What method do you use to sharpen a knife?

What method do you most commonly use to sharpen your knives with?

  • Freehand

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Jig/Sharpmaker/Guided Apparattus

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Bench Grinder/Belt Sander/Paper Wheels

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Other (please specify in post)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    0
OTHER: In any given week I use all the above. On some days I use all of the above methods plus several others. Just in my office filing cabinet I have two V-rod systems, 5 bench stones, two diamond steels, and some 1200 grit Wet or Dry paper. At home I have a belt sander with 8 different grits, two v-rod systems, diamond bench hones, water stones, aluminum oxide oil stones, silicon carbide oil stones, arkansas stones, various strops, aluminum oxide polishing compounds, chromium oxide polishing compounds, 10 different grits of diamond polishing compoung...etc.
 
Lately I've been setting the edge bevel(freehand) with a 1" Delta belt sander followed by a micro bevel with a sharpmaker. I usually strop to bring the edge back. Occasionally I need to use the Sharpmaker ultra fine ceramic rods after hard use.
 
First sharpening gets the belt sander, to widen the bevel, I hate narrow, micro bevels; too hard to free hand stone them, and the wider edge is thinner too. Belts 240 to 320 and a 400 if I have one, then free hand on a med. india stone, then to medium, hard and translucent Arkansas stones, then power stropped on the buffer- sewn cotton wheel, and green chrome.

after that its power stropped to maintain the edge about once a week, and on the translucent Ark. stone if it need a real touch up. sometimes I carry a pocket stone, not an Ark, but a natural stone that is about the same cut/grit.as the trans Ark. stone.(viking stone from ragweed forge)

G.
 
started on a 2X3" stone, then moved up to an "E-Z-LAP" diamond rod, and now to a Smith corse/fine, all free hand. the EZLAP is still a little tough to use, even after 10 years, its that damn rubber bushing that holds the rod in the nut. both the EZLAP and the Smith are colapsable. i sharpened 2 knives last night, they aren't "hair poping sharp" but i have a couple of ugly bald spots on my left arm, so they are sharp!
 
I use a whet rock on my pocket knives, I pull the blade @ about 10 degrees to me 4 or 5 times turn it over and at the same degree cut the rock away from me same number of times. When that's finished, I strop it on a piece of leather I glued to a heavy paint stick. They get pretty sharp that way always worked for me. That's away Grandpa done it but he had a razor strop that he used instead of the home made leather strop I have...
 
I establish bevels on a new knife with a 400 grit belt on the grinder and then go to a super fine EZ-LAP diamond hone. I follow that up with a very fine Arkasas and usually go to a ceramic. I finish up with a loaded canvas strop and finalize the deal on the leather side.
 
Hi,

It depends on the knife and what I want to do to it. If I want to re-profile the edge, I like to use a Lansky. A guided system is easier and more consistent.

For general sharpening I like my arkansas stones and free hand. I just use a medium stone because I don't really need to whittle hair.:) Sometimes I use the extra fine and ceramic hone from the Lansky free hand also.

My Vic Soldier and #8 Opinel get the mouse pad treatment. My 'Hawk and a really cheap Pakistani "Bowie knife" get clamped in a vise and draw filed. Sadly and most ashamedly, my cheap Faberware forged kitchen knives get sharpened on a Magic Chef grinder.:o

dalee
 
I use a medium/fine stone and honing oil. It's taken me a looooooooooong time to get to where I can get them to shave the back of my hand. That's not even consistent. But I'm determined to get good on the stone. Or maybe I'm just bullheaded! I seem to have better success with carbon blades over SS. I use an old leather belt for stropping. :thumbup: Dale H.
 
I use the DMT Aligner Jig for rebeveling (new Queens)

then maintain free hand with a DMT extra Fine
 
I have used freehand since I was a kid--and still do on some knives. I also use the Spyderco system for some applications.:)
 
i use a tri-hone that i got for xmas an old stone that was my grandads (have no idea what it is, really) and strop on an old belt. Results may vary but it gets my knives sharp enough for me (not always with time i believe i will get more consistant)
definitely not state of the art but i believe i do okay
ivan
 
I use a diamond pocket hone if things are real bad, then a butchers steel to put a toothy edge on the blade. I keep the edge with the steel for the most part.
Sometimes I use a kitchen sharpener which is like two crossed mini steels. that works pretty good for me.

Many people comment on how sharp my knives are so I'm doing something right.
 
Burr King 960 variable speed grinder with 220, 320, 600 grit belts depending on the edge that is on the knife to start with. New knives are ground initially on 220 then cleaned up with the 320 & 600 grit. Then over to the Baldor Buffer with a medium buff (1800 rpm) buff the edge on each side once or twice, whole operation takes less than a minute on knives that have an initial edge. Hairs just jump off your arm after that. The 320 belt has been in use for over 10 years.
 
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I freehand sharpen my knives using Spyderco benchstones.

I REALLY like those benchstones!
 
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