What sharpening tool for backpacking trips?

scumming mate, I'm gonna get myself a Diafold purely on the back of the amount of people here who rate it, these guys know about this stuff... plus it doesn't cost much so even if you go with the DC4 (none of what I said previously changes now) it might be a good idea to get a Diafold too. Remember the saying bud "Two is one and one is none".

-G
 
The Coarse/Fine DMT grit combo is as close to ideal as any. Probably the most versatile combo I've seen, and great bang-for-the-buck. Whether as a Dia-Fold, or in the form of DMT's 'credit card' sharpeners, this grit combination will get a lot of work done. The Coarse is aggressive enough for major repairs/re-bevelling, and the Fine will leave a great 'bite' in the finished edge.

I also have a DC4, and it's good too. But the C/F DMT would more likely be my first choice as a field sharpener.
 
I like the DC4, & use it on both knives & hatchets. I hold the blade steady, & manipulate the stone to sharpen. I like it best for short/medium blades (including hatchets). Anything over 4 inches long, & I feel more comfortable with a handle.
The DC4 is fine & superfine. If the coarse/medium path appeals, find something else.

Buy something well before your trip, so you can use it a bit. I find I modify my technique for different sharpeners. You will need to get used to it.

You know your going to end up buying more than one type, anyway. The DC4 is quality. So are DMT.
 
I have a small 4"x1.75" combination SiC stone - pretty sure its a Craftsman (Sears) brand, but made in the USA. I take this with me sometimes on multi day trips. Its small enough to hold in one hand like a puck for working on machetes or hatchets, just large enough that it doesn't squirm around if placed flat for doing some knife blades. To top it off it I bring a tiny chunk of white compound and use some of the mineral oil in my fire starting kit (normal use - squirt some on a cotton ball - works as good as vaseline). The compound I rub on any smooth piece of bark or branch for a strop.
 
If I'm backpacking and going for lightweight, I take my Spyderco Goldenstone for touchups and the Spyderco 701 set for more general work. They are small, pack well, and work like a charm. If I'm going base camping (or to Scout summer camp), I almost always take along my Spyderco SharpMaker. In that form factor, nothing beats it.

TedP
 
phillipsted said:
If I'm backpacking and going for lightweight, I take my Spyderco Goldenstone for touchups and the Spyderco 701 set for more general work.
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Lightweight? Hell, I cut the handle off my toothbrush to save weight, and throw away the Joker from my deck of cards. For sharpening on a 5-day backpacking trip, nothing is lighter or easier to pack that a piece of wet/dry sandpaper. Two pieces if you don't mind the extra weight. Sandpaper grits 400 and 800 are more than enough for any job I've found in the woods.


Stitchawl
 
If you go with a diafold, watch this video first if you haven't used one yet, and practice at home on a knife or two. It's a completely different way to sharpen, and it's surprisingly (i.e., frustratingly) hard to hit the bevel correctly:


[youtube]dubB5nIhe6A[/youtube]
 
Magnaminous_G said:
If you go with a diafold, watch this video first if you haven't used one yet, and practice at home on a knife or two. It's a completely different way to sharpen, and it's surprisingly (i.e., frustratingly) hard to hit the bevel correctly:


[youtube]dubB5nIhe6A[/youtube]
Click to expand...

A good line up of portable sharpeners.

It must be optical illusion because I'm seeing ~35* per side on first knife & 45* per side (90* inclusive) on scandi knife:confused:. Those knives can be sharp but won't cut well.
 
bluntcut said:
A good line up of portable sharpeners.

It must be optical illusion because I'm seeing ~35* per side on first knife & 45* per side (90* inclusive) on scandi knife:confused:. Those knives can be sharp but won't cut well.
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No, it's the standard Mora scandi grind. At 03:10 he says that he hits the very edge with light pressure just to establish a sharp apex. He is not hitting the whole primary bevel. This method is just to put a sharp edge on your knife so that you can continue processing that buck or making that shelter. It's for maintenance in the field in a pinch, not for establishing a primary bevel. You can see this when he sharpens the Mora, too. He's not following the entire scandi bevel (although he says that that's what you should do... hence the sharpie). Maybe he got confused and forgot what knife he was talking about.
 
Magnaminous_G said:
No, it's the standard Mora scandi grind. At 03:10 he says that he hits the very edge with light pressure just to establish a sharp apex. He is not hitting the whole primary bevel. This method is just to put a sharp edge on your knife so that you can continue processing that buck or making that shelter. It's for maintenance in the field in a pinch, not for establishing a primary bevel. You can see this when he sharpens the Mora, too. He's not following the entire scandi bevel (although he says that that's what you should do... hence the sharpie). Maybe he got confused and forgot what knife he was talking about.
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Good points but I was referring to the cutting edge angles (apex bevel) which seem more fits for axes.
 
phillipsted said:
If I'm backpacking and going for lightweight, I take my Spyderco Goldenstone for touchups and the Spyderco 701 set for more general work. They are small, pack well, and work like a charm. If I'm going base camping (or to Scout summer camp), I almost always take along my Spyderco SharpMaker. In that form factor, nothing beats it.

TedP
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And the choir shouted loudly and with much enthusiasm>> AMEN!!!l I definitely give the good Brother a HIGH FIVE on that one. Now I would add my old faithful Spyderco "Doublestuff" stone on hikes and I do also keep one in my fishing tackle box along with a set of the 701 Profiles.

I have heard good stuff about the double grit Smith's diamond stone and I've also heard good about Fallkniven's diamond/ceramic stone >> both of which are on my list to get.
 
Magnaminous_G said:
If you go with a diafold, watch this video first if you haven't used one yet, and practice at home on a knife or two. It's a completely different way to sharpen, and it's surprisingly (i.e., frustratingly) hard to hit the bevel correctly: [video snipped from quote]
Click to expand...

That's the method I typically use for sharpening. It's just using the stone more like it's a file than a bench stone. You get the hang of it. I can do it very rapidly with little focus and maintain a proper angle without difficulty at this point.
 
Gasparo said:
Fallkniven DC4 - diamond edge on one side (coarse) and ceramic on the other (fine).
Quality stuff and comes in a leather pouch to keep it in good condition.
Ol' Ray here knows what he's talking about :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4y8u_iJf1M

-G
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Watch knivesandstuff's video on his dc4, its a pos if you ask me, I would think that DMT who has been in the diamond game a long time has the clear advantage. Diafold all the way:thumbup: I should have my Diafold Aligner kit Mon so I have done my research and this seems to be the best bet
 
Thanx for all of the great feedback...... As far as the DMT diafold, what is the main reason in deciding xtra coarse/coarse vs, coarse/fine vs, fine/super fine? I understand a knife being used in the woods doesn't need a razor edge but what is the deciding factor in xtra coarse/coarse vs the coarse/fine diafold?
 
scumming said:
Thanx for all of the great feedback...... As far as the DMT diafold, what is the main reason in deciding xtra coarse/coarse vs, coarse/fine vs, fine/super fine? I understand a knife being used in the woods doesn't need a razor edge but what is the deciding factor in xtra coarse/coarse vs the coarse/fine diafold?
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X is nice to fix major damages or sharpen/fix large blades. C (45microns) is not that far behind X (60microns), so it just takes a little longer for major tasks. I think X/F would be a better combo but too bad no such option. My sharpen progression always jump from X(60microns) to F(25microns) anyway. I changed my mind (from my prev X/C recommendation) to C/F and get E/EE next.
 
scumming said:
Thanx for all of the great feedback...... As far as the DMT diafold, what is the main reason in deciding xtra coarse/coarse vs, coarse/fine vs, fine/super fine? I understand a knife being used in the woods doesn't need a razor edge but what is the deciding factor in xtra coarse/coarse vs the coarse/fine diafold?
Click to expand...

I have a 6" DMT Dia-Sharp in XC, and have never used it. It's the 'flip-side' on a two-sided C/XC hone, and I also have one F/EF. I also have XC diamond hones from Lansky and Gatco, and have almost never used them. They're really most useful if doing some very heavy grinding/reprofiling on bigger, thicker blades (think Ka-bar or a large bowie type knife), where a LOT of steel needs removing. Between my DMT, Lansky and Gatco diamond sets, I've almost never felt the need to use anything beyond the 'coarse' hone for my knives (mostly small-to-large folders in 1095, 420HC, 440A/C, 8Cr13MoV, VG-10, D2, S30V and other steels). With my DMT hones in particular, I use the C/F combo more than anything else, and sometimes my EF 'credit card' and EF/EEF Dia-Fold as well. The Coarse will handle most any repair on small/medium-sized blades, and the Fine will leave an excellent working edge, with some real 'teeth' in it.

Some here on the forum like to use XC or XXC diamond plates for re-surfacing other bench hones (oil stones, waterstones, occasionally even ceramics), and they can be very helpful there.
 
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