What makes a good throwing knife?

SDS

SDS

Joined
Oct 22, 2007
Messages
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I know it's a broad question but I'm curious. I was asked to participate, as a seller, in the Southwestern National Tomahawk and Knife Championship. For a variety of reasons I wasn't able to attend but it piqued my interest.

So what makes a good thrower? I have a very limited knowledge of throwing knives. Basically it's my understanding that you want a lower RC hardness but that's about all I know.

Do you want a heavy knife, a light knife, long, short, thick or thin, handle or not???

I'm interested in making something with a primitive or rustic look. Maybe a forged thrower with a wrapped handle.

I'm wide open to thoughts and suggestions.

Thanks,
SDS
 
I think it greatly depends on what type of technique you want to use. If you want to use no-spin or quarter-spin, then a longer blade would work better.

If you want to use a more conventional technique, which employs spin, then you could probably go for a lighter knife or one that's blade-heavy.

I'm not an expert but I have used both a long knife (12in muela) and a smaller gil hibben hall of fame knife that's 8in in length. The muela was definitely easier to throw using no-spin.
 
Hello Shawn, I like the Rendezvous Style Thrower's, Leather Handle Slab's 3/16" Thick, 14 1/2" OAL 9" Blade of 1050 Steel, Patterned after the Clip Point Bowie, If you get one Made you know we need some picture's, Just to give you an Idea of the Style "I Like" Dana from Fort Turner make's a Very Nice Forged Rendezvous Style Throwing Knife that Is used In Mountain Man Competition, http://www.fortturner.com/store/knives.htm
 
The style in the link looks simple enough. I know the leather slab handles work well but I think I may want to create something that looks more like a day to day user knife but still works well for throwing. I'm not sure that's a very doable thing but I still may have to give it a go.

I have some 1070 steel, may have to look for some 1050 though.

I'll post up pictures when I get started on this.

SDS
 
For long range and a lighter knife it is nice to have a blade balanced around the middle and symmetrical around its long access. So a symmetrical blade is nice. If you throw from the handle you want the knife to be blade-heavy. It can either be long or medium length and wide. You want a handle free from lumps and bumps so that it can slide straight through your grasp.

If you throw from the blade you want the knife to be somewhat handle-heavy, but that is very normal. You may actually want a handle that is a little lighter than usual. You need a blade that is dull on one side (except maybe for a short area right near the point). I have used something as simple as a foot long blade I sawed off a Mauser bayonet to throw from the blade end. At one time I could stick it in at any distance between 6 feet and 50 feet. Neutral balance makes the blade rotate a little faster and smoother. That makes it easier to adjust your turn-over distance.

You want something tough. I would say 1050 to 1085 would all work if hardened down around 50 or so.
 
Thanks for the input. I may give that 1070 a go then. If I get a chance I'll draw something up and see what you guys think of it.

Thanks again,
SDS
 
SDS said:
Thanks for the input. I may give that 1070 a go then. If I get a chance I'll draw something up and see what you guys think of it.

Thanks again,
SDS
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Hey Shawn, I know what ever design you go with It's gonna be a Good One ! I cant wait to see what you come up with, Have A Big Ol Goodun !

Kenny
 
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