What should I look for when shopping for a belt grinder?

S

Sid Post

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Oct 14, 1998
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As the subject says, what should I look for when shopping for a belt grinder? I hear names tossed about but they don't mean much beyond vague brand recognition. I have used a lot of shop tools on the farm but nothing like a belt grinder so I need help to make an informed decision on a pending purchase. I have had a long standing desire to be able to maintain and/or restore a convex edge with a "slack" belt grinder but, don't fully appreciate what that means. I also find myself wishing I had something better to maintain the edge on large knives. I am a little concerned that power tools like this would take away excessive steel with inexperienced hands like mine. So, any words of wisdom you can offer on use would be welcomed too.

What are the natural pricepoints/pricebreaks that define belt grinders for occasional novice use, reasonably good advanced novice and, those built for professional knife makers.

What features do these price classes typically have?

What features are important for my simplistic needs now that would allow me to grow and not outgrow my grinder?

What do I need to know about motors and their controllers?

Any other words of general wisdom would be most welcomed
smile.gif


Thanks!

Stay Sharp,
Sid

p.s. This line of thought was brought to the surface thanks to this thread Where do I find really great sharpening tools for large knives?


[This message has been edited by Sid Post (edited 05-20-2001).]
 
the first pro. machine starts at $400.00 it is made by norman coote. you will need your own motor and pulleys so it will cost about $500 total then there are a few others but we need to know how deep you want to jump in! LOL

------------------
Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
Sid,

If you plan on doing more than just sharpening then buy as much as you can afford. JL Grinder is a very good grinder but does run about 1700 bucks.

if you are just sharpening Id recommend a sears model. They sell a 2 x 42 grinder for around 200 bucks. I used one for 4 years to make knives with so I know it would serve you well as a slack belt sharpener.

If you have any questions email me.

Best Regards,
Arthur D. Washburn
ADW Custom Knives
www.adwcustomknives.com
 
My question was pretty generic to get a feel for what was out there at what pricepoints.

When I look at Norton Diamond Stones to sharpen with at ~$125 a piece or an Edge Pro at ~$250 when decked out, a few hundered for a relatively good belt grinder doesn't seem too bad. To bound the financials, I would expect to spend somewhere around ~$500 for an entry point of decent quality and capability. The upper end would be around $2,000 if I could justify the additional expense. If there was a real need, I could go higher then that by selling off a couple of high end knives that I have in my collection collecting dust at the moment assuming I don't wait a little longer to build up my war chest.

Thanks for your help so far!

Stay Sharp,
Sid

p.s. A website link or two would be much appreciated since I don't know where to locate these grinders right now (google and yahoo aren't proving useful).

[This message has been edited by Sid Post (edited 05-20-2001).]
 
Get the best you can afford, as long as it does not overkill your need. (ie no need for a NASCAR stockcar, if you are just going to pick up the kids from school). It may sound like a joke but it is not.

If you are just honing some edges, I would suggest a Delta 1/3hp 1x42. Not Crapsman (sorry I just think the stuff is junk). Jet also makes a pretty nice one.

If you want to start throwing some steel, and making your own knives. That is a whole new story. You could get by with the above grinder. I did for ten years. But cost does not seem to be too much of a concern so I would say a 2x72 mininum.

Now, how much steel you gonna throw? Upwards of 3-4 knives per year, go with the Coote. 1-5 knives per month, look into the 1 1/2 hp Hardcore or Bader BIII. If you are like me and want to strip all the steel mines at once, you gotta go with a 2hp or even a 3hp. 3hp is a little out of your stated budget. I just got a 2hp BIII VS and could not be happier. Although I have stalled it tapering tangs. The basics run around $1800, fully set up figure $2300.

Decide what you want to do with it. There is a machine that will fit in with your desires.

R.W.Clark
 
Sid-

I think you've gotten pretty decent info here. As was stated, it's all a matter of what you want to do.

It seems rather ambiguous as to whether you want to just use a belt grinder to sharpen knives...or delve into knifemaking.

I think that Rob's grinder would be a very good bet.

You asked what to look for, not just names.

1.) Will the machine in question run smooth, i.e. no wobble or play in the shaft or wheel?

2.) Will said machine track well?

3.) Does it have adequate power? What is adequate? At least 1 hp, I have a 1.5 hp variable speed Burr King and I have NEVER stalled it (RW, are you grinding a hollow first? or just flat grinding it all off?).

4.) Is the paint job pretty?

5.) Will it allow you to grow in mind of things like hollow gringing, flat grinding, small wheel grinding, convex?

6.) Are parts readily available if something does go wrong? And if so, is the company that makes it or sold it to you readily helpful in getting you back on track?

7.) Is there someone near-by you that could show you how their's works and what they do/don't like about it?

If you can find answers to all of those questions you will be off to a good start.

Names don't mean much if you don't know what to look for behind the name.

If you were really going to go all out then the JL, Hard-Core, and Bader BIII seem to be at the top of the pac these days...it's nice to just turn a dial and have the belt move faster or slower.

I will explain what I bought after I asked all of those questions and how it turned out.

I own a Burr King variable speed (no longer available...but the 3 top dogs mentioned are all in line and even improved as far as tool changes).

It runs as true as they come.

It tracks better than any I've seen.

The 1.5 hp variable speed will allow you to hog away at steel or tone it down for delicate work on Ivory and such.

Unfortunately it's a god-awful puke green color.

I have set-ups for hollow grinding, flat grinding, convex, and very smooth small wheel grinding (the variable speed is almost a necessity with small wheels so you don't screw the bearings).

Even though the model 960 is no longer made, John at Tru-Grit has any parts I need and is always happy to help out (it is such a good machine I haven't needed anything though, just small wheels).

No one was close by with one, but anyone I talked to at the time said it was the Cadillac of the machines and because of everything I have listed so far it made it much easier to learn on.

Best of luck
smile.gif

Nick

[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 05-21-2001).]
 
you have got a few pointers here. i have the coote and a hardcore and i would buy them again. also sid i am not really a fan of hollow grinds so when i ordered my hardcore i just got the flat platen with the 2' and 5" wheels and i saved enought to get the 1" small and adapter. if you can spend the money get 1 1/2 variable or larger.

------------------
Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
R.W. Clark

Did you really stall it? Is it 110V? If it is rewire it for 220V. If its already 220V check your outlet with a meter. If all is right, call Dan Johnson at Bader 1-518-753-4456. The pots in the variable speed controller may need to be tweaked for more torque.

Regards,
Eric Shaw

------------------
One Riot, One Ranger
www.shawcustomknives.com
 
Yep, sure did stall the darn thing. Was tapering the tang of one of my 10" camp bowies. I did hollow the tang first. But I really put my hip into my grinding. I have never even had it slow when hogging a profile though.

Never though of tweaking the pots. Thats a really good idea. I will try it and let ya know.

What to know something really sick, Bob Engnath could stop a 3hp dead in its tracks. Bill Herndon says that he can stop one too.

Oh, and its wired down to 110. Wish I could bring it up to 220, but I live in a condo right now and the local codes will not allow 220 outlets
frown.gif
.

R.W.Clark

[This message has been edited by R.W.Clark (edited 05-21-2001).]
 
Thanks everyone! I am considering all your words of wisdom and past experience. Thanks to you, I will be able to make a much better INFORMED choice
smile.gif


My immediate desire is to have something to sharpen with. That is a very short sighted goal of mine. Will I become a professional knife maker in the next year...NO.

I spent my childhood on a farm and part of college in a machine shop. When I have the time, I really enjoy enjoy working with steel. During my college days, I loved working with the Lathe. I found turning a generic piece of stock into a functional & bueatiful piece of turned steel to be very rewarding. As I have grown and my interest in knives has become a passion, the thought of making my own knives is a persistant one. Due to conflicts with my day job and multiple moves to different states the past few years, I have not been able to attend the 2 week ABS school in Texarkana but, some day I will be there heating and beating steel.

The thought of having a good grinder I could use a few hours on the weekend as other commitments allow to creat my own knives is an enticing one. How much could I accomplish with 2 to 5 hours on an average weekend and a few holiday weekends of real progress? So many commitments, so little time ....

I really appreciate all your help and advice.

Stay Sharp,
Sid
 
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