What oil for maintanance

:)
Regardless of what the can says, it smells toxic which is enough for me to not want to use it on food
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Yah . . . I hear yah. You are probably correct.
Ha, ha,
though let me tell you a funny on me . . .
I used to think clear silicon calk/glue was all super poisonous; ( I mean just S M E L L that stuff ) then I learned the solvent (this was way back in the day not sure it is so now) . . . are you ready ? ? ? . . . white vinegar . . . that was that awful acidic "TOXIN" that I was smelling.

Ha, ha, ha.
I'dN'O

PS: I have taken a shot of WD-40 in the eye a couple of times in the past. When I stopped running around in cirlces screaming for the medics and hazmat . . .
. . . there was no harm done . . . I just shut up and kept working.
YMMV.
 
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Safety data sheet
http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf
The main hazard seems to be taking significant amounts into ones lungs. The same can be said for regular old mineral oil (probably for cooking oil for that mater if vaporized in an aerosol).

excerpts :
First Aid Measures
Ingestion (Swallowed): Aspiration Hazard. DO NOT induce vomiting. Call physician, poison control center or the WD-40 Safety Hotline at 1-888-324-7596 immediately.
Eye Contact: Flush thoroughly with water. Remove contact lenses if present after the first 5 minutes and continue flushing for several more minutes. Get medical attention if irritation persists.
Skin Contact: Wash with soap and water. If irritation develops and persists, get medical attention.

U.S. Federal Regulations:
CERCLA 103 Reportable Quantity: This product is not subject to CERCLA reporting requirements, however, oil spills are reportable to the National Response Center under the Clean Water Act and many states have more stringent release reporting requirements. Report spills required under federal, state and local regulations.
SARA TITLE III:
Hazard Category For Section 311/312: Acute Health, Fire Hazard, Sudden Release of Pressure
Section 313 Toxic Chemicals: This product contains the following chemicals subject to SARA Title III Section 313 Reporting requirements: None
Section 302 Extremely Hazardous Substances (TPQ): None
EPA Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA) Status: All of the components of this product are listed on the TSCA inventory.
California Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act (Proposition 65): This product does not contain chemicals regulated under California Proposition 65.

OK around food service ?
Yah looks like they took that one off. I remember seeing it though.

They now have a specific “Blue” product for that use. Any bets that it costs more but is not a big diff ?
 
By the by
I made a study of the evaporative / gumming characteristics of WD-40
it doesn’t do either to any significant degree.

This all started when some one said that WD-40 EVAPORATES off a sharpening stone and is OK to use as an oil stone oil. I knew that mineral oil would not evaporate and suspected the WD would not as well. I didn't like the sound of using WD on an oil stone because I expected it would gum up the stone though. The person who said it would evaporate off the stone was all higher educationed out and so thought they were scientifically correct. See hydrocarbons blah blah blah.

Some times seat of the pants in the shop experience can contribute to science. This is one”O those times.

To see if ANY of the oils would EVAPORATE . . .
(none of them actually left the glass like water would EVAPORATE.)

I put puddles and thinnish smears of several oils on a sheet of glass. Most of the oils were woodworking finishes and un catalyzed drying oils. Just to have something to watch while the WD did nothing. They all solidified to a plastic state over weeks and months. EXCEPT as I suspected the WD. [PS: and the Camellia didn't solidify ] It is about a year later and the WD-40 is still just like when I put it on the glass except for all the dust in it. Check it out. Do the experiment for your self on glass. Keep it dust free until you are satisfied. I just never got around to doing anything with my sheet of glass.
Notice the progression over time of the “drying oils” (woodworking finishes and fine art oil painting oils) gelling and eventually turning to plastic literally . . . while the WD-40 remains fluid and for practical purposes unchanged.
Notice that, once again, using my finger I was able to smear through the still wet (non-evaporated) puddle and film as well. In spite of the abundant dust collected on the surface.
I still would not put it on an oil stone. For that matter I have no use for oil on a stone. Water on water stones and kerosene on an oil stone, thank you very much, on the very rare occasion when I have a blade that rusts so fast I want to use something other than water.

By the way I have now secured some espresso and am now feeling MUCH better.







PS: the "Cam" on the glass is Camellia oil to see if it gummed up. I strongly suspect this is just mineral oil with a fancy label because in the old days Camellia gummed up on me and this didn't.
 
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Another vote for Ballistol.

Works. Has many uses including barrel cleaning and leather conditioning. Food safe. Smells good.
 
Wowbagger said:
:)

PS: I have taken a shot of WD-40 in the eye a couple of times in the past. When I stopped running around in cirlces screaming for the medics and hazmat . . .
. . . there was no harm done . . . I just shut up and kept working.
YMMV.
Click to expand...

After all that research and trials of blinding rage-I dub you the expert [emoji106][emoji2]

I think we can all agree that WD is a wonderful and mysterious substance that has many great uses. Although WD could make a fantastic glaze on planked Salmon or a tantalizing addition to a salad dressing, we should probably shy away from ingesting...for now [emoji2]
 
Wd 40 is not fish oil, it's mineral oil. No more than you would have on a knife blade won't hurt you.
 
I use a Liquid wax for pivots or nothing at all since mine are all of my blades are stainless.
Wax doesn't gather lint, dirt, gum up or really have any Oder to it. .
 
I use Hoppes Weathergaurd. It is a great oil that doesn't collect pocket lint and dirt like Rem Oil does. It is still petrollium distillate based, but doesn't have the silicon in it that leaves a rainbow streak like Rem Oil. Ballistol is another good oil. For my pivots I use ten point crossbow lube. Ten points crossbow rail lube makes a great lube for contact between frame and slide for pistols with heavy actions like the 1911 .45 and Magnum Research Desert Eagle. The tiniest pin head sized drop will do it. Other products don't quite cut it.
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I put WD40 on the pivot of a ZT and then put the knife away for maybe 8 months. When I got the knife back out the action was VERY stiff. Maybe it was the WD40 . . . maybe not. But I'm not going to use WD40 anymore on my pivots!
 
I just cleaned out my delica with wd40, there was alot of stuff coming with the wd40.. Opens like a charm now
 
So to answer your question: what oil do we use for knives? I save the empty large jugs of 5/30 synthetic motor oil, and take a few minutes to drip the left overs in the bottom of the jug into a small plastic bottle with a blunt precision tip, before I recycle the jug. But, the motivation for responding to your question is because after Christmas cleanup I asked one of my sons to wash three folders (AUS8, D2, and m390), and the funny thing is that after washing with Ajax liquid dish soap and being left to dry in the rack tip down overnight (my 10 gallon can of air is empty), they all flip better then ever, smooth as butter, as good as new, better than from the factory. I hesitate to put anything in the pivots and will save the 5/30 for coating the D2. I like Rhinoknives1 suggestion of using liquid wax on the pivots because I already have some.
 
3-in-1 oil works well on pivots, and provides good corrosion resistance. I like mineral oil as well for food safety, and because it is good for bone scales.
 
3-In-One oil on outdoor knives that do not touch food.

Mineral oil on everything else.
 
OK . . . no fish oil
sounded good though. I read that , I think, in the history of the guy who formulated WD-40 but they may have been full of beans. Or maybe it was the original formula and the company modded it.

In any case the reason I am bothering you all this way, yet again, is I ran across this photo that I didn't use back in the day when I was originally banging on about how oil, the kind of oil WE use on stones and machines, (unlike the magic, mysterious oil my original corespondent was talking about from his formal training) . . . where was I
. . .
. . .
oh yah . . . here are the bottles of the various oils I put on the glass; I added the WD-40 to the glass a day or so later. I got it from a gallon which tends to be a bit richer than the spray can stuff.

As far as wax goes I suppose that can work well but wax without solvent in it tends to be a solid approaching the density of plastic. Solvent tends to, ha, ha, here I go now, evaporate over time so it is a little like putting glue or liquid plastic into your pocket knife joints. If used very sparingly so there isn't a glob all is well but would not be my first choice for a knife that is going to sit and not be opened regularly.

A side note : bee's wax on drawer runners in furniture tends to make the drawers stick closed; candle wax does not do this. I use bee's wax on spoked wheels on the threads of the spokes to act as a mild Loc tite so you see what I mean.

Yah I'm going to hold off on the WD as a desert topping.
I do have a strange compulsion from time to time to blast my self in the eye with a shot from the can.
Do you suppose this stuff is habit forming ?

 
For oiling pivots, I've been using #10 nano-oil. It seems to work well, but I have noticed that there's been recent controversy about the stuff, with some saying it amounts to "snake oil."

www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1322458-Not-so-Nano-Nano-oil
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1325019-Nano-oil-fool-me-once

People have reported seeing flakes of material in their nano-oil, etc. I've never noticed particles floating around in my nano-oil, but see the picture below, which I just took. These are both tubes of #10 nano-oil, which I bought around the same time, but they don't look like the same stuff, at all. I haven't used the newer tube, at all. Is this normal? Does everyone's nano-oil turn cloudy like this after use?

No idea what's going on, but I've still got these two tubes, and it seems to work well and hasn't been hurting my knives, so I'll keep using it for now. Next time, I might just go back to Hoppes or a good sewing machine oil. I would never use WD-40 because it gunks up. I would never use food oil (olive oil, etc.) because it goes rancid. And I would never use the mineral oil you buy at pharmacies and grocery stores due to the weight.

TAdoHKu.jpg
 
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I found tuf glide is very effective in making ball bearing pivot smoother but not so with washers. not sure about wd40 except that it is very stink in smell.
 
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