What Sharpening Jig has the Best Clamps

[MashMaster]

Well that's interesting, this guy definitely saw my 3D printable rotating clamp design that I open sourced a few years back, and based his clamp rotation on that.

In the link you'll see how mine works. Look at the pics, and one of them has a gif of how my clamp rotation rotation works.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4135236

Wow great design.
Do your jaws lock into place due to compression of the plastic fitting, the gif is hard to work out what locks it in other than the weight of the knife and what might be the jaws sitting not the metal pin. A cam shaped pin would would to pull it tight too

Convex sharpening accessory I am surprised every gig out there does not have one (obviously not wicked edge as it would not work without a custom paddle). Maybe one with micro adjustments so you can fine tune the degree of convex edge.

 

[777 Edge]

Thanks for the feedback to summarise and to ensure I got it
-spring steel clamps TSPROF and Hapstone too much flex
-whole milled clamps
-multiple narrow clamps at least two, three might be overkill/redundant

I can see the advantage of the whole milled clamps not having too much spring, the fact the TSProf sells replacement spring steel kinda tells me that system is not made to last. The downside is I guess they act more like tweezers with a pinch only at the tops, I wonder about flat ground knives or even square edge how well it grabs. I can see see multiple narrow clamps probably give you multiple points for distal taper. Had the wicked edge clamp I can see the disadvantage of a single clamp especially with chief knives and flex in the blade.

Are these the two whole milled clamps you are referring to
https://www.gritomatic.com/collecti...s/small-side-clamps-for-hapstone-r2-lite-pair
https://www.gritomatic.com/collecti...additional-clamp-for-hapstone-k1-and-rotate-k

Yep, those are the clamps I am talking about.

If you clamp a large (wide) kitchen knife with a full flat grind in them, they actually follow the flat grind profile very well and clamp securely without any wobble. The other 1 or 2 clamps further forward stop any flex, rotation or little bit of wobble and make it even more secure.

If you sharpen a full flat grind like a Spyderco folder grind (for example), then 2 of these clamps are perfect if you use them the way I do - Fasten 1 clamp nice and deep on the flat part of the tang / ricasso just before the pivot (This is your main clamp point), and the other clamp about an inch or so back from tip of the blade, just barely clamping the spine and far enough back from the tip to allow a 15 DPS sharpening without grinding the clamp (the second clamping position is just for stability and to stop any flex in the tip).

If you use these whole milled clamps this way then you get a very secure, repeatable and perfectly accurate clamping.

 

[777 Edge]

Wow great design.
Do your jaws lock into place due to compression of the plastic fitting, the gif is hard to work out what locks it in other than the weight of the knife and what might be the jaws sitting not the metal pin. A cam shaped pin would would to pull it tight too

Convex sharpening accessory I am surprised every gig out there does not have one (obviously not wicked edge as it would not work without a custom paddle). Maybe one with micro adjustments so you can fine tune the degree of convex edge.

My jaws lock into place in a "cantilever" action with 3 screws onto the knife blade. You open up the screws, then pinch the clamp onto the blade with your fingers and then lightly fasten the front 2 screws. This follows distal taper & grind profile and holds the blade in place. The rear screw is then tightened and it forces the back of the clamp open, securing and firmly clamping the knife into the clamp. I have a rubberised sticker on the inside of the clamps to stop slipping (It is a plastic 3D printed clamp that it can't be tightened as much as metal, so you need the grippy surface of a rubber pad.)

The whole clamp (with knife in place) is then secured into its holder with a screw and wing nut. The holder then pinches the clamp in place securely as the plastic flexes a tiny bit.

Each side of the clamp is a mirror of the other side, so the bottom 2 sharp points slide into a recess inside the clamp holder, while the 2 top points are above the holder and not doing anything until you loosen and rotate the clamp 180 degrees. The previous top 2 points (now the bottom) then slot into the recess of the clamp holder and are then secured again with the holder pinching them as you tighten the wing nut again.

If you download my files, you should be able to view them on your computer as a 3D image that you can rotate around and look at it.

Let me know if it all makes sense!

 

[bucketstove]

Hi
Handle clamps?
img by cbwx34

For "Paint brush"

diy by HeavyHanded

diy by bucketstove

 

[MashMaster]

Handle clamps?
Prefer blade clamp over handle.

 

[MashMaster]

Hi
Handle clamps?
img by cbwx34

For "Paint brush"

Who makes this handle clamp

 

[bucketstove]

Who makes this handle clamp

Hi
Thats Tormek SVM-00 Small Knife Holder

 

[000Robert]

Hi
Thats Tormek SVM-00 Small Knife Holder

I just received my Tormek SVM-00 today. I'm fixing to clamp it up with my leather knife in a little bit.

 

[Gritomatic]

I've found that my other spring-type clamps like the non-milled TSPROF and Hapstone clamps with a small section of spring steel to have too much flex for accurate sharpening.
Whole milled, narrow, and multiple clamps is the way to go in my opinion.

"You don't like cats? You just don't know how to properly cook them"
Burt, spring-type clamps flex only when open. When a clamp is secured with the blade inside, it becomes rigid.
Spring-type clamps and milled clamps have pros and cons, but rigidity is the same.
3 out of 4 the most sophisticated guided sharpeners use spring-type clamps, and only 1 uses milled clamps. If spring-type clamps had flexing these systems were not using them.

Nevertheless, your work is amazing! You are in the epicenter of the technical revolution that already begun and will change the guided sharpener market. "This guy" in the video with $540 3D-printed sharpener called EDGE GADGET is the past. I have ordered a couple of Russian printed sharpeners that completely blew my mind. They started adding high-end features to $40 printed sharpeners! They. print. springs.

 

[777 Edge]

Nevertheless, your work is amazing! You are in the epicenter of the technical revolution that already begun and will change the guided sharpener market.

Thanks Konstantin, that's a nice compliment. I guess that what happens when you get so immersed into 2 combined hobbies and it becomes an obsession.

I hope I can expose more of the world's population to affordably and accurately sharpen their own knives and tools. Maybe that will then lead to more people enjoying it, and then in turn buying more sharpening supplies from awesome online shops like yours! Of everything I have, I still prefer my Hapstone with accessories to anything else, being built like a tank. My sharpener designs are purely meant to expose more of the market, and dragging more people into this hobby / obsession of ours.

Please feel free to add my designs to your website as an alternative for people who want to 3D print my accessories.

 

[Gritomatic]

I want information regarding the sharpening jig clamps for users. If you have not used or tested a jig please do not comment. I am only interested in the jaws/clamp, 2 clamps vs 1 another topics. Why because I am thinking designing my own jig.

I have tested all existing TSProf and Hapstone clamps except Kadet. TSProf prioritizes whole milled clamps because of ease-of-use. Hapstone prioritizes spring-based clamps because of versatility. It's impossible to make a whole-milled clamp capable to work with all blades with high precision. TSProf strategy is simple and profitable. All K03 sharpeners include the clamp compatible with all knives; if a customer asks why his blade plays loose, they sell extra clamps to him. Hapstone targets a category of more educated customers. Clamps with flexible springs and spacer screws are too complicated for most. That's a fact that cannot be ignored if you plan to sell your sharpener. Wholemilled clamps is Keurig coffee maker with one button, spring-type clamps is espresso machine with 20 buttons.

 

[Airborne 1]

I have a older H6 ,that I picked up 2nd hand here with no miles, put the rotating clamps on it and love it .

 

[777 Edge]

I have tested all existing TSProf and Hapstone clamps except Kadet. TSProf prioritizes whole milled clamps because of ease-of-use. Hapstone prioritizes spring-based clamps because of versatility. It's impossible to make a whole-milled clamp capable to work with all blades with high precision. TSProf strategy is simple and profitable. All K03 sharpeners include the clamp compatible with all knives; if a customer asks why his blade plays loose, they sell extra clamps to him. Hapstone targets a category of more educated customers. Clamps with flexible springs and spacer screws are too complicated for most. That's a fact that cannot be ignored if you plan to sell your sharpener. Wholemilled clamps is Keurig coffee maker with one button, spring-type clamps is espresso machine with 20 buttons.

I couldn't agree with you more Konstantin.

The only way to properly have a clamp follow the shape of a blade grind, is with a a 2-piece clamp like my 3D printable one, or with a good quality spring-based clamp.

One of the oldest and good old trusted systems, Lansky, already had it figured out in the late 70's / early 80's with their 2 part clamp...it's been 40 years and many guys still haven't figured out how to even use the Lansky clamp. Many other clamp based systems on the market just do not "cut it" pun intended.

Spring-based clamps, properly used will definitely stop any blade "rotation", it is impossible for the blade to rotate if a spring-based clamp is used properly. Some of the thinner ones definitely do still "flex", not rotate, but flex.

For most general knives and pocket knives that most guys sharpen, I still recommend whole milled clamps for simplicity, as long as there is a flat section (like a small part of the tang just before the handle) to clamp a whole milled clamp onto to stop blade rotation, and a second whole milled clamp closer to the tip to stop blade flexing. Most general use knives fall into this category.

If you had to have a sharpening system with only 1 clamp and you don't want/need anything else, then definitely a good spring-type clamp with some "beef" to it (Like some of the Hapstone clamps) is a good option.

Unfortunately, like you say, most guys don't use them properly even if they have a spring clamp with thicker springs. Then again, most guys just sharpen their knives with a tungsten carbide "V" shaped pull-through cutter....OH THE HORROR!

 

[Gritomatic]

MashMaster, At the end of March, Gritomatic will launch DIY area for hobbyists and custom jig makers. In particular, MANY variations of whole milled clamps. Some clamp designs are intriguing (central with slit). Clamps will be available in two form-factors: KakBritva (the manufacturer of DIY parts) and TSProf K03.

 

[Airborne 1]

@777Edge
Man I was right with ya till the last little bit and then all I heard was a Loud Screeching sound !!

 

[MashMaster]

I have tested all existing TSProf and Hapstone clamps except Kadet. TSProf prioritizes whole milled clamps because of ease-of-use. Hapstone prioritizes spring-based clamps because of versatility. It's impossible to make a whole-milled clamp capable to work with all blades with high precision. TSProf strategy is simple and profitable. All K03 sharpeners include the clamp compatible with all knives; if a customer asks why his blade plays loose, they sell extra clamps to him. Hapstone targets a category of more educated customers. Clamps with flexible springs and spacer screws are too complicated for most. That's a fact that cannot be ignored if you plan to sell your sharpener. Wholemilled clamps is Keurig coffee maker with one button, spring-type clamps is espresso machine with 20 buttons.

Thanks for your feedback.

I noticed TSPROF and Hapstone have both whole milled clamps and spring-based. I guess what worried me a bit about the spring steel clamps was the replacement springs sold. That worries me a bit from a warranty and a longevity point of view, I like heirloom like longevity in products I sell although admittedly I have sold a few cheaper get into the hoppy type products before (I design and sell beer brewing equipment mostly).

I see both TSProf and Hapstone do two clamp sizes basically standard and a thinner small knife fillet knives etc clamp. I do like the ability to change the hinge

Symmetrical hinged clamps screw driven wedge KME or tilting hinged clamps cam driven wicked edge seem to have usability up there and centring. I see TSProf also do a double cone spring, although I think friction differentials with the cones will be this difficult to be as symmetrical as the KME or wicked edge.

So I will not ask you your favourite clamp but what's the easiest to use clamp, best centring clamp and all rounder. If you dont want to take sides I totally understand. You will probably profit from my ignorance soon as I order a few different clamps from you to test.

I am actually looking at a couple jigs one cheap, portable and affordable, the other more top of the line knife nuts (cough cough) forum member type customers.

As for the coffee machine analogy I'm a coffee snob, I also roast my own green beans. Somebody using stale supermarket beans is better off with a POD machine because you cant make silk purse from a sows ear, no matter if you sharpen your $5 big box store kitchen knife on a TSProf it's still not going to have the edge retention of a Japanese white #2 knife. This does not mean that a cheap knife should be purchased and never sharpened and will not benefit from sharpening either. For this a low cost get the job done sharpener there is a market. It does not mean that a high costs sharpener should be over complicated as well. As for the espresso machine I think the real analogy is espresso machine and grinder, I tell people that if they are spending under $1000 on an espresso machine make sure they are spending at least if not more on a quality grinder from there up you spend at least 50% of machine coast on the grinder. They look at me strange and with disbelief. I think a knife sharpening jig is important no doubt but so are quality abrasives/strops etc. It is always a cost performance curve and a point of diminishing marginal returns per dollar spend as well. There is a difference between best value, amazing value and the best quality. As a retailer I can see you really appreciate this is the case and some units are quick single button simple units that get an amazing edge with out a lot of user expertise, others might be able to perform better but only in the right hands. This is always a balancing act and knowing your market, with a quality grinder and fresh beans I can temperature surf a cheapo home espresso machine and pull shots that would put 10K commercial machines with cheap stale coffee and bad barista to shame.

 

[777 Edge]

MashMaster, At the end of March, Gritomatic will launch DIY area for hobbyists and custom jig makers. In particular, MANY variations of whole milled clamps. Some clamp designs are intriguing (central with slit). Clamps will be available in two form-factors: KakBritva (the manufacturer of DIY parts) and TSProf K03.

Some nice intriguing clamps there, especially with the slit. Kind of like 2 narrow clamps closely spaced.

In the video is actually a good example of what I mean by how I use my whole milled clamps. Look at 3:30 in the video where he shows the whole milled clamp having "rotation" of the full flat ground shape of the blade and compare it with what I am about to type:

Now, what I do is move 1 whole milled clamp further back (just before the handle where the tang goes into the handle there is a perfectly flat ricasso part to clamp). I clamp 1 whole milled clamp right in front of the handle, and then I use a second whole milled clamp further forward on the blade, just to stop flexing. If you use whole milled clamps the way I do (with a knife like that) then the back clamp (right in front of the handle) stops any rotation and levels the knife perfectly, and the front clamp stops any flexing.

 

[Gritomatic]

For most general knives and pocket knives that most guys sharpen, I still recommend whole milled clamps for simplicity, as long as there is a flat section (like part of the tang) to clamp a whole milled clamp onto to stop blade rotation, and a second whole milled clamp closer to the tip to stop blade flexing. Most general use knives fall into this category.

I'm experimenting with setups with different whole milled clamps (for example, one flat 7-mm + one FFG 7-degrees). Although one whole milled clamp cannot do all knives, it's possible for multi-clamp configuration.

 

[MashMaster]

MashMaster, At the end of March, Gritomatic will launch DIY area for hobbyists and custom jig makers. In particular, MANY variations of whole milled clamps. Some clamp designs are intriguing (central with slit). Clamps will be available in two form-factors: KakBritva (the manufacturer of DIY parts) and TSProf K03.

I sent you a message via your website with my email address in it. Interested in the KakBritva clamps. The slit clamp is basically two little clamps in one without any twist like you get with two clamps and differential pressure. My Russian is poor (unless you ask about swear words in which case Russians ask where did I learn so many bad works I tell them my ex wife ahahah) but I see they have clamps for different blade thickness but also for various full grind angles

 

[Gritomatic]

I noticed TSPROF and Hapstone have both whole milled clamps and spring-based. I guess what worried me a bit about the spring steel clamps was the replacement springs sold.

As far as know, K03 reinforced springs are alternative springs with increased strength, not replacement parts. TSProf supplies in-warranty parts that can be easily damaged by customers (tightening screws in clamps), lost by customer (small screws in Blitz), or damaged in transit (angle scale). Don't worry about flat springs.

I see TSProf also do a double cone spring, although I think friction differentials with the cones will be this difficult to be as symmetrical as the KME or wicked edge.

Cone clamps are permanently discontinued.

So I will not ask you your favourite clamp but what's the easiest to use clamp, best centring clamp and all rounder. If you dont want to take sides I totally understand.

I have to think about my answer. I Will reply tomorrow.