What steel should I use?

E

Eric M

Joined
Apr 10, 2001
Messages
9
I am working on a new knife design, I've never bought steel before, just used scrap metal so I thought I should get some advice.

I would like a steel that is reasonably priced, so no super alloys. I need a steel that holds a really good edge, and is relatively rust resistant. I would also like a blade that is tough enough to stand up to some prying and will not get scratched up easily with hard use. I will be using a modified spear point design, and the dimensions will be, overall 10", Blade 5.5"x1.25"x.16". I will be grinding the blade not forging.

D-2 looks like the best candidate, from what I've heard. Does that sound right? What other suggestions does anyone have? Thank you for your advice.

 
Eric
Welcome to the forums.
The problem with air hardening steel (D2,ATS-34,440C,BG-42,etc.) is that they don't make good prybars. If you want a tough blade use 5160 or 52100 and diferentually harden it.
As far as scratches go there a fact of life. Do a satin finish of about 600 grit and do not buff. This finish tends to "hide" sctatches better than a polished finish.
Will you be forging or stock removal??
Hows life in the gap.
Good to hear from anouther Canuck.

------------------
Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html

[This message has been edited by R Dockrell (edited 04-12-2001).]
 
Hi Robert, thanks for the welcome, I just got a computer and I'm spending way too much time sifting through the masses of information. Life here is cold and windy as per usual, lots of old people too.

I don't have room for a forge so it's strictly stock removal for me right now. I really wanted to use 52100 and 5160 sounds really good too. Only problem is that this is supposed to be a really low maintenance knife and they 'll rust if not taken care of, c'est la vie.

I think that the satin finish is definitely the way to go, thanks for the tip.
 
I'm going to have to send it away for heat treating, I don't have a shop to work in.

I might try 440C considering the recommendation. But, honestly I don't know what steel to use, I've asked 20 people and had 20 different answers.

Does any one have any information on 420V? Thanks for the help everyone.
 
Welcome to BFC, Eric.
CPM-420V is a wonderful stainless blade steel, but it's rather expensive and pretty much belongs in your "super alloy" category. Note that Crucible has recently renamed this steel "S90V".

If stainless properties are that important to you, you may want to consider good old fashioned ATS-34. While this steel is not normally known for its toughness, much has been made recently of the performance that Strider Knives has been able to deliver in their hard use knives using this steel. You can learn more about their blades by visiting their forum in the "Makers/Mfgrs" section here at BFC, or by visiting their Website:

http://www.striderknives.com/

The real secret is, of course, in the heat treat, and Strider has all their blades treated by Paul Bos. Several prominent custom makers such as Jerry Hossom often employ the services of Mr. Bos as well, and have reported similar results. Just one more thing to consider. Good luck.
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Semper Fi

-Bill

[This message has been edited by Bronco (edited 04-13-2001).]
 
I will advise ATS-34 as well. I use it for most of my knives, and have been very happy with it in all respects.

I think you should make the knife out of ATS and pack a crow-bar.
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No knife, even if it's made from differentially hardened 5160 is ever made with the intention of a good pry-bar...or a screw driver. Two of the most common misuses that break knives.

You can get ahold of ATS-34 from any knife-supply catalog, or order it from admiral steel:

http://www.admiralsteel.com

I have Paul Bos heat-treat my blades as well.

Nick
 
Eric,
Heck, try 'em all! Why not??? See what you like best. D-2, 440C or ATS34.

C Wilkins

 
welcome eric, as far as the steel questions go it's worse that you thought! ask twenty makers and get more than twenty anwsers lol

------------------
Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
Ats-34 is very flexable except for the very tip after heat-treat. Snap the tip off when it comes back and regrind. Grind it a little thick and have Paul Bos temper it to about 59 instead of the usual 60-61. It will take a bunch of abuse but have a small trade-off in edge holding. I have had a couple returned to have the hammer marks taken out of the spine but the edges were still perfect. But thats a good idea packing a crow bar. Bruce B
 
Eric
George as usual is right. 440C makes a fine blade. I use it in about 75% of my knives. And the idea of carrying a small prybar isn't a bad one. Never use a knife to pry unless you don't mind breaking it.
Now on your problem of steel. Unless you have a H.O.T. or anouther steel source in your area ordering one small peice from a supplier or Admiral in the US will be very pricy. Freight and tax will be more than the price of the steel alone. But not all is lost. I have in my steel bin a 10 1/2 inch long peice of 1 1/2 by 5/32 440C . But remember all knife steels will rust if abused, stainless does not mean rust proof.
If your interested drop me a line.

------------------
Robert
Flat Land Knife Works
rdblad@telusplanet.net
http://members.tripod.com/knifeworks/index.html
 
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