What oil should one use to protect carbon steel?

[bmcoomes]

if your looking for preservation for you high carbon blades I've fond that museum wax or Renaissance Wax is best. It's clean last vary long and is easy to apply.

Here is a link to were I get my wax.
http://www.swordsofhonor.com/renaissancewax.html

Thanks,
Brent

 

[Buffalohump]

Living in a high humidity environment and being a knife freak I'm a bit of an oil and rust preventative nut myself.

For cleaning a blade after use, I favour WD-40. I also use Birchwood-Casey Sheath (gun product) and Break-Free.

If you're using the knife for food prep, I got some stuff called Neo-Ballistol from a gun shop a while back. It's a German product, which is pretty fascinating, as it was apparently used in WWII by the Wehrmacht to clean their equipment and (get this) as a preservative for rubber, leather, and even to keep their animal's fur coats in good shape (!). The stuff is also sold in gel tablet form, and apparently will keep your guts in good working order. I'd like to know if anyone else has used this product. So far it seems to work pretty well.

For long term storage, I use Marine Tuf-Cloth. It does leave quite a bit of residue though.

I've just ordered my first forged custom in O-1 tool steel, so I'm going to be keeping a close eye on that one. Most of my knives are stainless or coated. For my Cold Steel mini-kukri, which is carbon steel, I use an automotive ball-bearing grease along the edge.

Never thought of vaseline.... learn something new every day! :thumbup:

 

[angle iron]

I may be mistaken but it is my understanding that camelia oil and tea tree oil are the same thing. If so it definitely has a scent to it. a couple of coats of Tuf Glide allowed to dry in between coats has kept O-1 steel rust free for a day of saltwater fishing with intermittent submersions for me.

 

[RKH]

I bought some Ballistol from their web site about a year go. It is a good lube and rust preventive and contains no carcinogens and is bio-degradable. It has many other uses and they sent several pages of info on their product. It was invented by a West German scientist and it is a excellent product but I believe is a wet lube and I am leaning toward dry lube and rust preventive like Tuff Glide. Although I do like the smell of the Ballistol better and the fact it does not have any bad chemicals or additives.
RKH

 

[Buffalohump]

Cool.... I like the fact that you can leave it on the blade when prepping food./

I'd like to see that info, if you're able to email it. :thumbup:

If you want a dry lube, I would recommend Tuf-Cloth. Tuf-Glide is more for lubing moving parts etc. They work well together./

Mark

I bought some Ballistol from their web site about a year go. It is a good lube and rust preventive and contains no carcinogens and is bio-degradable. It has many other uses and they sent several pages of info on their product. It was invented by a West German scientist and it is a excellent product but I believe is a wet lube and I am leaning toward dry lube and rust preventive like Tuff Glide. Although I do like the smell of the Ballistol better and the fact it does not have any bad chemicals or additives.
RKH

 

[RKH]

I am sorry I not able to email it. Try looking at their website which is Ballistol.com
RKH

 

[Kevin Jones]

I have used Ballistol and it seems to provide good corrosion protection and stays on for quite a while. I don't care for it for display knives however because it leaves a gummy or sticky residue that attracts dust and dirt.

 

[Bastid]

I really like Camellia oil compared to WD40, gun oil, Renaissance wax and such as it seems to stay on longer, does not get gummy (thus attracting dirt) and gives a very nice sheen (not too dull/not too glossy).

Can be purchased from Blade Gallery. Swordmakers from the far east have been using it for hundreds of years.

Lots of stuff works, but the above is the combination I use also. I really like Ren Wax for natural handle materials as well as steel. .

It is a good idea to give stag, ivory and some woods a good soaking in oil once or twice a year to make sure they do not dry out and start cracking.

Out in the field a little skin oil (via Ed Fowler's suggestion) will help on those overnight trips when it gets a little "dewey" over night.

 

[RKH]

Kevin, your are correct about it collecting dust. I have now decided that dry lubes are best. Especially if that folder is going to be carried in pocket. I like Tuff Glide and Mil-Tec but Mil-Tec is not a rust preventive. I am thinking I might give White Lighting a try and see how it works. If anyone has tried White Lighting I would like to hear what you think about it. Thanks.

RKH