What set of stones do I need next?

G

GarageBoy

Joined
May 23, 2003
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I already have a full size Spyderco brown and white. I know I need a DMT Coarse for reprofiling. What else should I add?

Is it worth going into India stones and Waterstones?
 
Every sharpening medium can be rewarding, no specific one is needed.

Hard, flat surfaces with sanding belts, sand paper, or lapping film glued to them allow for both the coarsest grinding and finest polishing without the pricetag of a good sized India or waterstone (and you'll always need more than one).
 
In addition to what you have, I also have a DMT Fine stone and several wet/dry grits of sandpaper on a mouse pad. I'm pretty happy with the edge I get from this selection. Thought about getting an extra fine DMT for my Dozier D2 blades, but not really sure it's needed.
 
Take thombrogan's advice and run; don't ever read this forums again. He has given you a cost effective way out and he has warned you in his understated way "...you'll always need more than one". There is no such thing as buying one stone, only "one more". After you acquire a set of stones (for example, waterstones) you will read about "better" brands, or entirely different media such as ceramics or diamonds or... RUN while you have some money left.:D
 
Fair advice from Thombrogan!


Just a question, if I may bud-in for a second? (did not want to start a thread, and since it's mentioned)


Having just picked up a Spyeder Med, I like everything about it,,,even the sound good steel makes on it!

Just wondering what it's made out of? And any special care needed?

And what 'grit' would some call it?

Been using water and have not had to clean it yet, any info?

Thanks in advance!
 
Synthetic sapphire (aluminum oxide) iirc.

You can clean the ceramic with a scotch-brite type pad and powdered cleanser, or a rust eraser amongst other methods.
 
GarageBoy said:
I already have a full size Spyderco brown and white. I know I need a DMT Coarse for reprofiling. What else should I add?

Is it worth going into India stones and Waterstones?
Click to expand...

For rprofiling Not Coarse, not Extra Coarse but it should be EXTRA EXTER COARSE 120 MESH 120 Microns - DMT D8XX.

After this I use DMT Coarse (45 microns) and then Extra Fine (9 Microns). If you already have Spyderco Medium (20 microns) and Fine (6 Microns) it is covered and you do not need Extra Fine DMT (DMT is bit faster I think).

And for high polish - Green Rouge (CrO).

Thanks, Vassili.
 
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Okay
so
XX Coarse
Coarse
Spydie Medium
Spydie Fine
Spydie X Fine sound like a plan? or should I go with the DMT Red after the Blue?
 
I see no need for any stone or paper below 300 grit.
I have various diamond stones, India, Arkansas, ceramic, and ruby stones.
I seldom use anything other than the India followed by 4/0 emery.
Though I do any REBEVELING (dammit!) on a belt sander or with a file, I can't imagine using 120 grit cloth or stones to REBEVEL an edge. The heavier grits do not cut cleanly at all. 320 grit wet/dry is about as coarse as I need.
Bill
 
GarageBoy said:
Okay
so
XX Coarse
Coarse
Spydie Medium
Spydie Fine
Spydie X Fine sound like a plan? or should I go with the DMT Red after the Blue?
Click to expand...

Blue DMT is Coarse 45 Microns
Red DMT is Fine 25 Microns
Yellow DMT is Extra Fine 9 Microns

IMHO you may skip Red and go with Yellow.

Thanks, Vassili.

P.S. Silver DMT is Extra Extra Coarse 120 Microns.
 
nozh2002 said:
Yellow DMT is Extra Fine 9 Microns
Click to expand...

XF - Extra Fine is Yellow.

2 Bill DeShivs

Do you have first hand experience with DMT Extra Extra Coarse? I have and it was kind of shocking!

It take me same or less time to form edge with 120 Grit Extra Extra Coarse then on belt grinder.
I am talking about including all preparation, and much less messy, dusty etc. I have more control
during sharpening, I can not overheat edge and damage HT, I can not damage blade by accident
etc.

It took me 15 minutes to take serration out of my CRKT Apache.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
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Vassilli
I have no experience with the coarse DMT. My experience comes from using other gritted abrasives.
Bill
 
DMT 8"x3" XX Coarse
DMT 8"x3" Coarse
Spydie Medium
Spydie Fine
Spydie X Fine

Those are the stones that I have been useing as well and I get a nice edge from them. The only thing that I need is to keep working on my skills. I am going to add a strop to the sharpening suppliles as well.
 
GarageBoy said:
Thanks! Is it too big of a jump between DMT Coarse and Spyderco Medium
Click to expand...
That's a good question, GB. If you're planning to use the Spyderco medium to polish a bevel created with the DMT coarse, I'd say it's a pretty big jump because the medium ceramic cuts so slowly compared to diamond. I rarely polish primary bevels myself, but if I did I'd go with fine or maybe even extra fine diamond after the coarse diamond.

As to what you really "need" that's even harder to say. If I lost all my sharpening equipment and had to start over, the first things I would get are coarse and fine DMT Dia-sharp stones, and some kind of ceramic v-sharpener. With those you can handle probably 98% of your sharpening. But before long I'd probably have a bunch of other stuff, just because that's the way it is with hobbies. :)
 
It's been green as far back as I can remember.

GarageBoy,

Please check out Brent Beach's website, specifically the sharpening stuff. He uses a Norton 100 grit SiC stone, 15 micron SiC lapping film, 5 micron SiC lapping film, and 1 micron AO lapping film to sharpen an array of simple and complex steels to high levels of sharpness. You don't need the tools he's using to get similar edges, but it's a great look at what's happening when you're cutting and sharpening as well as good explanations to resolve apparent contradictions.
 
I have a Sharpmaker with med, fine, and uf rods and DMT XX Coarse, Coarse, and Fine bench stones. Initially I really liked the Sharpmaker, but eventually I found it limiting.

I have since kind of moved on to freehanding on waterstones and now for me there is no going back. Specifically, I'm using a Bester 700, Shapton Pro 1k, 2k, 5k, and Naniwa Superstone 10k. Plus finishing with a loaded and unloaded strop. Of course, I don't use always use them all on an already sharp knife. Usually, I just touch up with the 2k, 5k, 10k and then the strops and frequently will use the 5k and 10k like steels for quick touch ups, again followed by the strops.

I still use the DMTs for reprofiling/repair and flattening the waterstones and the Sharpmaker for serrated edges.

But for most sharpening I'm totally sold on using good waterstones. I just love the tactile feel of the edge as it is worked on the various waterstones and the beautiful very bright mirror polished results. One does not need the Sharpmaker to put micro bevels on an edge.

Unlike the Sharpmaker, the waterstones are very fast and neither the Shaptons nor the Naniwa need to be soaked. Just sprinkled or sprayed with some water and they are immediately ready to go. I find I'm getting my edges quite a bit more refined and sharper on the waterstones, with a heck of lot less time and effort than with the Sharpmaker. It does take a bit more skill, or perhaps it is just a different skill. But armed with theoretical and practical knowledge acquired online, I found it surprisingly easy to get great (i.e., better than Sharpmaker) results right from the start, on the first knife I did on the waterstones, and I'm sure gradually my skills will even further improve.

I'm not saying one can't get great results with the Sharpmaker, but I think there is a significant qualitative improvement in the finish/scratch pattern that can be obtained with Japanese waterstones, especially the higher grit waterstones, and there is something really appealing, to me at least, in being able to intuitively (i.e., not measuring or obsessing about angles) shape the edge I want freehand.

The waterstones were a bit expensive, but for a home sharpener like me, I think they should last for the rest of my life. So I think it was money very well spent. In sum, based on my experience, I highly recommend putting together a kit of DMT XX Coarse and Coarse, plus the waterstones mentioned above (although I'm sure there are several other great waterstones one could choose).
 
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It seems like waterstones are great for polishing, but not for sharpening. So far no one claim whittling hair edge sharpened by waterstone. It seems like side of the edge is ideal and looks perfect under microscope, but edge itself can not whittle hair... Is it some failure in very technology itself? I may be wrong, but it is based on the fact that no one yet claimed whittling hair after waterstones being used...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
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