What RC for frame locks?

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Nov 24, 1999
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I'm thinkin of tryin a frame lock now that I have a couple liner locks under my belt. I'm just going to make the whole thing out of O1 this time. Might try to get it coated with something if it turns out good, or just use it as a beater during the winter.
What would be a good RC to go with for the frame though? I figure I'll heat treat both slabs the same.
And also how much do you inlet/thin down the lock bar where it bends? Say for .125" stock, would you want it to be half that?

Thanks
 
You titanium nuts have completely forgotten how to work with steel?
I'm talkin good old O1, you know its what you make blades out of.... ;)
Nobody knows what range I should shoot for to get a nice spring temper that would work for a frame lock?
 
Matt,
Sorry, I missed this one.
I've used 4130 and 420 for framelocks, along with alot of Ti but not 01 on them. I've used it for springs so I'd recommend shooting for high 40s/low 50s but I'm not in the shop so I can't give you a tempering temp.
I don't recall if you have a milling machine or not. If you can mill, cut the inside of the lock down to about .070 (+/-). From the end of the lock, where it hits the blade, I leave it solid for about 3/4" then mill down to .070 or so the rest of the way back to where the split ends. Doing it this way I can create a spring, rather than a bend in the lock. I cut the lock length from 2" to 2.5", depending on the size of the knife.
 
Thank you
That helps alot. I have the tempering curve for O1 stashed somewhere from the last time I bought steel.
I don't have a milling machine, unless you count a dremel in my highly accurate hands ;) Making it more like a spring makes a lot of sense though, I'll keep that in mind when I lay things out, maybe just try to taper the thickness of the lock bar from the inside.That seems like a lot easier way to go than grinding a slot in the outside of the slab and trying to keep it straight and an even depth.

I'll probably switch over to 420 eventually, but since my first attempts usually take multiple attempts, I'm gonna go with the O1 where I can pick up another bar everyday on the way home if need be :eek:

Thanks again
 
Matt,
Something I need to add. When you build the folder, bend the lock and get it in the right place/tension before you heat treat it. I screw the lock side to another piece of steel or the opposite liner with a hole drilled/tap for a small screw, thru it at the lock area, and tighten the screw in to keep tension on the lock during heat treat/quench. If you don't do this, chances are it will straighten back up during the hardening or quench.
 
Thanks
That will save me alot of swearing. Sounds like it might be a good idea to make a template for one side, and drill and tap it for all that kind of stuff and then harden it. Can use it for cutting screws to length, setting the lock etc.
 
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