just need enough light to see the potential or actual threats hands and to determine if we have AOJ.

    Everything is a trade-off...the brighter you go with a light then it does two things negatively working against you...first it negatively affects your eyes ability to adjust and work in a darker to partially lighted environment. Again, there is probably already some ambient light you eyes can work with. The eyes are re-adjusted to much more light and when the light goes off then you'll experience some level of night blindness. Remember the light shouldn't be on more than a couple seconds, then you turn it off, move and turn back on as needed.

    Secondly. brighter lights tend to produce a larger and brighter corona and that spills over onto your cover making you easier to be seen by the threats or potential threats and worse yet the reflection from the corona actual reduces your ability to see much more than a few feet in front of you. I've seen people using these mega lumen lights blind themselves when working around white/tan walls or metalic siding or vehicles. The corona reflects off of the wall or vehicle blinding them so badly it takes them out of the drill/fight.

    So in some cases...brighter isn't always better. I always suggest people test their gear in a Low Light type defensive firearms course first with a seasoned instructor and where you can experiment with various light systems. You'll be amazed at what you'll discover and it will erode many common misconceptions about defending oneself at night and using lights.

    Perhaps a more important question to ask is do I want LED or Incan for a light? Generally what we've found with our testing is LED is very good but not as effective in penetrating fog, mist, smoke, or a haze.

    But what the heck do I know?
     
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2010
  9. bitter1

    bitter1

    Mar 3, 2008
    I am thinking about the new Surefire G2X tactical for my Arsenal AK.
     
  10. phaserrifle

    phaserrifle

    745
    Apr 8, 2008
    errm, the 6P and it's variants (6P-LED, 6P Defender ect) are all aluminium bodied lights, and allways have been.
    I think you are thinking of the G2 and it's relatives, which are essentially the 6P in polymer instead of metal.
     
  11. SIFU1A

    SIFU1A

    May 12, 2001
    imho the lite ya use on your AR should be in tune with what ya intend to use the rifle for, mine is for 100 yards in and i use a surefire scoutlite and it works fine, if i wanted more range i would use a larger lite with more lumens, it just depends on what ya intend to use the thing for.
     

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