What steel to buy on a Benchmade

[orthogonal1]

For my $0.02, I'll support Mastiff.

The Benchmade Osborne Gaucho in CPM M4 has grown on me. I was a little apprehensive due to the blade design, but it has proven to be a winner in my book for EDC. And, the current price is a steal (pun).

As to Benchmade's other steels, I prefer M2 (natch), then 154cm, then D2, then 440C.

 

[Gator97]

I'd buy M4 blade and then ask Phil Wilson to reharden it to the max, that is if he does it.

I've been using rehardened M2 blade for 3 weeks not and the edge holding compared to what it was(59HRC) is simply outstanding. Today the included edge is ~22-24 deg. and back then used to be ~40 deg.

 

[The Mastiff]

Gator, Since you started that thread I've been dying to see what S110V can really do at full hardness. How's that turning out? Joe

 

[Gator97]

For now the 110V blade(with second M2 blade) is at Richard J's place, getting satin finished. According to his it's really difficult to work with. So, that definitely raises my hopes and expectations

M2 blade that I have now is 64.5 HRC and that one performs very well. Although I've spent 8 hours with sandpaper tryign to clean it up and frankly it still looks crappy.

I'll try to post some micrographs this weekend. I've tested the thinned down edge on various materials including carboard, wood, copper and aluminum wiring. Not a single dent or a chip, and that's the edge that is almost twice as thin compared to the original.

 

[The Mastiff]

M2 blade that I have now is 64.5 HRC and that one performs very well. Although I've spent 8 hours with sandpaper tryign to clean it up and frankly it still looks crappy.

Fully hardened M2 is a great cutting steel. Some of my ugliest knives are my best cutters though. I've done the sandpaper thing too. As long as it cuts.

Looking forward to hearing more as these projects continue! Joe

 

[skillgannon]

I love the look of the reverse tanto, and I find that that blade shape is easy for me to sharpin. I also like the heavy duty tip. So d2 and s30v seem like the two best steels for that blade. If there are better ones that blade shape let me know.

I have been looking at some of the 960's and might be able to talk my self into one they are nice and I like the handle better. I don't care if its stainless or not, and I use a Lansky diomond for a putting an edge on with, then a hard AK stone to get it sharp. So harder is better for me. I take my knife to work with me and it may cut cardboard and plastic rope fiberglass fire blanket and if I am working in my shop its going to be cutting and scraping a lot of hardwood. I used to sharpen twice a week or so but I don't have time for that any more so I want a blade that will hold and edge as long a possible.

I would like to know more about reharding I didn't know you could have that done. If I was going to do that would it chang the steel that I look for?

 

[The Mastiff]

So d2 and s30v seem like the two best steels for that blade. If there are better ones that blade shape let me know.

Yes, look at the Osborne Gaucho here: http://www.knifeworks.com/benchmadeosborneaxislockcpmm4bkcoatedbladealuminumhandleplainedgeknifeworksexclusive.aspx

This model is exclusive to this knife shop in plain edge. There were only 300 made. I don't think you would need to reharden these unless you were really looking for absolute maximum performance. It's already RC 60-62, which is plenty hard enough. It already outperforms the stainless steels (154cm& S30V) , and D2, and sharpens easier IMO. Joe

 

[skillgannon]

Thanks I bought it. How much angle can I put on the blade. I have been using twenty degrees on my mini-grip but it don't hold up to well. Is that gonna be the best all around angle or will it hold up well with say seventeen?

Thank for the help everyone.

 

[The Mastiff]

Congratulations, and great choice. Remember it's not stainless. I use a silicone cloth I bought at wal mart in the sporting goods section to wipe it down occasionally. Clean it off first if you have been cutting something acidic . I've seen no rust at all. ( I'm talking about the edge as the blade is coated)

I have been using twenty degrees on my mini-grip but it don't hold up to well. Is that gonna be the best all around angle or will it hold up well with say seventeen?

Is that twenty degrees on each side like a Lansky set, or inclusive? It'll take any setting on the lansky, and then some. With this steel 25 to 30 degrees inclusive is possible, provided you're not really using it severely. ( twisting the steel in a cut is what typically gets blades damaged.)

30 degrees inclusive is fine for all around use. It probably is 40 degrees or more from the factory. You can use whatever is preferable to you as this is a pretty tough steel.

Good luck, and let us know how it works out for you. You might want to take it right out of the box, strop it and see if it isn't sharp enough the way it is. This stuff strops up really nicely. It just loves to get sharp. Joe