What slipjoint am I looking for?

Starfish

Starfish

Joined
Jun 14, 2001
Messages
1,256
Hi all,

I keep dancing with the idea of getting a slipjoint knife...very tempting! However, I have the problem (like most here) that I can't personally handle the knives that look good in the pictures. For example, I was all set to go to Wally World and pick up an Old Timer Middleman tonight. When I got there, I was underwhelmed by the knife. My biggest issue had to do with the fact that the blades were so small (measured from spine to edge). I looked at the next biggest Old Timer, and the blade widths were fine but the knife overall was pretty huge.

Am I forever doomed to be the Goldilocks of slipjoints (this one is too small...this one is too big...)? I'd like to find a slipjoint with:

-- a decent blade width without large blade lengths (think SAK).
-- non-stainless steel or if stainless, of a better steel than 420HC.
-- natural handle materials (but that is not the most important criteria).
-- under $60

What say you - is there anything out there that fits?

Thanks for the help!

Matthew
 
Well, if you want to handle the knife before you buy, I advise you to find your local independently owned hardware store. It may take a couple, but call around and ask them if they sell pocket knives. Most of the older Ace stores and such kept a display of Case and/or Oldtimer knives for sale, and that's usually a good opportunity to find the pattern you want along with good fit and finish.
Alternatively, there are several excellent online dealers who'd be happy to pick out a knife with excellent fit and finish, and if it happened that you didn't care for the way it felt, they'd likely work a trade with you.
I like Moore Maker a lot and can testify to the quality of their operation, but they only sell their own knives. The folks at New Graham have a great reputation, but I've never ordered from them, so I can't speak about it from personal experience. I'm sure that others can offer more suggestions.

Luck,

James
 
How about the Canoe pattern?
One large blade and one small blade. Both ride on the same spring making the knife that much thinner and pocket friendly.
The main blade is usually a tall spearpoint.
Along the same lines but bigger is a sunfish and even bigger is the elephant toe.

My canoe is in the middle...Queen D2 steel, 3 5/8" closed with bonestag scales. (They also have wood and delrin.)
wallymuk.jpg


And for you Queen fans...
What's different about my canoe?
;)
 
In reading your post, the canoe pattern was the first one that came to my mind....then I saw that EbbTide beat me to it...you get a nice wide spear blade in a compact frame.

I'll second the nomination for the Queen with D2 steel blades. Your only other choice in a canoe pattern from a US company would be Case....they offer it in 420SS or carbon steel.....the only downside is that their canoe has a much thinner blade stock.

Other Queen patterns that you may like are the 2-blade "Gunstock" and the single blade "teardrop" with liner locking blade. Both have fairly wide master blades.

Try Cumberland Knife Works for Queen knives.

I will also second the Moore MAker suggestion....if you like really good old fashioned carbon steel, they are a good choice.
 
what about a Vic Tinker? You can find these at Wallyworld,and you can handle them.I also found a Vic SportsmanII at Walgrens for $10. Something to tide you over until you find something better. Its shorter than the Tinker and would pocket ride a bit better.
 
I know, I know.......Ebbtide's canoe has no paddle....bada, bing... :D

Actually, it looks like maybe you reworked the front bolster, to level/smooth it to your liking, or to fit your hand? Just having a go at your question. ;)

Seriously, I agree with the canoe as a nice choice, based on your criteria, and Queen makes fine knives.....even for MooreMaker. :)

Bill
 
Hi all,

Thanks for the good suggestions. I am taking a good look at the canoe and the gunstock patterns from Queen. I wonder though - is there a good source of information on the history of slipjoints? I am curious about the different patterns, the dates the patterns came into existence and the design rationale (or evolution).

Side note: I stopped by a local knife store today, and happened upon the Victorinox Soldier. Nice looking knife, and so I have purchased my first slipjoint! :)

Question: how will the silver Alox handles hold up in a pocket with keys?

Please keep the suggestions coming,

Matthew
 
I carry one of the Queen Gunstocks on a daily basis. The overall design, style and quality is great. The D2 steel seems to sharpen easily and keep an edge for a good long time. I also especially like the half stops on the blades as an added safety feature. I carry it in one of the William Henry clip sheaths.
 
Seahorse (aka Rogers) whittlers have a pretty thick main blade that's not too long, typically wharncliffe. Sorry that I can't recommend a brand. Not up on production knives.
 
Fill me in on that beaut of a hatchet!

As for the question - a Barlow is always nice. The Original SJ.

Jeremy
 
Why not one of the Queen D2 working knives? You can get them in carved stag bone, or cocobolo wood?

D2 while not stainless has enough chrome to be "almost stainless". These knives will last you a lifetime!!!

I just purchased some gunstocks myself in the carved stag bone, very impressive!!

http://store.knifecenter.com/pgi-CustomListProducts?Queen Products,2,16,=,que

http://www.eknifeworks.com/webapp/e...earchText=queen&list=50&range=1&order=Default

http://www.cumberlandknifeworks.com/catalog.htm
 
rev_jch said:
Why not one of the Queen D2 working knives? You can get them in carved stag bone, or cocobolo wood?

D2 while not stainless has enough chrome to be "almost stainless". These knives will last you a lifetime!!!

I just purchased some gunstocks myself in the carved stag bone, very impressive!!

http://store.knifecenter.com/pgi-CustomListProducts?Queen Products,2,16,=,que

http://www.eknifeworks.com/webapp/e...earchText=queen&list=50&range=1&order=Default

http://www.cumberlandknifeworks.com/catalog.htm
Click to expand...

Queen is a pretty strong contender...I was all set to buy a Gunstock pattern as well as the Sodbuster pattern, but I've been distracted by the wealth of slipjoints out there. I'm thinking about a Copperhead in stag now, as well as perhaps a whittler, and maybe a large Congress.....and now, even the skinny blades are looking pretty good (which was the incentive for this thread to begin with!) :rolleyes:

Matthew
 
One at a time my friend! You get to liking to many at one time (Im guilty too!) than you will not be able to decide what you want!!! ;)

Go with the gunstock you will not be dissapointed.

Look at it this way the D2 queens will outlast most of the others out there!!!!
 
Starfish,
The sharp edge is 3 5/16"
The 'height' of the blade is around 5/8"
Hope that helps.
 
Ebbtide said:
Starfish,
The sharp edge is 3 5/16"
The 'height' of the blade is around 5/8"
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

Hi Ebbtide,

Thanks for replying to my question. Yes it does help....sort of :confused:

I say "sort of" since I have been informed that the Queen Gunstock pattern, which has similar closed dimensions, has a primary blade length of around 2 1/2".

Could someone who owns the Gunstock pattern check the blade length on the primary blade?

Thanks,

Matthew
 
The bolster to tip length of the primary blade of my Queen Gunstock is just a hair under 2 7/8" (actually 2 27/32") and Ebbtide's figure of 5/8" for the width is accurate. The pen blade is just shy of 2 1/8". Great knife for the price.
 
Ditto on the Barlow suggestion, I have a Queen#22, handled in winterbottom bone that IMHO is one of the most attractive, and usable slips out there. Just my two cents.
 
Ebbtide said:
My canoe is in the middle...Queen D2 steel, 3 5/8" closed with bonestag scales. (They also have wood and delrin.)
wallymuk.jpg


And for you Queen fans...
What's different about my canoe?
;)
Click to expand...

I know, it's an old thread. I just have to say that this picture sold me on a Queen Canoe. It looks great in there! Looks like you polished off the blade etch, I may have to do that if it looks that nice.
 
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